ok i have been toying around with this 6.5TD i just got. GM8 turbo, marine injectors, 98 lower end, SSD ecm, 80 hp chip ,the pmd has been moved ,3-4 down pipe with 4inch exhaust ,egt, trans ,and boost gauges. i dont agree with alot of the parts that were put on this truck but i bought it this way! ok on start up i have alot of white/gray smoke, no coolant burning. mainly on a cold idle it has a knock and sometimes when warm idling it has the same knock. i rueld out the harmonic balancer and TC bolts. i think its in the fuel system. i need help and ideas please! also the truck has arp head bolts and new gaskets and runs great aside from the knock.
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Help! too much smoke and fuel knock?
- Thread starter 6chevy9
- Start date
Veg_Out
Walking J Designs
Maybe an injector, and I'd also check the timing.
yeah i belive i read alot of your posts on similar issues yesterday. im not sure how to check the timing with the tech2 i have one but its sounds reeeeeaaallly complicated lol. now i heard there is a way to shut off each injector via tech2, is that something easy to do? i also heard with the truck running to take loose the injector lines one at a time, but with 1800 psi it sounds kind of scary to me.
Woody35
Active Member
like i told you on the other site i would check injectors or timing. yeah its complicated. never done it myself but the 6.5 gurus live here so they will guide you through it
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Check the crank pulley for the rubber letting go or too loose.
Remove belt. Grab the crank pulley with both hands and try to turn it. It shouldn't move. Sometimes when they fail the bolts hit the stops and makes a knock sound.
Just rule that out.
Anyhow, it does sound like you have an injector with an issue .. especially if the exhaust stinks of diesel???
This is a fantastic site. Great community here. Welcome!
Remove belt. Grab the crank pulley with both hands and try to turn it. It shouldn't move. Sometimes when they fail the bolts hit the stops and makes a knock sound.
Just rule that out.
Anyhow, it does sound like you have an injector with an issue .. especially if the exhaust stinks of diesel???
This is a fantastic site. Great community here. Welcome!
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Fill out your sig too so we know what type of vehicle / year you have. And mileage.
yes i rueld that out 
i love working on diesels and its not a DD so just for fun but i sure would love to get her running right. i leaning toward a faulty injector myself. hope my 6.2 injectors will work! sorry i have not filled out the sig, im on like six other forums daily lol. every truck i own is an OBS 88-98 though!
i love working on diesels and its not a DD so just for fun but i sure would love to get her running right. i leaning toward a faulty injector myself. hope my 6.2 injectors will work! sorry i have not filled out the sig, im on like six other forums daily lol. every truck i own is an OBS 88-98 though!
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
OBD1 or OBD2? How many miles?
sorry i was trying to fill out my sig before you responded lol. its a 94 C3500. it has a 98 block with 595 miles on the new assembly, SSD ECM, SSD 80 hp chip, SSD marine injectors, PMD relocation W/O the heat sync, and a brand new turbo and im unsure of what it is also from SSD. the numbers on it are 123975? the rest of the truck has 220K or so and the injection pump and lift pump have around 4K or so. there are a few other things done that are not important as well along with gauges and everything else SSD has other their site. none of which i put on or really care for. hope thats enough info
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
I'd pull the injectors and have them balanced (matched PSI) and when they do that they can visually see the spray pattern to make sure everything is OK.
Thats what to do! Especially since its not a DD. Be really cheap.
Thats what to do! Especially since its not a DD. Be really cheap.
you think that will fix it? i heard some one talking about shimming them to 2200 psi or something like that? this is one area im unsure of what people are telling me. i got the part down where i need to pull the injectors out and take them somewhere lol. but what do i ask to have done exactly? i know of a shop that can do this but never heard of it untill yesterday.
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
There is a recent thread around here where someone mailed their set and had the guy in texas (local to one member here) do it.
So if you mail yours to him it will be the 3rd set hes done in a month or 2.
Including shipping it was uner 100bux.
Then you have matched injectors, which factory specs are usually a few hundred psi off.
Most importantly each injector is visually tested for pressure and tester can see em spray. If one is fubar inside, he can fix it up.
Wont be much more than bringing somewhere to have them tested...
When I had injector stuck open it would knock when warm, it reminded me of the cold advance knock. That injector is probably opening way too early causing the advance knock sound. Mine did smoke though.
If it doesnt fix it you have a verified good set of marine injectors that are balanced!
If its still there after that may need to pop of valve covers see whats in there and go from there?
So if you mail yours to him it will be the 3rd set hes done in a month or 2.
Including shipping it was uner 100bux.
Then you have matched injectors, which factory specs are usually a few hundred psi off.
Most importantly each injector is visually tested for pressure and tester can see em spray. If one is fubar inside, he can fix it up.
Wont be much more than bringing somewhere to have them tested...
When I had injector stuck open it would knock when warm, it reminded me of the cold advance knock. That injector is probably opening way too early causing the advance knock sound. Mine did smoke though.
If it doesnt fix it you have a verified good set of marine injectors that are balanced!
If its still there after that may need to pop of valve covers see whats in there and go from there?
Matt Bachand
Depends on the 6.5
Not scary. Loosen in a few turns, all it will do is drip but it will kill the cylinder. See if knock goes away if you want to isolate the cylinder.
If it does go away, swap the injector with the one next to it. See if it it follows the injector or stays with the cylinder.
hmm ill have to check out this guy local to me. id really like to not have much down time on this truck. i want to tear apart the 97 in my sig soon, then the 94 will be DD. i think it has to be those injectors. the lower end is new so it just doesnt sound like it could be an actual rod knock. also the glow plugs are brand new. i belive they are instant heat? not sure. this thing got put together by me and the guy i bought it from last weekend so i know alot of the parts that went into it. the truck also does have an off the line hesitation i noticed today but only if you really stand on it.
Slim Shady
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If you have a tech II you can kill each injector at idle with the tech II. Been a long time since I used a Tech II but the injector balance is in the special functions under the timing set if I remember right.
Then you don;t need to pull or disconnect anything from the motor. Knock should go away when you find the bad injector. I think injector: unless something wasn't tightened correctly on the harmonic balancer or the torque converter, bolts if the truck is an automatic. Just thoughts on possible causes.
Then you don;t need to pull or disconnect anything from the motor. Knock should go away when you find the bad injector. I think injector: unless something wasn't tightened correctly on the harmonic balancer or the torque converter, bolts if the truck is an automatic. Just thoughts on possible causes.
NVW
Well-Known Member
sorry i was trying to fill out my sig before you responded lol. its a 94 C3500. it has a 98 block with 595 miles on the new assembly, SSD ECM, SSD 80 hp chip, SSD marine injectors, PMD relocation W/O the heat sync, and a brand new turbo and im unsure of what it is also from SSD. the numbers on it are 123975? the rest of the truck has 220K or so and the injection pump and lift pump have around 4K or so. there are a few other things done that are not important as well along with gauges and everything else SSD has other their site. none of which i put on or really care for. hope thats enough info
If you don't have the PMD on a heat sink it will cook the transistors in it.
yes i know. after i fix my knock, or during, id like to relocate it further away from the engine if possible. it has a connecter extension and mounting plate about level with the intake. i was wondering if i could cut that extension and lengthin the wires so that i could move it to maybe the bumper? it looks like just four wires and two connecters. would that be ok to do?
NVW
Well-Known Member
I lengthened the existing wires coming from the IP to place mine in the bumper. It's not a problem. Just leave the ground on the IP cover.