• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

IP timing

bison

Well-Known Member
Messages
5,701
Reaction score
144
Location
Near Peace River-Alberta
I'm a little rusty, need some help.
I just replaced the IP on my 98 with ESO straight up, Engine fired up right away so the IP was within perimeters
Initial timing on the AE scantool told me actual and desired timing was 12.
BTDC was 0.35.
I moved the IP to pass side 3 times to a total of 6 mm by now and Act and des timing has moved very little with now 11.1 and TDC is 1.39 but AE don't tell me if it is + or - yes i did relearn with KOKO every time, don't really know wether it took though,temp was at 180.
I try to get the timing to 8.5 actual and TDC to 1.5 ish but i can't turn that damm IP any further than i got it.
Engine seems to run fine.
Kojo ECM

What you say?
 
If you are trying to advance the pump/ timing then you need to move towards the driver side of the truck.
 
I think the cable that supports the 6.5 is up to 122. I am trading my cable in for a can bus obd2 one, but concerned it won't work on the 6.5. I have read threads on here to that effect. Carcode is great tool for the money. Oh yeah and you will need a windows 7 or lower laptop as it is not supported by win 8. That was PIA to get old laptop working.
 
I found out today that AE seems to need periodic updates to keep working OK.
I have used this scan tool only once before since i bought it 5 years ago, even then it was not working quite properly and apparently it needed an update right off the bat).( was free for a year,..nobody told me that back then):nonod:
Now they want $75 to upgrade it!:WTF:
NICE!!!:rolleyes5:

Just like the G-damn Gubmint,..always with both hands in your pocket :mad2:
 
Anyway, i managed to get the update for free but it did not change much to the program other then i can read real time tdco value which stands at -2.46 which is way out what it should be, no amount of IP movement and relearn attempt either with KOKO or with the AE can't knock it back to within specs.
It might be cause i can't get the engine temp to go over 176 F in this subzero weather.
Actual timing is at 6.5,. desired stands at 11.
I have now a tdc offset code that even when deleted returns every time i turn the key on.

What do you say
 
in order to get the TDCO to work right your going to have to move the pump so it is retarded and clear the codes with the engine off so that when you start it it doesn't automatically come on again. if that doesn't work try disconnecting the batts for awhile. 176* should be fine IIRC minimum is 170* and 180* is recommended to be sure you account for gauges being off.
 
The TDCO offset code will remain until you do a relearn and get it within spec. Your going to need a scan tool capable of initiating the TDC offset to get it to go through at this point. I ran into this onece before with the KOKO method. Once it goes outside the accepteable -2.02 it will set an internal fault which is your TDC offset code. And you cannot initiate teh KOKO method with a code present. Your going to have to put some cardboard in front of your radiator and get it up to at least 170 degrees, and use a scan to tool to initiate the TDC relearn.
 
The TDCO offset code will remain until you do a relearn and get it within spec. Your going to need a scan tool capable of initiating the TDC offset to get it to go through at this point. I ran into this onece before with the KOKO method. Once it goes outside the accepteable -2.02 it will set an internal fault which is your TDC offset code. And you cannot initiate teh KOKO method with a code present. Your going to have to put some cardboard in front of your radiator and get it up to at least 170 degrees, and use a scan to tool to initiate the TDC relearn.
I have used the scan tool to initiate TDC but the engine has to be running and up to temps to do that and then the code pops back up and relearn does not happen .
When i use KOKO after deleting the code first, it takes a while to get the temp back up and the code returns before the temp is back to 170 and again relearn does not happen
 
If the cardboard doesn't do it by itself for raising the temp, try hose pinch of pliers.

I would think for you in the cold temps all the time installing a globe valve inline of the top radiator hose would be a good thing. Raise temp up to 190 all the time by restricting coolant flow. For better fuel efficiency and better heater. Winter hits and close the valve to setting "x". Temp goes up and open the valve all the way.
 
Put in a clothes dryer flapper on the outside Of a wall and hook up a piece of the metal flexible drier hose to it. It collapses out of the way when not in use. Use 4"-6" adapter on the end of the hose to connect to the tailpipe or stack. $30 for the kit and adapter.
 
I can't even get the engine temp to read 180 on the scanner with the truck running in the shop,exhaust out under the door, card board blocking the rad completely and both block heaters plugged in .178 F is as hot as it gets. (i have 180 degree T-stats in there to help keep the temps down when pulling heavy).

Anyway, i can't get that effen code to disappear for 2 seconds, as soon as i delete it it is back.:WTF:
I put the IP back to base setting with no result, it starts and runs fine but...
I disconnected the batts and called it a day.

I do still have the stock ECM for this truck, i might stick that back in tomorrow( at least it has no codes present , that KOJO tune i put in last summer was doing dick all for extra ponies anyway and it kept giving me high boost codes, was a waste of money :rolleyes5:
 
Back
Top