No, do not rehone the cylinders. The rough is wore off and You do not want to start that process over again. Break in has been accomplished.Found out the hard way 90 ft-lbs is not enough torque for ARP head studs.
ARP instructions said 90, but after some research it looks like I should have gone to 125.
I re-confirmed the decks are square, so I’m sure it was because of insufficient torque.
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While I have it apart again, I’m going to O-Ring the block so it’s less likely to blow another gasket.
QUESTION: If I pull the pistons to cut the o-ring groove, will I have to re-hone the cylinders? I only have 15,000 km on the engine since the rebuild, looks like there is still a decent crosshatch (see pic). Will I have to do another break-in?
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I have seen the suction tube of the pickup screen held in position with a roll pin and in another instance a cotter key.I've always pinned the pickup tube to the pump with a 1/8 roll pin but a cotter pin is a good alternative as well.
How does one Tig weld when the torch seems to be making 1/2" diameter circles?Yeah- this IS common. Not just for this engine.
Absolutely worth taking to someone that can tig it in place if you can’t.
Remember when installing a screen to set the depth by rotating the tube in the pump, then make a ‘timing mark’ by scoring across the tube and the pump.
My concern with jb weld is it only takes a tiny piece to flake off and that will go straight through the screen and eat bearings for lunch.