hello,i have a rtv kubota with a 3 cylinder diesel engine,,,,its driving me crazy,when i attempt to start it,i preheat the glow plugs and roll it,it then starts,but,only more a fraction of a second,then,shuts down,then,i need to crank it for a while before it starts,,,,i just installed a new pick up pump,because the old one was not working at all,,, i cleaned the fuel tank out,and installed a new filter,,,,,,the glow plugs are all working,i suspect fuel "drop down" ,i was told there was a one way valve in the lift pump,which prevents fuel from draining back down into the tank,but,i highly doubt if this pump is sophiscated enough to have a valve,or,maybe an air leak in the low pressure side of the system from the tank to the high pressure injection pump,,,,,,can anybody give me advice??? thanks so much in advance
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KUBOTA RTV1100 DIESEL START AND STALL PROBLEM
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Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
Sounds like a lack of fuel, maybe not completely bleed or maybe sucking air... I ditched the manual lift pump on my JD2030 and went with a electric lift pump from our 6.5 diesels, instant fuel feed..
I don't know your tractor so this may not help you much...
I don't know your tractor so this may not help you much...
thanks so much,,, im not well versed on diesel engines,let me ask you a question,,,, if someone replaces a fuel filter and or runs a unit out of fuel,after finally getting the engine running for a period of time,is it possible that there could still be air in the system? or,after running it for a pretty long period of time, would it work its self out?????
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Welcome to the stop...
Did you bleed all the lines from the IP to the injectors?
Did you bleed all the lines from the IP to the injectors?
no,i did not,when i finished installing the new fuel filter,i cracked the line leading from the fuel tank to the injector pump ,and used the "tickler" and pumped until i had fuel,then,tightened the line,i did not bleed the high pressure side from the high pressure pump to the injectors,i though the air in that part would eventually work itself out???
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
On my Cummins I always have to crack the lines at the injectors to get it running after filter service, manual priming only goes so far just a thought of something to try.
Twisted Steel Performance
Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
Yep, you have air in the system, if it's a clutch tranny, may be easier to have someone pull you, with the tranny in a higher gear that will spin the motor faster, if you can reach the injectors from the seat while being pulled you could loosen the lines , you will know when it's running on it's own... might save the battery and starter...
Will L.
Well-Known Member
I worked on several of the older 3cyl units many moons ago.
Add a one way valve as close to the filter inlet as possible. Different application determines where this can be.
loosen the 3 injector nuts that connect the lines to the injector and give a little wiggle to make sure they are separate.
Crank until you get fuel out all 3 lines, tighten one at a time while cranking if possible and it should star
(Add a battery charger if needed)
If it has hard time starting after that, double check your filter is sealed properly- that is a point it can draw air in.
post pics if you can of the injector pump and injectors.
Add a one way valve as close to the filter inlet as possible. Different application determines where this can be.
loosen the 3 injector nuts that connect the lines to the injector and give a little wiggle to make sure they are separate.
Crank until you get fuel out all 3 lines, tighten one at a time while cranking if possible and it should star
(Add a battery charger if needed)
If it has hard time starting after that, double check your filter is sealed properly- that is a point it can draw air in.
post pics if you can of the injector pump and injectors.
will,this unit has a inline filter,,,,are you saying install the one way valve BEFORE the filter? and, where does one purchase a one way valve? it surely sounds like a great idea,in case the fuel is draining back down,,,,,,but,IF the fuel is draining back down,doesnt that mean that somewhere between the fuel tank and the pickup pump,there has to be an air leak? as far as pics,the machine is loaded with wood presently,i cannot get a pic,
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
do a search for inline check valve on EBAY, Amazon, etc lots of them available
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Not all filters for them are sealed inline units. If yours is, check hose clamps.
yuppers, amazon type places make it easy. Get a low pressure one, you just want to fight gravity is all so 1 or 2 psi is plenty.
yuppers, amazon type places make it easy. Get a low pressure one, you just want to fight gravity is all so 1 or 2 psi is plenty.
good morning will,,,,,i need more advice from you concerning my 3 cylinder kubotas start problem,,,,the first question is: when i look at the inline fuel filter,its completely full of fuel,except for a very small pocket at the very top of it,,,,,,,should the filter be COMPLETELY full? also,,,,,im trying to learn about the fuel lines and air leaks,,,,,,,,second question: if there would be a minute air leak in one of the rubber lines (return lines) from the injectors back down to the tank,would that coz a problem? or,is that after the fact??? thanks for any help you can give me,,,,,
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
At the risk of chasing away a new member...
Might consider searching a bit on tractor forums. Reasoning is that this engine is likely controlled by electronics and chances are just as likely that a sensor is either bad, or complaining aobut something and shutting the motor back down. By searching in forums where others share this motor, getting focused responses is more likely as opposed to the general responses here.
