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Catching blow by

Quadstar Tuning LLC

Quadstar Tuning LLC

Quadstar Tuning LLC
Messages
184
Reaction score
256
Location
PA
Has anyone come up with a creative catch can setup that can actually separate oil and water from the CDR tube? I just put an HX40 on and want to keep the intake clean but the draft tube is messy and noticeable at idle. I've read the provent can't handle this application.

Maybe something from a big rig or custom setup will work if anybody can make it?

Sent from Tapatalk
 
quadstar87 said:
Has anyone come up with a creative catch can setup that can actually separate oil and water from the CDR tube? I just put an HX40 on and want to keep the intake clean but the draft tube is messy and noticeable at idle. I've read the provent can't handle this application.

Maybe something from a big rig or custom setup will work if anybody can make it?

Sent from Tapatalk
Click to expand...
Actually, this is where you must be creative because of lack of real estate under the GMT400's hood and yes a larger capacity unit would be needed if the commonly sized Provent isn't up to the task so consider running two units or going to the next size 'up' this holds true with any of the units available..........if there is excessive blowby then that is a problem best addressed by properly repairing the cause.
 
IDK, you might take a look at the specs and call their tech support yourself before shooting them down.

Plenty of people run the 200, which is good to 335 hp.
And if that is the biggest you want to fit, just service it sooner...I could see some fitment issues with the 1,675 hp unit.

Provent makes the best non powered units there are. Powered units start at $4,000 btw and really wont fit under the hood

https://www.mann-hummel.com/fileadmin/user_upload/service/catalogues/pdf/ProVent_en_2013.pdf
 
Thanks, I'll look further into it. I wouldn't say I have excessive blow by but I do want to manage it better. I have an extremely low mile '99 engine in the stable but no reason to put it in yet.

Sent from Tapatalk
 
Perhaps I am missing something regarding the water separation part . . . Is the goal to have an early warning of a coolant leak?
 
Am sure that I am still missing something here, but is this an issue?

Can see where some water might get in the oil (from condensation when the motor cools) and then exit the CDR as vapor when the motor returns to operating temperature. The piece of the puzzle I am missing is where a minor amount vapor will cause an issue to the compressor. Also, something is telling me that the compressor can easily handle this amount of vapor given that it actively ingests humidity from the atmosphere.
 
Ok, in that case . . . :)


Looked into catch cans some time ago.

Provent gets good reviews as it apparently allows for replacement of the CDR. Seems that few go this way due to price.

Mishmoto has a good reputation with their catch can systems.

Some home-brew with dryer setups for air compressors available at the big-box home improvement stores. Those who go this route remove the filter as the vapor will likely turn it into a restriction in short order.


Have read where some modify the catch can by putting a stainless 'brillow' pad inside to increase the surface area.


For reference, I installed a Mishmoto catch can as part of my repower project. 20K miles later and it is only ~3/5 full.

One thing I did learn was that routing to the intake is important. When I had the vent tube installed at the intake's 3 O'Clock position, oil vapor collected inside the intake and was visible on the compressor. When I changed the orientation to 12 O'Clock, this went away.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Ok, in that case . . . :)


Looked into catch cans some time ago.

Provent gets good reviews as it apparently allows for replacement of the CDR. Seems that few go this way due to price.

Mishmoto has a good reputation with their catch can systems.

Some home-brew with dryer setups for air compressors available at the big-box home improvement stores. Those who go this route remove the filter as the vapor will likely turn it into a restriction in short order.


Have read where some modify the catch can by putting a stainless 'brillow' pad inside to increase the surface area.


For reference, I installed a Mishmoto catch can as part of my repower project. 20K miles later and it is only ~3/5 full.

One thing I did learn was that routing to the intake is important. When I had the vent tube installed at the intake's 3 O'Clock position, oil vapor collected inside the intake and was visible on the compressor. When I changed the orientation to 12 O'Clock, this went away.
Click to expand...

Can you show pic what you mean by 3:00 vs 12:00. Feel like I should follow, but I'm not. I have a provent 200 to install, but am following this to learn more for my install.
 
Will L. said:
Can you show pic what you mean by 3:00 vs 12:00. Feel like I should follow, but I'm not. I have a provent 200 to install, but am following this to learn more for my install.
Click to expand...
Yes please elaborate, Jay, that is intriguing. I did the TSC dryer home brew unit that BowtieButler did. Even so I still had an oily residue in my compressor until I moved my connection further away from the HX40 inlet.
 
I have a TSC unit on it now and I have never had to empty it because it doesn't do a darn thing.

Sent from Tapatalk
 
quadstar87 said:
I have a TSC unit on it now and I have never had to empty it because it doesn't do a darn thing.

Sent from Tapatalk
Click to expand...
I had the same issue, even with the additional pot scrubbers in it. Once I moved it about 3" further from the inlet it started working some. I'm not sure it's 100% effective yet but at least it's doing something now. I'm not sure if the HX40 sucks that hard or why it happens. Jay's comment has me interested as I'd say mine is at what I'd call the 3 o'clock position.
 
Will L. said:
Can you show pic what you mean by 3:00 vs 12:00.
Click to expand...

Clock reference is from facing the open end of a pipe so that it looks like a circle as opposed to looking at it from outside where it will look like a log.

Here is my current configuration:

Catch Can 001.jpg

The initial was at the 3 O'clock position (possible interpretation as on the 'side' of the pipe as opposed to currently on 'top').

IIRC the OE location of the vent tube into the intake is at the 12 O'clock position as well.
 
JayTheCPA said:
Clock reference is from facing the open end of a pipe so that it looks like a circle as opposed to looking at it from outside where it will look like a log.

Here is my current configuration:

View attachment 48535

The initial was at the 3 O'clock position (possible interpretation as on the 'side' of the pipe as opposed to currently on 'top').

IIRC the OE location of the vent tube into the intake is at the 12 O'clock position as well.
Click to expand...
I thought that's what you meant but thank you for clarifying. I'm surprised the move from 3:00 to 12:00 made a difference, but that is great information to know. I'll have to see if I can rotate mine.
 
Perhaps a vacuum/pressure gauge ran to an old oil fill cap to monitor whats really happening, hose theough the window for test driving.

Really we just dont want any pressure in the crankcase. Not sucking oil fumes is great- but if seeing any pressure (most likely during boost) is the concearn.

A guy could test multiple areas to learn highest vacuum point, but a larger hose pulling more volume less pressure evacuates more, and makes oil coalesce easier. So the highest vacuum point may not be needed. I wish someone would hurry up and invent the vacuum/ pressure inductive meter- haha.
 
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