• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

California Emission LBZ HELP PLEASE!

K

Kazz

New Member
Messages
22
Reaction score
17
Location
Utah
I have a 2006 California emission LBZ Duramax. I run a HyperTech Max Energy tune. I was wanting EFI Live from Idaho rob or some reputable tuner to help with disabling some emissions but realized the craziness happening with tuners recently. I'm not really going for performance but mostly helping the engine work the way it should and have the engine last longer than having all that soot and crap going through everything.

So, I wanted to ask what can I really do to my exhaust to prevent codes and eventually having my trany limp.

I was hoping to just put a 3in turbo down pipe with a 4in pipe with a performance cat and muffler and from what I read I don't really need an after markert intake because everything is stock and my tuner is a pretty soft tune.

Any advice or help with this would be greatly appreciated.

I just would hate for me to purchase a full 4in pipe with cat and muffler and I throw codes. I would like to put a blocker plate too but I hear these California emission trucks will pop a code and limp.

Thanks!
 
I am not up on Calif. compliant LBZs but I would suggest a Blocker plate, stay with stock downpipe, finger stick or tune revision to eliminate the EGR code and whatever 4" exhaust you want. That should be good for any streetable truck on up to around 450 hp. If you want more then you'll be risking a stock trans.
 
Thanks btfarm! I thought about doing a fingerstick and blocker plate for a long time but was worried about voiding my warranty and most of all, messing with soldering the fingerstick. Do you know of any horrible stories or any negatives on the fingerstick install?
 
What warranty? Should be expired by now. If aftermarket warranty... Don't mess with it because the second you do YOU are your own warranty station.
 
You need to verify if that warranty is good with aftermarket mods. As WW mentioned almost (if not all) use that as basis for voided warranty- your current tune could already have warranty in the trash can.
 
Thousands, upon thousands of fingersticks are in use and I don't think I've ever heard of any problems with them. As to warranty, I doubt anybody is going to even know about a blocker plate and definitely not the FS.
 
Thanks for the info everyone! I bought the tune with the truck so its included as is, as well as the lift I have on it. They are all covered. Its an awesome warranty and I got hooked up and just paid cost for it. I am most likely going to just put in the fingerstick and blocker plate along with a turbo down pipe and 4in exhaust muffler system or cat back. Thanks again everyone I appreciate all the advice and wisdom.
 
The only problem's with the finger stick are people using crimps instead of solder. Don't mess with your stock intake box, it's a great system that is good for 500hp at the wheels without trouble. The hole in your fender that supplies the intake is a bit restrictive as many have opened them up and seen improvements. For an exhaust just run a regular down pipe back system, you'll see no difference with an aftermarket down pipe except for the work you did and your wallet will be lighter. For a cat, if you're in Cali or a state with emissions, you'll want either a high flow magna flow unit, or an lmm cat. The lmm cat is a higher flow unit than your stock one, should pass emissions easy, and shouldn't cost much if you find somebody selling there old one. When you do the blocker plate make sure and put it between the egr cooler and gasket so the gasket is sealing the pressure side. For your trans, I would swap out your fluid for transynd, and take it easy on the power. 240k miles is alot of miles, and I really wouldn't reccomend doing a shift kit with that many miles.
 
Try Dirty Hooker Diesel, Tony Burkhardt's company is reputable. And like Ferman said, Good solder splices are imperative. I did mine over 215k ago
 
I tried looking up a finger stick kit at dirty hooker diesel but couldn't find it so I just went with a Kennedy diesel kit plus I know hes been doing them for a while and is highly recommended. My next step will be probably a emission legal down pipe and 4in exhaust muffler system. Thanks guys. I will post updates when I get everything done and let you guys know how things are going.
 
btfarm said:
Thousands, upon thousands of fingersticks are in use and I don't think I've ever heard of any problems with them. As to warranty, I doubt anybody is going to even know about a blocker plate and definitely not the FS.
Click to expand...

Depends on the extended warranty company and "what failed". Some P r I c k companies will even ask about "tire size" and require a door sticker picture showing the optional tire size was from the factory. Been - there... So just saying. Injectors $5500.00 , engine $10,000. They are likely going to send an inspector out and tuners, blockers, etc. for a diesel is pretty common knowledge. You pay to play and get lucky if you pull one over on warranty anymore. In no way judging IMO an improvement to reliability here, but, to save a buck the odds are good modifications can deny your warranty claim.
 
I just did a California emissions test with my 06 LBZ. Cali is definitely getting stricter on diesels. Blocker plate and finger stick is good if you can hide the finger stick from view. the blocker plate will need to come out when you get it tested and stock tune will need to be put back in. As Ferm said, downpipe back exhaust is good. I ended up doing a Banks hot side pipe which is CARB legal.
They do check the computer for modifications so be sure your stock tune is loaded.

Fresh fluid and keep changing the spin on filter and you should be good. go easy on the throttle in 5th/6th gear, those are the most likely ones to limp.

Good luck.
 
Wow! I didn't know warranty companies go that far! I can u understand why but never had a warranty company do that to me before in the past.

BigDog, what you mentioned is exactly what I was thinking of doing. Doing as clean work as possible on the finger stick and rewrap all of it and make it look like it wasn't touched and remove the blocker when I test and have a carb legal turbo down pipe and exhaust system. Thanks guys! I will really take into consideration the whole warranty thing as well.
 
I wouldn't even THINK of doing a down pipe if it was mine, but that's me. I'm running a stock downpipe, and I'm willing to bet I'm pushing more than most for a daily driver on a mostly stock setup. It just isn't needed with a stock turbo.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
I wouldn't even THINK of doing a down pipe if it was mine, but that's me. I'm running a stock downpipe, and I'm willing to bet I'm pushing more than most for a daily driver on a mostly stock setup. It just isn't needed with a stock turbo.
Click to expand...
Agreed. I still have stock down pipe but Changed the hot side boost tube. Not sure how much it changes, but this truck seems a lot more responsive than my dually was.
 
Hmm, interesting. The stock seems so restrictive. So theres no benefits from a new turbo down pipe? Not even better turbo, engine sound, or air flow? Like I said before I'm not going for major performance just want my truck to last as long as it should with out the EGR and I wouldn't actually mind having a bit more turbo sound and growl but not loud and obnoxious. I don't want to be disrespectful to my neighbors and elderly around me because I work a lot of odd hours.
 
Actually I would love more acceleration response and quicker turbo spool. Would you guys recommend the hot side boost tube and inlet boost manifold for that?
 
Understand the down pipe in many factory set ups, like all the gm 6.5 turbo trucks, vans, hummers, etc all had too small of down pipes. It is a common thing in trucks to have it too small. The engineer vs penny pincher went in the win side on this engine for once. It is just generic hot rodding to always change it because it is usually wrong. Like he mentioned- until you put on a lot bigger turbo, leave it.

Imo look towards muffler upgrade for the sound you are after. That is what silences turbo and over all exhaust sound the most.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top