I'm using 3/8" air brake lines and fittings for transmission overdrive transfercase and differential vents I've read that an "air loop should be incorporated into the vent system" however; I need information on how to do that......anyone know?
Yea, I never heard of it either however; I know how it works with plumbing just curious it is being used in off road builds.Never heard of such a thing. Home types of natural gas pipe uses a "DROP" to capture moisture and crap that might other wise hit the gas valve.
To me, if a person made a loop in the tube, it could eventually fill the lower portion of the loop with enough moisture that when the component is cooling it might draw the moisture into the said component.
Factory is just a length of hose run up high enough so it dont get submerged when crossing rivers and lakes. LOL
Yea, the idea was from one of the jeep forums on topic of vents.....so I'll stay with all the lines going to the snorkel stack, thanks for the input.Most cars just vent right at the housing. Trucks, jeeps, etc have a hose that goes up a foot or so then has a vent.
Military rigs like hmmwvs, tanks, etc have all the vent hoses connect together and go up to one high point, usually adjacent to the air intake. Some Hummers have the one joined unit go to the air filter housing so the engine air filter keeps dirt out of the vent side lines. Other Hummers (like mine) have the vent lines connect and go to a separate filter that looks like an old gas filter by the air intake.
Each system has it’s draw backs and advantages. But adding a loop like a P trap in plumbing if that is what they are saying- dumbass idea. Absolutely will create moisture trap which will stop the flow of air.
When the enclosure gets hot or cools down if sealed will create pressure or a vacuum. Bad idea regardless of vehicle use. You could run a 20’ hose off any vent and as long as it does NOT trap moisture in it by horizontal to vertical transitions, it will vent the pressure differential.
My suggestion is connect them all together and have them get air from the clean side of your existing air filter. With no loops/traps.
Them dobbers can be found in the strangest places on my Burb too.I'd say only need a strainer/basic filter over the end so dirt dobbers or bees/insects don't clog up the hose. I have seen some little plastic hat thingies stuck in the end.
I have a JD tractor that the clutch bell housing was sealed and it rusted from condesation? A lot of people (that didn't ford water) just left out a drain plug out on theirs. Some dealers took them out. I read where some old times sometimes use to inset a large cotter pin or other "dangler" in small drain holes of things. The dangler was to bounce around and help retard any dirt dobbers or other from nesting in the drain hole.
As always thanks FERM....The idea is to run your vent lines to a high location and then put a 180 in the hose and bring it back down about 6 inches. This way if you do happen to by some chance get in water deep enough to submerge your vent line it would have to suck the water up that 6 inch drop before it could run down the vent line and into whatever you're venting. It's a simple setup that does work if you're running in deep water often.
I'm running two trans vents one on the high side of the main case and one on the OD unit then I have the diffs, t-case, p/s, master cyl & hydro boost........vents will be up and out of engine bay on the snorkel stack terminating at the top of stack.Run the vent lines to clean side of the air filter? As many automatic transmissions as I have cratered via slipping clutches while doing so turning the ATF into a vapor... Yeah feeding the ATF vapor from a slipping trans into a diesel engine intake is asking for a run-away.