CV Boot Replacement or New CV axles?

[Big T]

I have one inner CV boot that just split. Axles are like 5 years old, but only like 30K miles on them. Question is whether I replace just the boots or go with new CV axles?

Boots looking like $18.50 (post discount) plus shipping per axle:


I have never replaced boots on these axles, so I don't know what's involved and how complicated it is.

New axles are $64.40 plus shipping per axle. I do know how to install and these are the same axles that I have on the truck:

 

[ak diesel driver]

biggest issue with boots is finding some that last, I know the OEM ones last really well and are almost a hard plastic most of the aftermarket ones are soft. So even if you replace the whole axle you might be back in the same boat shortly, I've replaced just the boots before and it's not too bad a job

 

[Big T]

biggest issue with boots is finding some that last, I know the OEM ones last really well and are almost a hard plastic most of the aftermarket ones are soft. So even if you replace the whole axle you might be back in the same boat shortly, I've replaced just the boots before and it's not too bad a job

Yes the OEM ones lasted a long time, but the aftermarkets have generally lasted 2 to 5 years. Any Idea on the Moog replacements?

 

[Will L.]

Replacing the boot vs “new” axle Is always the debate.
“New” because many are reman.
$37vs64 is enough to be saved I would do boots. MAYBE. Cut the boots off, clean it all up. Carefully examine for any wear, chips, etc. If any wear or damage is present then get a new cv axle.

Many people buy the higher dollar rebuild kits with 4340 components and they are near bulletproof. Do some costings on them and you have basically forever parts. Except... the boots. It always comes to the rubber p.o.s. that fails.

I am horrible at searching online. But somewhere, I would think somebody has done comparison testing of differebt brand boots and has a top 10 list of boots? Maybe?

Once you do one cv axle, you’ll be amazed at the simplicity. A snap ring is the hardest part in almost any design. Just work on a bench where if you drop the thing you can find it.

There are a couple different style metal bands that secure the boot that may need a different tool for crimping or securing- but nothing crazy expensive.

Gmt400 K has the front 2, hummers get 4. And hummers eat them if offroading a driver gets the wheel spinning fast in the air then stomps the brakes of the wheel stops fast hitting the ground. The geared hub 2:1 advantage becomes a cv joint breaking disadvantage there. Almost everyone breaks 1, then they know better, myself included.

I still have that one on a shelf, awaiting a good deal a set of boots that will last. I only broke that about 11 years ago. Better $ was spent at the time to get a complete half shaft (cv axle hummer term) as the new one was $7 more than the 2 boots for it.

 

[SnowDrift]

It's really not a bad job at all, as Will said. Having a third hand is very useful, though, when it's in the vise. Two hands to hold the new boot back out of the way while the other squeezes in the new grease. The right way is probably to remove all grease, clean and dry, before the new grease goes in. We've never done it this way on any we've done, except an ATV where the boot split wide open. Normally, we only have a seeping hole or crack where we notice some grease slinging out and we don't drive through much standing water, if ever, so water infiltration is of little concern to me.

If the grease is white or looks like it has had moisture in it, it would be different. Otherwise, it it's just green, we add the new grease package and move on. Getting the cv axle out is the hardest part. If you get that far, changing the boot is a cake walk.

 

[Will L.]

A good trail fix for a torn boot is saran wrap btw. Just jack that tire up, start 1 wrap, then 1 guy spin the tire foreward while the other holds the roll guiding it on.

 

[schiker]

I basically find 3 levels of performance/value: RCV performance CV's ($$$ will give sticker shock and make OEM look good) GM OE, then 3rd most others use the neoprene boots I guess quality can vary on no. 3 but how much I don't know.

Googling I see a Hytrel rubber is a Dupont material used in OEM level boots made for lifetime. But don't find boots made with it using it as a search term.

I am in the market for replacement axles with good boots. Keep us posted with what you find.

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

To my knowledge, there is only 1 company making thermoplastic cv boots which came stock on 95-00 gmt-400 trucks. All of the others are going to be neoprene, and just will not hold up. I'm getting ready to order a set myself because my 3 year old NEW shafts have lost the cv boots.

http://www.rockfordcv.com/rcvboot.htm

 

[Will L.]

Wow, tranfered heat #1 killer?!
Yeah, seen neoprene failures in short time.

