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Going insane

6.5baby

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I posted a few times on here and everyone had such great advice! Im begging for help this time because i am at my witts end. Fixed the fuel leak, cps replaced, pmd replaced and remotely mounted. The potato had been starting super fast and running amazingly. Now, it will fire 1 time, run a few seconds, die(lile i shit the key off), and refuse to start til the next day, then same thing. Im really getting frustrated with it and about ready to blow it up and bury it(my husband is stopping me because he knows i really do love my truck). Please please throw ideas at me! Side note, fsos works well(checked it), new fuel filter(housing included), new lift pump(ops bypassed), new cps, new pmd.

Thanks in advance
 
I posted a few times on here and everyone had such great advice! Im begging for help this time because i am at my witts end. Fixed the fuel leak, cps replaced, pmd replaced and remotely mounted. The potato had been starting super fast and running amazingly. Now, it will fire 1 time, run a few seconds, die(lile i shit the key off), and refuse to start til the next day, then same thing. Im really getting frustrated with it and about ready to blow it up and bury it(my husband is stopping me because he knows i really do love my truck). Please please throw ideas at me! Side note, fsos works well(checked it), new fuel filter(housing included), new lift pump(ops bypassed), new cps, new pmd.

Thanks in advance


Hang in there, don't go insane.

Some of these guys will chime in with some tips for you.
 
1995 chevy 3500. It starts beautifully now and has yet another problem! Cracked an injector line and bled it(just 1 so far). The potato starts right up, runs great, and threw yet another dif code. Ses comes on when throttle is pushed, goes off when let off throttle. The new code is 36. 100% no change in running(actually runs amazing since the injector line was bled) This truck is going to kill me with frustration!
 
1995 chevy 3500. It starts beautifully now and has yet another problem! Cracked an injector line and bled it(just 1 so far). The potato starts right up, runs great, and threw yet another dif code. Ses comes on when throttle is pushed, goes off when let off throttle. The new code is 36. 100% no change in running(actually runs amazing since the injector line was bled) This truck is going to kill me with frustration!
Hang in there, You will get it all sorted out, then, it will run real well for a LOT of miles.
I wonder if it could be the throttle position sensor ?
 
Pmd is new and relocated. Always use good fuel and premium 2 stroke oil. Fuel filter housing is new(ac delco). Didnt think of tps, would that throw a code 36?
 
IP is a year old and since replacement the truck has had 1200 miles put on it. Could air in the system cause this code? I only cracked and bled 1 line. Also, how do you check the tps? All grounds have either been replaced(wire and connector) or new connectors.
 
I dont have a clear line. Wont a clear plastic line melt being in the valley? What would cause air to be in the system? Could it be because the entire system was never bled(had a massive fuel leak, hence the new fuel filter housing). What is the best way to bleed the system?
 
Don,t put it in valley, it replaces the line from pump to return line , it will have to be replaced in a few years as it get hard and no longer is clear.
 
The return line coming out of the front of the ip going to the metal line which also is fed from all the injector returns. It is about 5”-6” long in an arc, rubber line now. 1/4” diameter.

Buy clear line from any hardware store. Get 2 screw style clamps to fit the hose wt same time, as the squeeze clamps don’t always work on the clear stuff. It is sold by the foot so buy 1 foot. Cut in half and save the other half stored out of the sunlight. You will need to replace it in a few years- some get 2 years, here we get about 5 years before it turns yellowish and gets hard. It is so cheap and easy to swap most everyone leaves it there all the time and replaced as needed. This is supposed to be step #1 in fuel system diagnostics.

here is a video of my nephews 1988 with a HUMONGOUS air amount in the line. Took 50% throttle just to run and 100% throttle to move truck. But a small amount of air will allow it to run but cause all kinds of issues. The one in this video had the original owner give awwy the truck because it was “the fixable” according to him and the shops he took it to. $30 worth of new fuel line was the repair.
If you have a ds4, (cant tell what you have, please fill out signature with truck) your ip will look different but return line is in same area on engine.
 
Air gets introduced into the system from upstream of the lift pump. Everything from the lift pump to the fuel tank is a suspect of having an air leak. Usually loose hose clamps being the biggest culprit. I am not sure but, maybe in some instances it could be the LP itself too.
 
What new PMD did you buy?
Some Dorman seems to have that DTC from the start.
Is the truck running?
It is a 95, so if the OPS that controls the LP when engine is running is bad or weak, it can cause air in the fuel system.
Do the OPS/LP relay mod.
 
1995 chevy 3500. It starts beautifully now and has yet another problem! Cracked an injector line and bled it(just 1 so far). The potato starts right up, runs great, and threw yet another dif code. Ses comes on when throttle is pushed, goes off when let off throttle. The new code is 36. 100% no change in running(actually runs amazing since the injector line was bled) This truck is going to kill me with frustration!

You only need to bled one line and really not even that. It will purge the air all by itself. Frankly, I don't bother even on an engine rebuild.

Air in fuel is step #1 in the GM shop manual. As you just replaced the FFM it may be full of air. Typically we jump the lift pump to run and open the bleeder on top of the fuel filter till it quits burping air and pukes fuel everywhere. Then close the bleeder.

Kinked hoses behind the FFM esp. if it's a marine take off with different bends is possible. So is a clogged tank sock. Likely the lift pump is "bad" due to the OPS, oil pressure switch, contact burned up. With the FFM out you were looking at it and maybe bumped the wire.

Use a fuel pressure gauge on the water drain. "0" could be a vacuum. Lift pump runs in "crank/start" and then depends on the OPS after that. Thus a bad OPS can just start and then DIE as it get fuel during cranking only.

We have an in-depth guide here:

 
Ops is bypassed. The LP is on a switch as are the gps. The ffm was replaced with ac delco, new fuel lines(except a clear line to IP), LP is new. The truck starts and runs amazing(except the ses means i have no cruise so i miss that).
 
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