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Blow By

KWahl

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I've got a GMC 2500 with almost 400,00 miles on it and now getting some blow by. Any suggestions on resolving it? I've seen some posts that says using fuel and oil additives would help reduce the blow by. It's not bad but I don't want to leave it and it get worse, especially if there is something that I can do. I do plan on upgrading soon, just not now.
 

Twisted Steel Performance

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
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Frankly there is nothing you can pour in it that will fix it. At 400k miles it's tired and well worn, rings and cylinders are wore out. Simple fact is either plan a full rebuild or trade it on something else. For your info a true 100% plus build will or should be in the 8k range and up.
 

Will L.

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There is a product called “engine restore” that when tested shows slight improvement but won’t solve it.

For the blow by loosing oil- get rid of the cdr, install a provent200 in its place. (They make many sizes, the 200 is correct for us)
It is the most effective “catch can” available. You can buy the ebay knock off to save money, but throw away the ebay filter inside and buy the real provent filter. The only bay filter doesn’t work well, but the provent filter fits in the knock off housing.

You could modify the oil pan and make it an auto return but for this engine that is nearing death- I wouldn’t. Just check the can once a week and after a while you will learn when it’s full. Just drain it into a bottle and pour it back in the engine.




Here is how to drain it to pour the oil back in. I suggest adding a thread on cap to the ball valve to keep it clean so you can reuse the oil.
 

KWahl

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Thanks for the input, I guess I just wanted confirmation on what I already feared. It’s been a good truck and is still dependable and I’m just struggling on letting loose of the $$ to replace it.
 

MrMarty51

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Thanks for the input, I guess I just wanted confirmation on what I already feared. It’s been a good truck and is still dependable and I’m just struggling on letting loose of the $$ to replace it.
At 400,000 miles a dealership would give nothing for a trade in on it. They might tell You blah blah boablahblah about how much they are giving You but in reality it is $000,000.01
Drive the old beast, pour in a bottle or two of that additive and use some Stanadyne fuel supplement and just drive it.
I do want to get that provent 200 for My truck and it has literally no blow by.
I would also like to dismantle the enjun and add a set of those gapless rings but that too all takes a lot of money and thats something I dont have.
 

Will L.

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Just where he chose to.

You can either make it auto drain or just have it hold the oil (usually a long hose down with a cap) and pour it back in yourself as needed. So placement depends on how you want to address that.
Then to promote less oil even making it into the can, the farther away the can is from the valve cover, the better- so long as you dont create a “p trap” and you have good airflow in your hose system.
 

Will L.

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Hummer layout is different than a trucks. Centermount turbo, Much tighter area, etc.
But so near radiator on the passenger side because air filter is still on passenger side so running the hose is easy.

You want the highest ‘vacuum’ into the can possible. In racing an actual vacuum generating pump is used, so the hose from intake tube to can should be short. But you are playing engineer so imo make things adjustable when starting out. Once you learn what the best option is- then get rid of the bailing wire holding it and build a bracket

You don’t want it next to the turbo. Heat and plastic not going together with flammable liquid inside is probably a bad combo. Haha.

And DO NOT use the auto drain tied in with the turbo drain. You don’t want the turbo oil drain flow competing for free flow. I suppose someone could fabricate a new cover plate that has two separate tubes that wont interfere with each other somehow- but that sounds like more work to me than an oil pan bushing install.
 
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