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Fuel shutoff problem?

Yachtcare

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Gentlemen, Truck was running fine, then just shutdown. Like turning off the key. NO re start since then. I had no codes until this, and am now showing DTC 13. I have fuel to the IP, but am blowing a few small bubbles when I cracked the line at #1 injector. I pulled the solenoid out and put 12V to it, and the plunger seems to operate correctly. Not sure if the voltage at the harness side of the connector is relevant, but it's only showing 1-3 volts after I cycle the glows and start cranking. Is this a bad ground somewhere? or something more sinister?
I was in the neighborhood of the local Stan shop this morning, they tried to sell me a new PMD($263.00, including new wiring harnes from the back of the IP) I just put a new one in, on a heatsink in the nostrils about six weeks back. Had no codes, and even had cruise control, until this incident. I dont recall ever hearing of a failed PMD throwing a 13. Advice and suggestions are appreciated. TIA
 
Did the PMD get wet and maybe short out? If the connections are not sealed properly it could cause a short and improper operation.
 
Anything is possible, I suppose. I did seal the edges of FSD with black RTV on the face of the heatsink, and sealed the screw heads. Of course I added the proper paste between FSD and heatsink, and the 6' extension came from a vendor with the proper weather pak connectors. I'm not ruling anything out, just convinced it's not very likely that it could be the FSD again, this soon, and with a DTC 13.
 
13 is for the fuel shut off sol. When you put 12v to it was it with a jumper or with it's wiring harness?
 
Try it connected to the harness and ground the body then turn the key on. If it doesn't open then check the fuse, also if the fuse is good clean the fuse spades. I had this problem with mine. Cleaning the fuse spade solved it. I did all my fuses after that. Good luck. Leo
 
Will try that method tomorrow evening, after I get the truck inside, out of the weather. I went thru and cleaned all the spades of the fuses, about the end of March. But the rainy season has kicked in here. Humidity in the 90% range is the norm lately. Will clean up all the grounds again. Thanks for the help.
 
Leo, Thanks for the help. The F/SOL fuse was actually blown. I guess the question becomes one of what would make it blow? In the meantime, I guess I'll start carrying a few extra 20 amp fuses with me. For now problem solved, but still shows how much I have yet to learn about the 6.5. I could kick myself for this one....
 
Nice call, leo...

Hey yachtcare, don't sweat it. You made a great initial diagnosis, resisted the dealer's lure (oooh, buy a new pmd...), and did the right stuff to get fixed.

Every time one of us has a problem and documents it on here or gets help from the guys, we build our on-site knowledge base, and make it possible for somebody else to search up your experience to solve their new problem.

The way I see it, my purpose for living is to serve as a warning to others... if somebody else can learn the easy way where I learned the hard way, then that's a good thing.

Welcome to DTR!
 
Leo, Thanks for the help. The F/SOL fuse was actually blown. I guess the question becomes one of what would make it blow? In the meantime, I guess I'll start carrying a few extra 20 amp fuses with me. For now problem solved, but still shows how much I have yet to learn about the 6.5. I could kick myself for this one....

Hi current from poor grounds, also check what other components die with that fuse pulled, that may be causing high circuit current
 
Well, couldnt resist and got behind the wheel, with a load of goodies(moving furniture to new digs) Fuse blew when engine reached operating temp. After six blown fuses called AAA and got it back into the shop. Probably Tuesday before I can get in and go thru the grounds again. I'll check what else is on that circuit per TD's advice. In the meantime it's back to the rental gasser Ram.......
 
could be the sonenoid valve itself, yours being a 94 I'll surmise it is one with allen screw in end of it, those are known leakers, could be leaking internally & shorting it out, for get home fix or until you get a new one thread out the s/d solenoid from the IP, cut off end of the plunger pin & reinstall it, loss of voltage to driver with ign key off will shut down the truck, replace fuel s/d solenoid with newer hex head plunger.
 
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Still F('n)/SOL.... Not sure what else is on the circuit, cant turn up a wiring diagram for this thing.
I picked up a new s/d solenoid today, put it in...let idle for 1/2 hour...went for 20 mile test drive, staying close to home, all was fine. Put a light load in, struck out across town...20 miles out, same symptom as Sunday, blown fuse, fuses continue to blow, one after the other. Truck aint going anywhere if it isnt going there on a hook. Get towed back to shop, engine has cooled, put new fuse in, fires right up, WTF? Fuse only blows at operating temp?
Noticed that fuses dont blow in any set pattern, i.e, may blow as soon as key is turned on, may blow after a few seconds, sometimes wont blow until I start cranking. Could this be ignition switch related?
 
Time to start following wires from fuse to power source to find out where its shorting out. Look for corrosion. Pull out of wireloom and inspect every inch.
 
Yep... if it's blowing ONLY after operating temps reached, I'd be looking for someplace where the wire touched the temp sensor wire... they go to ground when they warm up, iirc. Maybe follow the CTS line??
 
OK, gotta ask....CTS line?
I have managed to find a wiring schematic.....Pink line from F/SOL fuse to a pin on the FSD, then goes to fuel s/d solenoid. So PMD a possibility again after all?
 
Found it..............

Bad on me! (again). When I installed the extension harness, and heat sink up in the bumper, I let the wire rub on the inside of the bumper. Wednesday morning I went out, to start tracing wires from front to back. Fortunatly, the problem was looking at me where I started, at the front. I snipped out the bad section, twisted the wires together, and soldered them, and ordered a new harness. Going into day three of driving the truck, and no problems have recurred. The burned wire is on pin "D" which would be the "pink wire" leading directly to the s/d solenoid, then to the fs/sol fuse. I also turned the heatsink over, inside the bumper, to make certain nothing rubs again. Thanks again to all for the help.
 

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