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Finally got to my engine ground!

Rachet

Active Member
Messages
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Location
Camano Island, WA
I ended up removing the front clip to get to my engine ground on the rear of the engine LOL. Actually, I'm replacing the rusted inner structure components, updating the cooling system, and incapsulating and painting the frame rails and engine components.
 

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Not sure what year yous is, but from the look of the water pump. go with the 2000 year model 6.5 water pump. use GM or AC Delco only brand. also get you the Duramax fan blade and the electro-Viscous can clutch upgrade from a 2010 express van. it's all a bolt on upgrade. you'll need a hayden fan controller and pigtail to connect the fan clutch. but this upgrade works wonders thanks to @ak diesel driver for sharing the info and doing all the homework for us.
 
Aaand, before putting it all back together, before installing that very nice Duramax fan system and the Hayden fan controller, get a set of Energy Suspension replacement engine mounts. Your engine mounts are most likely sagged and that Duramax fan will rub hard on the lower fan shroud.
Replace those mounts now before putting back on the front clip. You will like that You did that instead of waiting until it is all back together. Some of those bolts and nuts is mighty tough to get to, at least on the K models of trucks. Also have a 15 mm ratcheting box end wrench on hand too. Turns out that is a mighty handy tool for doing these enjun mounts.
Leroy Diesel sells the Energy Suspension enjun mounts and they are priced right.
 
Unfortunately, the mounts are sold out on Leroy Diesel.
I see that maybe Quadstar might have some.same price as what Leroys was.
 
OK, Guys, I am trying to replace the cartridge on my turbo. There is play in the old assembly so I ordered a new assembly and I have it now. I am trying futilely to get the exhaust side off. I got one bolt off with a socket but the other bolts are only accessible with an open-end wrench. I have tried soaking them with Blaster Max and heat but I only end up starting to round the corners. Any suggestions with be welcomed.
 
Try striking straight down on the bolt heads with a nice punch and hammer. Just be careful of missing and busting something.
Heating just the cast steel around the bolt threaded portion of the turbo should release the rust and carbon and allow the bolts to come free.
I know when I did my turbo rebuild that was the most difficult part about it. Removing the stud nuts that mount the turbo to the flange aint near as difficult as them hidden bolt heads.
 
replacing just the cartridge is not fun! be ready to break off a bolt or two and unless you have the skill to drill and retap those holes, a machine shop might be needed.

I'm not sure if there is room to get a box end of a wrench in there just to break it loose, but you might consider getting you a 6 point box end from a cheap tool store like harbor freight where your no loss to grind the end of the wrench down just narrow enough to get in there where you can have a good bite to get it loose. then go the read with the open end.

if you are able to get it to loosen, remember to work it back and fourth on every half turn or so that way it wont lock up on you and break off. oh and the use of map gas really helps heat things up with this kind of work.
 
And I too have found that regular good old fashioned 3 in 1 oil works about as good as any penetrating oil I have ever tried.
I cant remember how I got the bolt heads loosed on my GM8 turbo. Maybe a thin wall 12 point 3/8ths socket but most likely the open end wrench. If You can put some pressure on the bolt head with the wrench then tap the center of the bolt with a small hammer that might be enough to jar it loose.
Sometimes a punch strategically placed onto the flat right next to the point of the bolt then giving it some tap/raps with a hammer in a loosening direction will jar them loose too.
 
Cast iron is very porous. heating that area up to expand the metal then spraying it with 3 n 1 oil or pb blaster to get it lubed up sometimes works. a friend of mine I worked with would use the pb blaster and soak things on his tractors for a week before trying to tear it down. he always said that seemed to help the disassembly process and he had less words to say while doing the job too lol.
 
I kinda followed that technique when I swapped turbos on my truck. I had ordered a new to me used turbo, while I was waiting for it to arrive. I would spray down all four mounting studs and nuts right after I parked the truck each day while the engine was hot. I did that just about every day anywhere I went until the the parts arrived in the mail and I commenced the "hold my beer and watch this" disassembly. all went smoothly! I was surprised they all came loose :)
 
Eureka! It took some time to track down but then I've got more time than money. After checking other sellers' websites which require about $20 for shipping + tax ( the sales tax in my county in Washington State is 8.7% but other counties are almost 10%!) I found the Energy Suspension 6.2-6.5 motor mount inserts on Amazon for $37.69 + Tax but FREE SHIPPING! Now you will see in the primitive screenshot that I've uploaded that it states in red "THIS DOES NOT FIT 1996 GMC C3500".
But the photo looks exactly like the same Mount that is pictured on other sellers' sites. being that there's no problem returning stuff I took a chance and ordered 2 of those puppies
Well, they arrived today and as you can see in the photos they are the right mounts. The Energy Suspension part number is 3.1152G.
 

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Take note of how the old mounts are located within the clam shells. If they are installed 180 off there might be trouble getting the mounts to fit properly.
The instructions in the package does a good job of explaining how they fit.
After cleaning and scraping the shells, scrubbed with mineral spirits then laid them back just the way they were before scrubbing. Then placed the mount into the shell.
Instructions says to use some detergent or some such other stuff. I happened to have a tube of silicone dielectronic grease handy so I gave them a liberal coating of that stuff.
I think the lube is so that the mounts will more easily seat into the shells once the engine gets to thumping and pounding its way down the road. 😹😹😹
 
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