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Fuel tank sender and sock

3500 dually

3500 dually

Member
Messages
79
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3
Location
Peculiar, Missouri
Well my fuel guage is reading erratic at times and it started to miss under a load, although under a miss i can shift to nuetral and it will go away and free rev with out any problem. I have change the fuel filter and it seem to help but i had to clean the fuel filter canister. The missing started when I had to brake real hard do to a car pulling out in front of me. I believe I pick up up a bunch of fuel tank sludge from the bottom now, the truck has 186,000 miles on it so I'm sure there is some in there. My question is what recomendations on fuel sender and sock?? Any input is much appreciated.
Thanks
David
 
Burning oil, pmdcable.com sells a nice replacement fuel sender. Add a Walbro lift pump that has a built in screen and eliminate the tank sock. Seriously, do you want to drop the tank to clean a damn sock? I have not found a replacement tank sock with the relief valve in it like the factory sock. GM may have it, but, aftermarket senders/pick up assy/socks do not have the built in relief valve. So the wrong part also adds issues and favors just eliminating the sock.

Bad fuel or bugs in the fuel can plug the sock. So can the tank lining coming off. A little biocide in your tank now and then keeps the bugs at bay.
 
I do, to me its the most important gauge sept for oil pressure.
One thing to know is my FPT is pre filter so you will know what condition of the LP is.
Its good to have post pressure so you know more about FFM filter too. There just is not a good place to install a tap post filter.
 
Totally agree Leroy with fuel pressure knowing, but can this be install until i get a fuel pressure guage. Is the pump regulated to a max pressure or is there a adjustment. Also do you sell the senders? I did not see them on your web site. I'm wanting to replace the sender due to erratic reading of the fuel guage.
Thanks for the advise
David
 
The FPT is as easy to install as just removing the air bleed and installing the FPT in its place (hand tight only) Takes literaly a minute. You could put a 1/8" pip plug in it til you ready for a gauge, but I would just leave the air bleed in til your ready.
The Walbro does not need a regulator in this application. You should see 9-10 psi at IP witch is perfect. LP bypass fittings are highly recomended (on my site below the Walbro)
I do sell the FSU (or MRFSU) but only have enough material to build 2 more. I took it off the site because it did not move well. After these last two are gone that may be it unless demand is there.
 
I will be getting that stuff, LP by-pass kit, the pump, the FPT and the filter kit. Look for my order with in the next day. I have recieve some parts from you before and had No problems - outstanding job. I got the PMD remote and the Boost bolt from you. Also we had played phone tag a few times about 2 months ago. Be looking for my order to come thru. Thank for your help and a thanks goes to this great site.
David
 
Well I installed the new walbro pump and filter kit on the truck today. Found out still having the same problem, which is has a miss under a load but when go to neutral it free revs fine. If you try to stay in the throttle the vehicle will die like running out of fuel. When I did the pump and filter install I could back blow in the fuel line and hear bubbles in the tank and with out having to blow very hard. I am beginning to think it might be a IP and looking for info on how to do a good solid test on the pump. The pump if I remember is probably 5 years old, wow! Any info is much appreciated.
Thanks
 
To confirm, your FFM filter is clean?
Also, I had a problem and made a post on it here, I had junk build up in the hard line between LP and FFM. Blew that out into a bucket and was shocked at the amount of crap. It solved my stalling under load problem.
Long story short make sure your lines are clear and filters clean.
What PSI are you getting now with new set up?
Did you remove sock?
 
More likely air in the fuel, get these sooty handed greasy diesel stinking wrench hounds to tell you how to do the clear fuel line thing. I also highly reccomend a Italian tuneup as explained to me by Tom, the head of Mercedes classic diesel cars. Put twice the recommended Techron fuel additive in the tank and fill with diesel, then run the eternal piss out of it,uphill, downhill n on the freeway, then drive it untill its used most of that tank up, it should clear up sticky injectors etc and melt the coked up deposits. Its cheap and works amazingly well. Also u can do the air hose thing but do not lay beneath the open gas cap, the compressor will cover you n blown out diesel!
 
Have not removed the sock yet, I have my fuel gauge still need to hook it up. Just got back from the parts store with another new filter for the FFM. I change it last week but I want to change it since I have the new set up now.
 
Just check fuel pressure at a idle I have 9.5-10 psi at 2000 rpm I have 8.5psi. The fuel filter that i change last week still clean, although I found air in the FFM when I was hooking up the temp fuel gauge.
 
Just got done cleaning and moving some grounds. Perform a IP test according to Heath Diesel, truck is still missing and stalls out. Flash codes found 49, 84 and a 99, talk to Bill at Heath Diesel came to a conclusion that my IP is gone. The stalling only happens when the truck is warm. Now what IP to go with is the question, a new one from heath diesel or a reman? Looking for some input on where to get a IP or any other input that may help.
Thanks
David
 
Well clean and move some grounds and did a IP test according to Heath Diesel. Took it for another test drive seem ok until the truck had been running at normal temperature, then started to miss and finally stalled. Flash codes found 49,84,99. Contacted Heath Diesel and talk with Bill, with the results from the IP test and the code 99 he says the IP is bad. Looking for a IP now, where to buy one? do I get one from Heath Diesel for $1495 which is new unit with all updates or try to find a cheaper one? Any suggestions is helpful, the last one was a gm. Any advise is helpful?
David
 
You could rebuild it DIY style. Bison has a thread here that shows how IIRC?
I "might" be able to source the parts? never looked into it.
 
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