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Cranks but no start

Hans

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Hi I have a no start problem that I dont seem to figure out. It is a 1995 K1500 6.5TD. it has been standing without batteries for a little over three months and when I now put batteries back in and went to start it wont. It cranks good and after about 4-5 seconds sounds like it is about to start but nothing happens, get white smoke when it is trying to start so looks like it is getting fuel.
Checked and cleaned all grounds, checked all plugs and wires.
Have checked the glow plugs and all checks out with a testlight.
Tried with and without the optical sensor attached, no difference.
Took the stop solenoid out and tested and it is working.
Checked the lift pump took the hose off the intake on the IP and put in a bottle and it fills a 42oz bottle in just under a minute, attached a clear hose to the return from the IP and I barely have fuel coming out here, took about a minute to fill the clear hose in the picture up to the top, and dont have enough flow to keep the downside filled.
Is there something else that might be a problem with my IP or isnt it supposed to let more through when its not running.

What else should I check?

5659056590
 

Will L.

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3 options
Cranks speed - what rpm while Cranking?
Air in fuel
Glowplugs.

That looks like a really big clear line loop. 5” or
So is all is plenty. Really just enough to connect the line. So address that real quick. Get it so it you can see there are no bubbles.

42 oz a minute is plenty fast enough. Checking at the ip itself is smart. Anywhere else leaves questions. But a flapper from inside the rubber hose is still possible. @WarWagon might post a pic of premier example.
Sounds like fuel is ok because getting smoke.

Most likely to me : glow plug not hot enough. reading power at the glowplugs mean power is getting there, but doesn’t mean they are getting hot.
After having tested hundreds of glowplugs by ohm meter
And I am a certified journeyman electrician so how to use a quality meter is not the issue-
The ohm meter tests for glowplugs is bull crap.

I tested good readings on plugs that dont get fully hot, and had plugs glow red that didn’t ohm out correctly.

So as sucky as it is- pull the easy to reach ones and bench test them to see they heat up proper.

If you have ANYTHING other than AC Delco 60 G plugs- replace them now. Only that and 1 specific bosh plug are self limiting. And as of recently the bosch have had horrible problems. All non self regulating plugs are time
Bombs waiting to destroy your engine.

Always use antiseize on glowplug threads. Either nickle or copper.

You type fast AK DD.
 

Hans

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Thanks yes good and fast responses here. Havent had the chance to pull the glowplugs and check them yet, but the fuel is clear with no air. Crank speed seems a little low, measured with the gmtscan and the crank rpm is at 94.
 

Will L.

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Bingo.
The best starter is powermaster 9052.
You’ll think it’s a gas engine they crank so fast!

Make sure you remove and clean all battery connections and load test each battery while disconnected.

Dont buy parts until you know for sure.
 

Hans

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SUCCESS!! It is running, but keeps coming up with code 18 and 35. That combined with tired batteries and starter was probably compunding to give the no start issues. Made sure both batteries were fully charged and then used jumper cables to another running car and got enough crank speed to get it started. Havent driven it yet but let it sit and idle for 30 minutes to get everything nice and warm again.
But it keeps coming up with code 18 and 35, things that are checked already are grounds and air in fuel, os filter is removed and added ferrite cores to the cables, wiring harness is checked and ohm'ed with no issues.

Am I looking at a IP change or is there anything else I can check? Also there is a sort of knocking sound when it is running any idea what it is or am I just being paranoid and hearing things that is not there.

 

ak diesel driver

6.5 driver
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Since your already contemplating an IP change, try emptying the fuel filter and filling it with ATF and running it through. Do that 2-3 times and see if it will clean anything out.
 

Hans

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I was hoping to avoid the IP change, so what will the ATF do just lube up the pump or clean it also, so i just dump the fuel out of the filter housing fill it up with atf and crank until all the atf is through the pump and then repeat?
What is worst case scenario doing this?
 

Will L.

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It can make starting harder, and will smoke a little, which According to epa it will make trees fall onto baby seals or something like that.
Yes it cleans the ip, injectors and lubes them. Do it- good
Advice.

That hollow knocking sound.. is that an exhaust leak? On my phone so the sound isn’t the greatest.
Mechanics stethoscope helps find sound source quick.
Shy of the actual tool, a long screwdriver or 2’ of fuel hose against your ear and the other end on the suspected part. Just be mindful of moving parts like fan, pulleys, belt...
 

ak diesel driver

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If you do that you'll be starting on regular diesel run it until your sure you've run all the ATF through. Then repeat. Long term ATF use can possibly stain the optical sensor. So I wouldn't use it as an additive regularly
 

Jaryd

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Have you checked out your vacuum pump. To me that sound in the second video sounds like your vacuum pump with a broke vacuum line.
 

Hans

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THANK YOU! THANK YOU!! THANK YOU!!! The ATF did the trick didnt take long until the pump cleared up and works as it should again with no codes.
As for the sound I also believe it is from the vacuum pump although I have not been able to pinpoint it. Checked for exhaust leaks and didnt find any, all the vacuum hoses are new and I have vacuum.
 

Will L.

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Make sure you stay on top of adding lube to your fuel, maybe go 10% over recommended dose for a while, wether stanandyne, 2 stroke, or what ever you use.

Get a fuel pressure gauge mounted in the dash and tapped at ip inlet ASAP.

If that helped:
maybe you had some crud building up and the atf cleaned it,
Maybe it lubed it,
maybe it helped bump the inlet pressure because it is slightly thicker,
Or any combination of the 3.

But staying on top of it will extend the ip and injector life
 

Jaryd

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What is the reccomended amount of 2 stroke pr 10 gallons?
1/2 oz. per gallon or 1 oz for every 2 gallons is what’s mostly recommended so 5 oz. for 10 gallons.

I normally do more like 3/4 - 1 oz. per gallon of fuel
 
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