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Hobart G-213 lope?

BigBlueChevy

BigBlueChevy

Compression Ignition Addict
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So, I'm fabricating some brackets for big blue today and after I stop my arc the welder started to lope. But it only does it for a few seconds... stops.. then will do it again. I snapped a quick video with my camera phone and was hoping someone knew what was causing this? It only does it at welding speed(max throttle). At idle(stand by power speed) it runs clean as a whistle. Didn't notice it was any harder to start up today than usual.

Any suggestions? I'm thinking the carb may need a little cleaning up and drain the fuel filter of debris. Other than that this welder has been wonderful. Never once gave me any trouble and I'd like to keep it like that.

:)
(sorry for the shitty camera quality)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fQ52ZkJT2T0
 
Went back outside after posting this thread and the welder ran just fine. No lope, even after running it hard for a while. No difference in welds either... Though I would still like to know what caused it to lope like that.
 
My guess would be ice in the carb or sediment bowl. Freezing temps can cause these small engines to run like crap.
 
The weird part was, it only started to lope AFTER it had been running for a good half hour at both max throttle and idle speed. It was only till after stopping the arc that it started to lope. Almost like it was having trouble getting the correct fuel amount after the load was taken off. Usually I stop the arc, it winds up from the load being removed and then winds down to normal welding speed.

Hell I don't know. I'm going to be using it tomorrow again anyway so if it does it again I'll investigate.
 
The quality of gasoline the past couple years has gone to shit, then add the ethanol and you get even more problems. The most affected engines are the smaller ones (e.g. ATV's, snowmobiles, lawnmowers etc.) I'd bet you have a bunch of crap gelling up in the float bowl that is periodically plugging the intake. Take the bowl off and clean it out good, spray a bunch of carb cleaner into the innards and put it back together. I'd also recommend running a capful or so of seafoam w/ every tank of gas.

Don't mess with the adjustment screws, the engine not running right is just telling you it's getting plugged up and needs a good cleaning.
 
I suppose I defiantly should clean her up some. I'm not a gas guy, hell I still have to start a thread or find out what it takes to adjust the carb on a 350sbc in my C-60. Gotta learn someday I suppose. Do you recommend that I use a higher octane gasoline in it perhaps? Do they even sell gasoline without the ethanol in it anymore?
 
Depends on what part of the country you live in as to finding non-ethanol gas. There's one station 50 miles in a direction I don't go from me that sells it. I really wish it was closer.

Higher octane won't change anything. I was even told that the higher octane actually has more ethanol. All the octane rating is is a resistance to combustion from compression. The ONLY time higher octane is worth buying is if you have a high compression engine (performance stuff) or if your working an engine hard towing a trailer or something and it's wanting to predetonate because of the excess heat getting built up, which then makes the computer retard the timing so you start loosing power. most small engines aren't built to those kind of tolerances.

Seafoam or there are some additives that are suppose to combat ethanol. I see them in the chainsaw and ATV stores mostly. The mechanics I know in those places are seeing a lot of equipment come in the last couple years or so because they won't run right and it's ALWAYS clogged up carbs because of the shitty gas.
 
Good info there trouttrooper. Guess I'll have to keep a supply of seafoam in the shop now as well. Thats some really good stuff too. Ran it though my C-60 a month ago when it backfired after shutting off.(knock on wood) it hasn't backfired once since then,and it seems to be running better too. One more reason to buy a diesel welder one of these days.
 
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