 

[Big T]

To my knowledge, there is only 1 company making thermoplastic cv boots which came stock on 95-00 gmt-400 trucks. All of the others are going to be neoprene, and just will not hold up. I'm getting ready to order a set myself because my 3 year old NEW shafts have lost the cv boots.

http://www.rockfordcv.com/rcvboot.htm

Damn, now I have to send back the MOOG boots I ordered from rockauto.com

Rockford's site is not easy to figure out. They don't designate inner vs outer and I need both.

 

[Big T]

Called Rockford and they did not have all the parts for the 8600 GVW and concluded that they must have only sold for the 7200 GVW. Now I'm even more confused. Rockauto shows different inner and outer boots by MOOG, one of which is "thermoplastic neoprene" and the other is just neoprene. There is a separate listing for ALO indicating the same boot for inner and outer on the 8600.



I punted on the order from Rockford as I need to check the GVW on both the Suburbans.

I thought the axles were the same for the K2500?

 

[THEFERMANATOR]

If you have 8 lugs, you need the 8600 pieces. Last I checked, inner and outer boots are the same for the 8600 trucks.

And it was the precision axles that I have that lost a boot at 3 years old. I need to go pull my spare axle down and measure it to see what sizes they are.

 

[Big T]

If you have 8 lugs, you need the 8600 pieces. Last I checked, inner and outer boots are the same for the 8600 trucks.

And it was the precision axles that I have that lost a boot at 3 years old. I need to go pull my spare axle down and measure it to see what sizes they are.

I have the Suretech axles.

Checked the vehicle tag and it's 8600 GVWR. Checked the boots and inner and outer look the same.

 

[Hink]

I've had a split boot for a few years now. I've been planning on replacing the boot but have been afraid to tear into it. My trepidation comes mostly from the fact that I don't have a shop to work in/weather has been crap, I don't have real good secondary transportation if something goes wrong. Which it does. And the suspension/brakes on this 3500 has always been more complex than I expect when I get into it.
By now I may need a new axle, but either way, this thread has bolstered my confidence that I can get into it and get it done.

Thank you!

 

[Big T]

I've had a split boot for a few years now. I've been planning on replacing the boot but have been afraid to tear into it. My trepidation comes mostly from the fact that I don't have a shop to work in/weather has been crap, I don't have real good secondary transportation if something goes wrong. Which it does. And the suspension/brakes on this 3500 has always been more complex than I expect when I get into it.
By now I may need a new axle, but either way, this thread has bolstered my confidence that I can get into it and get it done.

Thank you!

I had the same trepidations, but this is an easy job. However, if your boot has been split for years, I would replace the entire axle as you don’t know the extent of damage to the CV joint. I caught mine when it happened.

 

[Hink]

I had the same trepidations, but this is an easy job. However, if your boot has been split for years, I would replace the entire axle as you don’t know the extent of damage to the CV joint. I caught mine when it happened.

Yeah, that's what I'm expecting. Still not a big cost involved, but I'll look it over real good and if it's tight and smooth, I'll just boot 'er!

 

[WarWagon]

@Hink the sway bar end link are in the way to swap the CV's out. The bushings are usually shot even if they are newer. Have a set on hand...

The nut on end of the axel is not reusable. Another item to have. Replacement CV sometimes come with a new nut.

 

[ak diesel driver]

Hmmm I've reused them several times. If they don't seem to lock very much just peen the flange a little

 

[SnowDrift]

Technically, I believe, all locknuts are to be a one time use. Security Locknuts are an exception - they're a 2 piece design and can be locked and unlocked repeatedly, without failure, but I'm unsure if one is made in this size. That said, I've reused many, without fail. Axle nuts, shock bolt nuts, etc. In a pinch, they can usually be reused, but in all seriousness, WW is right - should be replaced.

 

[Big T]

Technically, I believe, all locknuts are to be a one time use. Security Locknuts are an exception - they're a 2 piece design and can be locked and unlocked repeatedly, without failure, but I'm unsure if one is made in this size. That said, I've reused many, without fail. Axle nuts, shock bolt nuts, etc. In a pinch, they can usually be reused, but in all seriousness, WW is right - should be replaced.

I reuse. They're to be Torqued to 180 lbs. I slip a 5’ floor jack handle over a breaker bar and torque them down hard. Feels like 180. Good to go. Many years running.