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Drag Racing Setup and Truck

Yojih123

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Right now I have a 2003 Ford 7.3 f350 dually crewcab with swamp's motorsports parts and tuner making 450hp and 1300 lb/ft of torque and I want the most amount of hp and Ib/ft of torque and I want to make it drag truck any suggestions for engine and drag truck setup
 

Will L.

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Thats a really open ended request.
Any suggestions made could be a step in wrong direction.
The specs are a good place to start, but don’t tell what you have done.
Budget?
How often you are willing to go through major components?
How is the engine built now?
Transmission?
Drive axle(s)?
How much weight have you chopped of the truck?
Tube chassis and carbon fiber body or all stock?
What is current ET and speed at 1000 & 1320?
Do you run both or only one length track?
Ever plan on the truck being street driven?


I could type 15 more chapters of questions but I think that’s a good start.
 

Yojih123

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Thats a really open ended request.
Any suggestions made could be a step in wrong direction.
The specs are a good place to start, but don’t tell what you have done.
Budget?
How often you are willing to go through major components?
How is the engine built now?
Transmission?
Drive axle(s)?
How much weight have you chopped of the truck?
Tube chassis and carbon fiber body or all stock?
What is current ET and speed at 1000 & 1320?
Do you run both or only one length track?
Ever plan on the truck being street driven?


I could type 15 more chapters of questions but I think that’s a good start.
Could you please type the other 15 more chapters of questions?
The only things not stock on the engine are it has bigger injectors and big turbo and and a 6 way knob and tuner and stock weight and Brian's truck shop transmission Could you help me with everything else?
 
Last edited:

Yojih123

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Probably the next "BIG" question is, What's the budget?
I have the truck but I need to get the 2018 Ford Diesel Engine 6.7 then get everything to make it a full time drag truck it's a crewcab dually 2003 ford f350 with swamp's motorsports parts and tuner making 450hp and 1300 lb/ft of torque
 

Will L.

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First, put the truck and it’s modifications in the signature line would help.
The questions I asked would be first to answer, then go from there. They weren’t rhetorical.
All out race means low weight, high power. Have you got rid of the steel front clip, doors, bed yet for fiberglass or carbon?
Still have a frame and suspension that is built to handle 2,000 lbs in the bed and travel rough roads and flex, or is that gone yet and only have a 4 link to the spooled rear axle hung from all tube frame?
Still have glass windshield with wipers, its motor, wiring and controls? Or plexi and all the wasted weight gone?

On the engine: balanced, lightened, chryoed, coated, nitrous, propane, supercharged, turbo, twin turbo, wmi, the heads: ported -polish -300 grit surface-dimpled-lyned-
pistons: dimpled- cut- type- compression- lower end torque vs high rpm or exceeding high rpm-

Like, there is so many ways of doing this there are literally thousands of ways to build 1 engine. What gearing you want and if you focus on hole shot or top end speed determines how everything gets set up.

I had engines that lasted 1month between needing rings, bearings, and reseating valves from egt cooking everything until I started getting free engines from gm to do it with. Then I had to quit improving the obvious stuff so they could get test info on what breaks and how. I would sometimes eat 2 engines a night pushing twin turbos and nitro propane back in the 90’s when no one heard of a diesel at the track.

It is all one math equation:
How fast you want divided by how much you spend equals how close you get and for how long.
 

Yojih123

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First, put the truck and it’s modifications in the signature line would help.
The questions I asked would be first to answer, then go from there. They weren’t rhetorical.
All out race means low weight, high power. Have you got rid of the steel front clip, doors, bed yet for fiberglass or carbon?
Still have a frame and suspension that is built to handle 2,000 lbs in the bed and travel rough roads and flex, or is that gone yet and only have a 4 link to the spooled rear axle hung from all tube frame?
Still have glass windshield with wipers, its motor, wiring and controls? Or plexi and all the wasted weight gone?

On the engine: balanced, lightened, chryoed, coated, nitrous, propane, supercharged, turbo, twin turbo, wmi, the heads: ported -polish -300 grit surface-dimpled-lyned-
pistons: dimpled- cut- type- compression- lower end torque vs high rpm or exceeding high rpm-

Like, there is so many ways of doing this there are literally thousands of ways to build 1 engine. What gearing you want and if you focus on hole shot or top end speed determines how everything gets set up.

