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Improving MPG

First thing I'd do would be to switch all the fluids to synthetic (I prefer Amsoil). Less resistance = less fuel burned.

I would also run some sort of additive every tank, I prefer PowerService because of the universal availability in my area, Silver bottle April-Oct, white Nov-March. You never know quite what's going into your tank anymore...

Other than that, I really don't know about the new engines, as there's sooooo much emissions crap to deal with, I have no idea what works and what won't void a warranty...
 
Have already switched to synthetic and have started with the fuel treatment (live in southern California so temp is about the same).
 
I'm averaging around 13.5 by my excel mileage sheet.

Really, I'm not sure we have anything to work with right now.. most are claiming gains by removing the emissions equipment, but in turn your warranty is probably voided.

I'm running a H&S Mini Maxx on the wild setting with emission equipment still on and I can't tell a mileage gain.
 
The emissions crap is killing the mileage. You pretty much figure that the truck is dumping 2 gallons or so of every tank straight into the DPF. Might as well throw it in the fricking trash.

There's a reason we're not ever gonna trade the 05 in, and I might start looking for a NICE low-mile 07 Classic soon...
 
I don't know much about the Dmax. What Tstat temps do ya'll have. In the 6.5 I went from a 180* to 195* and gained a solid 3MPG.
 
I'm pretty consistant at 17-18 in warm weather and 16 in winter. 90% highway. I could get more but then I wouldn't like the ride or not getting where I wanted to be in a reasonable amount of time.
 
We average 15 with our 05, but there's always a ton of idling and short trips (2-10 miles then shut off) on that. I got 20.5 one day on a day-trip with my buddy.
 
I think my MOSTLY city driving is giving you guys a bad impression...Now, I still don't think it'll break much over 20 on the highway (my LBZ did over 22 one time). But, I think I can get a solid 18-19 on a mostly highway trip.
 
I don't know much about the Dmax. What Tstat temps do ya'll have. In the 6.5 I went from a 180* to 195* and gained a solid 3MPG.

The DMAX cooling system wouldn't work the best with a 190 t-stat. It already uses a dual stat design with one being a 180 and the other being a 185. They are already designed to hold the engine at roughly 185 under most all driving conditions due to how slowly they open. The 180 goes full open at about the same time the 185 does which is roughly 212 degrees VS a standard 195 6.5 stat begins to open at 195 and will hit full open at about 208. Also the 185 stat in a DMAX has a blocker on it that closes off the very large bypass tube when it fully opens. You would have to get a stat designed to open at a higher temp, but still be fully open by 215 or so to go any hotter on the stats as teh fan clutch should begin to kick in around 225 or so depending on speed and outside air temp.

We run a 205* temp on most days Leroy unless it's cold out.

The factory guage is VERY misleading to say the least. I know my stock 95 guage isn't the best either, but it is MUCH closer to actual temp than the 01 cluster was. I had the stock 01 cluster hooked up, my stock 95 guage cluster hooked up to it's sender, and also my V2 and watched the actual VS displayed of all 3. If GM would have put 100 at the bottom instead of 160(which was only done to fool diesel owners into thinking there engine was warm when it wasn't), the stock 95 guage was almost dead on all the way up to about 190 which was all I could get it up to not towing. The DMAX cluster went to about 190-200 at anything over 160, and at 100 it was reading about 160 or so.
 
I understand the gauge is not always accurate Ferm but 205* IS the target operating temp on the LLY and LBZ to my knowledge and that's what both of mine have generally run. And yeah, I know the 160 bottom trick was a scam on the gauge. When you live in my type of climate it doesn't take long to realize it's far lower than 160* at idle in -10* or so weather.
 
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