Based on the original description, my tractor does this on occasion when the hydraulics pressure sensor is not online during the preglow / start cycle. Second crank is longer and the tractor starts. But, mine is older and most likely a much simpler system than your RTV. Point is, check with folks whom have the same setup even if in a different application. Once you get it figured out, please post back here as we always love to learn something new
Might consider searching a bit on tractor forums. Reasoning is that this engine is likely controlled by electronics and chances are just as likely that a sensor is either bad, or complaining aobut something and shutting the motor back down. By searching in forums where others share this motor, getting focused responses is more likely as opposed to the general responses here.
Based on the original description, my tractor does this on occasion when the hydraulics pressure sensor is not online during the preglow / start cycle. Second crank is longer and the tractor starts. But, mine is older and most likely a much simpler system than your RTV. Point is, check with folks whom have the same setup even if in a different application. Once you get it figured out, please post back here as we always love to learn something new
you may be correct,but,in my case,i have an older machine,2008,and,i would hope not too many electronic controls usedAt the risk of chasing away a new member...
Might consider searching a bit on tractor forums. Reasoning is that this engine is likely controlled by electronics and chances are just as likely that a sensor is either bad, or complaining aobut something and shutting the motor back down. By searching in forums where others share this motor, getting focused responses is more likely as opposed to the general responses here.
Based on the original description, my tractor does this on occasion when the hydraulics pressure sensor is not online during the preglow / start cycle. Second crank is longer and the tractor starts. But, mine is older and most likely a much simpler system than your RTV. Point is, check with folks whom have the same setup even if in a different application. Once you get it figured out, please post back here as we always love to learn something new
JayTheCPA
Well-Known Member
Mine is older than that No idea why the analog hydraulic sensor in mine sometimes does not register during the start cycle, but it happens.
Do not know if '08s are electronically controlled or not. From a bulletin that I found, suspect not. Generally, the way to tell is whether the throttle attaches to the fuel system by a cable, or to a computer by wires. Either way, the original description indicates that the motor has some sort of safeguards that will allow it to start, but not continue to run if certain components do not register either a signal or minimum voltage.
Might want to check fuses and electric couplings. If there is a warning light that used to illuminate during the start cycle, but now does not, my vote is to focus on that underlying system (presuming the bulb is still good). For example, I know when my tractor is going to stall on a cold-start as the hydraulic pressure light does not illuminate during the pre-glow cycle. Sure enough, crank the starter, motor fires, and then immediately dies. Go through the start cycle a second time, all lights illuminate this time (and dim when the glows energize), the starter cranks a few seconds longer than normal, and the motor runs.
Would also look for the reverse light indication of one remaining 'On' for the brief period of when the motor starts. This would indicate that the safeguard system is doing its job by keeping the motor from hurting itself. Or, that the sensor has failed.
Still feel that the best bet is to get with a group of other owners to see if any of them have experienced this. Given the cross-use of motors, tractor owners are probably more common than RTV owners.
No idea why the analog hydraulic sensor in mine sometimes does not register during the start cycle, but it happens.Do not know if '08s are electronically controlled or not. From a bulletin that I found, suspect not. Generally, the way to tell is whether the throttle attaches to the fuel system by a cable, or to a computer by wires. Either way, the original description indicates that the motor has some sort of safeguards that will allow it to start, but not continue to run if certain components do not register either a signal or minimum voltage.
Might want to check fuses and electric couplings. If there is a warning light that used to illuminate during the start cycle, but now does not, my vote is to focus on that underlying system (presuming the bulb is still good). For example, I know when my tractor is going to stall on a cold-start as the hydraulic pressure light does not illuminate during the pre-glow cycle. Sure enough, crank the starter, motor fires, and then immediately dies. Go through the start cycle a second time, all lights illuminate this time (and dim when the glows energize), the starter cranks a few seconds longer than normal, and the motor runs.
Would also look for the reverse light indication of one remaining 'On' for the brief period of when the motor starts. This would indicate that the safeguard system is doing its job by keeping the motor from hurting itself. Or, that the sensor has failed.
Still feel that the best bet is to get with a group of other owners to see if any of them have experienced this. Given the cross-use of motors, tractor owners are probably more common than RTV owners.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
A trapped air bubble may be ok, it just didn’t purge. But if you see small bubbles coming into the filter a d building up unitl they got through - that is an air intrusion. Take note if the fuel is draining back to the tank in the supply line- this would be bad and the cause.
return fuel lines generally (not always) need to be submerged in the fuel tank. An open return line can cause misfiring, rough idle, and hard starts on some diesels. It is rare but happens- idk on this engine if that is the case.
return fuel lines generally (not always) need to be submerged in the fuel tank. An open return line can cause misfiring, rough idle, and hard starts on some diesels. It is rare but happens- idk on this engine if that is the case.
thanks so much will,,,,,woud i see small bubbles in the transparent fuel filter WHILE ENGINE IS RUNNING? i guess the best way would be to get some transparent fuel line and put on, from the tank to the high pressure pump,and let it run,and sit overnight,to see if i have bubbles or drainback???
ak diesel driver
6.5 driver
You should see the bubbles thru the clear filter but mainly when it is running. Some can be really tiny