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cracked bellhousing

duramaxdude

Member
Messages
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Location
Carberry, Manitoa, Canada
so i lost my drivshaft going down the road. screwed a ujoint there was an extreme viberation as i slowed down the the rear ujoint let go. put new drivshaft on and heard some weird noise coming from the transmission. looked and the bell housing is cracked. should i get a whole new transmisson or can i just get a bell housing? how much work is it to put the bellhousing in?
 
If it is a NV4500 you can find a bell housing. I found one at car-part.com. If you have a 4L80E you will have to replace the shell. Or you can find someone that welds aluminum good and have the bell housing repaired.
 
sorry its off my lbz duramax. i have a buddy who i could get a bellhousing from. i also noticed there was oil leaking between the transfercase and tranny. is there just a seal or is it screwed to
 
When the driveshaft went, it broke your bellhousing and your 4X4 extension housing. Your going to need at a minumum the bellhousing(late 03-early 07), and an extension housing. Also the trans MUST come out to do the extension housing as it has to be stodd on end to replace the extension housing and the thust will have to be adjusted for the new housing. Also make sure and check the block adapter as they have been known to crack when this kind of damage takes place, as well as the flexplates cracking.
 
The trans endplay/thrust us adjusted with shims between the output shaft and the rear bearing in the extension housing. The flywheel housing is a bit of a pain to get off. You have to get the flex plate bolts out(a feat in and of itself as they are TIGHT!), then get the oil cooler to block adapter feed tube off, pull the rear main seal as it has a steel sleeve that rides against the crank and the seal, and then pull the housing bolts out of the block. Theres 2 O-rings between it and the block, and a block off plate on the passenger side. Also when putting it back together you have to have the special rear main seal installer as the seal and sleeve have to be pressed in simultaneously.

It's not a fun job.
 
ok thanks. im not sure how ill figure out the play on the extension housing. ill have to talk to some local guys. i am picking up an lly trannny tomorow the bell housing and extension housing are the same as me lbz? just seeing wat u think.

also will the fly wheel housing from an 02 work in an 06?
 
ok thanks. im not sure how ill figure out the play on the extension housing. ill have to talk to some local guys. i am picking up an lly trannny tomorow the bell housing and extension housing are the same as me lbz? just seeing wat u think.

also will the fly wheel housing from an 02 work in an 06?


Not 100% if the bklock adapter is the same, but I'm pretty sure they will interchange. The LLY bellhousing will work fine for an early 6 speed, and the extension housing will also work. The only difference is sometime in late 04 GM had an updated extension housing built to help resist cracking, so an LLY trans could ahve the new or old style extension housing(they interchange, but the later one is much stronger). The key to keeping this from happening is when you hear a buzz, or feel a vibration, don't ignore it. Failed u-joints is the #1 cause of broken extension housings. And if it gets to the point the driveshaft comes out, it almost always takes out the bellhousing with it. And look VERY CLOSELY at your flexplate when it's apart. They can crack, and you don't want to have to go back in and replace it afterwards.
 
it happened fast. i was just cruising down the highway when it started viberating. i went to slow down to see wat was going on thats when the drive shaft fell off. all happened in 30 sec. pretty gay if u ask me
 
Pretty likely the U joint was already toast before it let go

Sent from my SCH-I535
 
i forgot to mention that u joint had less than 200km not even a tank of fuel on it. moog 331.

how do u get that main conector of on the back of the transmisson. iim having a headace with it i dont wana break nothing. also does the tranny crossmber have to come off to take the t case down?
 
i forgot to mention that u joint had less than 200km not even a tank of fuel on it. moog 331.

how do u get that main conector of on the back of the transmisson. iim having a headace with it i dont wana break nothing. also does the tranny crossmber have to come off to take the t case down?
Musta have a snapring pop out.(not in the groove all the way)
I just replaced 2 of mine on the rear shaft,..pretty tight fit..needed to use a punch to get them to seat in the groove.
Wonder if you got the right Number joint,..mine were 330,.. GMC 07- 3500.

I just had a peak at mine. Pretty sure you got to drop the cross member and mount to get to the tranny/T-case bolts. I have to check mine for being tight as i have a leak at the joint
 
Theres 2 different U-joints that fit these trucks, and they are so close in size it is EASY to get them mixed up. Sounds like you put in a 1480 in a shaft that uses a 1410, hence the short distance before failure.
 
I got the transmission out the rear housing seems like it's in great shape. No cracks at all. I got the flex plate and fly wheel of to they are not cracked at all. Where is the best place to drain the coolant on these trucks i imagine i have to drain it to get the rear plate of the motor.

Thanks for all ur help so far guys.
 
I pull the lower radiator hose at teh water pump to drain them. Make sure and inspect everything VERY closely. When the shaft comes out it stresses things bad, and I know you don't want to have to do this job again.
 
i will check everything im taking it to a local shop to let him inspect it as well. do u have to pull the oil pan of to remove the rear fly wheel cover? i just subscried to alldata and thats wat it says.
 
I'm 99% certain the rear cover has to come off to drop the pan, so it should come off no problems.
 
For draining the coolant I tied back the RH front of the inner fender liner with the wheel off and pulled the lower hose at the radiator. Very easy to do.
 
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