• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

Greasing a 2007 GM 2500 Classic

Marauderer

Marauderer

Grumpy Old Cur***geon
Messages
860
Reaction score
127
Location
Powder Springs, GA
I have greased my truck twice now and there are 11 grease fittings on the truck. 4 Ball joints, 4 tie rod ends, 2 on the idler arm upper and lower and one on the Pitman arm. 10 are fairly easy to get to but the Upper idler arm (UIA) fitting is a real rascal to get to.

I plan on replacing the zerk on the UIA to a 90* and face it down and to the rear to see if that helps access. I wonder if the premature failure of the Idler Arms is to folks just saying it is to hard and not greasing the joint?

I have also gone to greasing every 5K mi. as the ball joint grease boots are fairly well collapsed at 5K mi. and I really feel some of the joints are going dry before 10K mi.

I have looked for other threads on this subject and haven't found any.

Has any others found the same findings I have?
 
Every GM truck I've had in the last 20 years (8 or so) had the 2 fittings on top replaced with 90* ones at the first maintenance. I point them toward front center so when the cover comes off i can lube all the fittings by sliding the creeper around the front except the ball joints. Those get done from outside because I have the front wheels off for rotating tires. I just lube and rotate tires at every other oil change.
BTW, a Lincoln battery operated grease gun is one of the best investments I ever made. Worth every penny of the near $200 it cost and more!
 
Marauderer said:
I have greased my truck twice now and there are 11 grease fittings on the truck. 4 Ball joints, 4 tie rod ends, 2 on the idler arm upper and lower and one on the Pitman arm. 10 are fairly easy to get to but the Upper idler arm (UIA) fitting is a real rascal to get to.

I plan on replacing the zerk on the UIA to a 90* and face it down and to the rear to see if that helps access. I wonder if the premature failure of the Idler Arms is to folks just saying it is to hard and not greasing the joint?

I have also gone to greasing every 5K mi. as the ball joint grease boots are fairly well collapsed at 5K mi. and I really feel some of the joints are going dry before 10K mi.

I have looked for other threads on this subject and haven't found any.

Has any others found the same findings I have?
Click to expand...

Yes it is (was), I replaced it just exactly like you are planning to and it is soooooo much easier now.

btfarm said:
Every GM truck I've had in the last 20 years (8 or so) had the 2 fittings on top replaced with 90* ones at the first maintenance. I point them toward front center so when the cover comes off i can lube all the fittings by sliding the creeper around the front except the ball joints. Those get done from outside because I have the front wheels off for rotating tires. I just lube and rotate tires at every other oil change.
BTW, a Lincoln battery operated grease gun is one of the best investments I ever made. Worth every penny of the near $200 it cost and more!
Click to expand...

They are phenomenal when you need to grease 4 2-tie balers, 2 midsize balers, 2 rakes...ask me how I know. :D Those Lincoln grease guns are the bees knees, I wish I had a personal one.
 
Def. on the right track. We have an OEM brand elec. grease gun and it works nice for what we do. When I change the oil on the d-max this weekend I'll look into replacing the zerks with the 90° ones, as we have a plastic container full of them, lol. Just be glad these trucks have greaseable stuff, my Bonneville came w/o any zerks until I put NAPA tie-rod ends on that are greaseable.
 
I like the idea of the electric grease gun. I have been using a pneumatic one for 30 years now and have been pleased with the performance.
 
The electric one is the shiznit for farming. No cords, no hoses, no pumping. Pull the trigger and go.
 
Dad's 05 LLY said:
The electric one is the shiznit for farming. No cords, no hoses, no pumping. Pull the trigger and go.
Click to expand...
I'm probably gonna wish I hadn't said this but I can go through a 12 pack case of grease without having to recharge the battery. I've had the gun for at least 8 years and can count on 1 hand the number of times I've had to charge it.
Hope it works next time i use it...;)
 
Ours goes through about one battery/ 3 tubes of grease. With how little we actually use it a charge lasts 6-8 mos.
 
For that PITA fitting, I bought a tip for the grease gun from Merchant that slides in from the side of the fitting and it makes the job a whole lot easier! No need to change the fitting,which I can only imagine to be a bear!
 
Yeah, if it's not rusted it's not hard at all to put in a new fitting. Just screws out. I was able to get my hand in there tonight, so i didn't screw with changing the zerk, but I might next time, pull off the plastic skid plate.

Bammer, I know exactly what you're talking about, we had one when I worked in a shop. Unfortunately then you gotta set aside a grease gun or change around the tips.
 
I got two grease guns so I don't have to swap, it isn't practical having two but I got one at a tag sale for a buck !
 
Hi Bud, been there done that.

I always watch the boot seal and make sure it doesn't blow out.

You made a great point for those that haven't blown one or more out yet.

I usually just make sure the boot is full and don't try and expand it like a balloon.

Maybe that is why I need to grease it every 5K
 
I just found the best way for me to grease my truck.

I took it to my GMC dealer for some warranty work and while there, I asked the writeup tech how much would he charge me if I supplied the oil and filter. He said $9.50 and I supplied 10 quarts of Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck from WalMart and the AC/Delco oil filter that I had bought 10 for under $40 from the corner parts store.

For that amount, I'm gonna have them do it from now on. Sure beats me getting all dirty and sweaty, crawling around under the truck on a creeper. :hihi:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top