I had engines that lasted 1month between needing rings, bearings, and reseating valves from egt cooking everything until I started getting free engines from gm to do it with. Then I had to quit improving the obvious stuff so they could get test info on what breaks and how. I would sometimes eat 2 engines a night pushing twin turbos and nitro propane back in the 90’s when no one heard of a diesel at the track.

It is all one math equation:
How fast you want divided by how much you spend equals how close you get and for how long.
The truck I know but the modifications I do not know I only know the companies we bought the modifications from. I need help with the low weight and high horsepower and no steel front clip doors and bed and frame and suspension and a 4 link to the spooled rear axle hung from all tube chassis frame and chromoly chassis and help with having no glass windshield with wipers, its motor, wiring and controls? Or plexi and all the wasted weight gone
On the engine: balanced, lightened, chryoed, coated, nitrous, propane, supercharged, turbo, twin turbo, wmi, the heads: ported -polish -300 grit surface-dimpled-lyned-
pistons: dimpled- cut- type- compression- lower end torque vs high rpm or exceeding high rpm- ET is the only this I want
 

Twisted Steel Performance

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
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What is your location, ie what state or country ?

This sounds like gasser head work - the heads: ported -polish -300 grit surface-dimpled-lyned-

This doesn't make sense to me , please explain - pistons: dimpled- cut- type-
 

Will L.

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Location
Boulder City Nv
What is your location, ie what state or country ?

This sounds like gasser head work - the heads: ported -polish -300 grit surface-dimpled-lyned-

This doesn't make sense to me , please explain - pistons: dimpled- cut- type-
The questions i am asking like
did he port the heads
did he polish the runners
Did he finish the runners to a 300 grit instead of polish
Did he dimple the runners
Etc,etc,etc is all me trying to say before offering any specific help, we need to know EXACTLY what the build is and what theory they put it together under.

I don’t know the exact engine enough to say watch for “x”. But if he is running high volume low boost pressure and it is direct injection, then full polish with dimples would reach maximum air flow and be best.

If he is running really high boost pressure then the added speed of flow isn’t going to pay off and large reservoir intake manifold will help more.

If it was put together with a 300 grit finish, then that tells us it is someone used to building gas engines and to see what other errors besides that one was made.

@Yojih123 you specified hp and torque. Please post your dyno graphs to show climb and cross rates rpm becomes critical if after increase in both torque and hp. Also if a standing dyno or truck roller dyno.
What is redline rpm for your engine determined at?
Please don’t misunderstand, not challenging numbers, I believe your numbers are quite possible, just need to see the sheets to analyze. Listing multiples along with the changes made to show room for growth.
 

FellowTraveler

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First, put the truck and it’s modifications in the signature line would help.
The questions I asked would be first to answer, then go from there. They weren’t rhetorical.
All out race means low weight, high power. Have you got rid of the steel front clip, doors, bed yet for fiberglass or carbon?
Still have a frame and suspension that is built to handle 2,000 lbs in the bed and travel rough roads and flex, or is that gone yet and only have a 4 link to the spooled rear axle hung from all tube frame?
Still have glass windshield with wipers, its motor, wiring and controls? Or plexi and all the wasted weight gone?

On the engine: balanced, lightened, chryoed, coated, nitrous, propane, supercharged, turbo, twin turbo, wmi, the heads: ported -polish -300 grit surface-dimpled-lyned-
pistons: dimpled- cut- type- compression- lower end torque vs high rpm or exceeding high rpm-

Like, there is so many ways of doing this there are literally thousands of ways to build 1 engine. What gearing you want and if you focus on hole shot or top end speed determines how everything gets set up.

I had engines that lasted 1month between needing rings, bearings, and reseating valves from egt cooking everything until I started getting free engines from gm to do it with. Then I had to quit improving the obvious stuff so they could get test info on what breaks and how. I would sometimes eat 2 engines a night pushing twin turbos and nitro propane back in the 90’s when no one heard of a diesel at the track.

It is all one math equation:
How fast you want divided by how much you spend equals how close you get and for how long.
It really comes down to "how fast does one want to spend?"
 

btfarm

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The diet necessary to get that F350 stretch down to fighting weight isn't going to be an easy job, especially if you want it to stay together with big HP and torque.
 

Yojih123

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Who sale the best parts for 2003 ford f350 crewcab dually body and chassis parts and who sales the best parts for the ford 6.7 then does anybody sale a stroker kit to make a 6.7 a 7.3?
 
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