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BEST OIL FOR A .6.5

I don't thing its too finicky just have to change it more often than other trucks of era because it holds less oil to dilute contaminates.

Don't know what oil analysis has shown but never heard lifter noise or much change in usage for Rotella T, Delo 400, Mobile Delvac, or even Wally World oil. Have noticed it starts to use it a bit more near end of change during long drives at higher rpm and boost.
 
Keeping dirt out via a good air filter and leak free intake is more important than the engine oil.

UOA and cutting oil filters open is part of a total maintenance inspection. High silicon in UOA means you used gasket in a tube or have an intake dust leak. This is more important than any brand as dust will eat your engine alive. Coolant will kill your bearings quick. Only a lack of oil is quicker than coolant in oil.

Making sure you have a good Non-FRAM Group manufactured and warranted oil filter is critical.

Mobil1 is made by the FRAM Group - YUCK!!!
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/mobile-1-oil-filter-failure-or-defect.44531/

Bosch Purolator aka Tear-O-Lator
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/bosch-purolator-oil-filter-failure.44117/

Good read over on the TDR of someone who fought FRAM to rebuild his 6.7 after the Orange Can Of Death failed and took his engine out.(Link) The FRAM Group approved the claim and the 3rd party administrator co gave him such a run around I wouldn't use free The FRAM Group toilet paper esp. with the "we don't give a s#it" about the defective Mobil1 oil filter I posted above.

I would say Wix, but, their plastic Duramax fuel filters leak air and made me walk once. I do use Wix and Wix XP oil filters without issue.

When towing or other "severe duty" the oil change interval is 2500 miles! The small crankcase capacity has something to do with it, but, the bigger concern is how dirty the engine runs and how much of that dirt (soot) gets past the rings. Visibly cleaner oil can be had by using gapless rings.

If you are running a road draft tube vs. a CDR oil odor is a concern as some of the new CJ4 oils literally stink due to additive packages.

Synthetic oil is an abused marketing term. Make sure you know what you are really buying. The net benefit is better oil stability at extended high temperatures. Yet it will leak more esp. at the age/heat hardened oil cooler hoses.

Cold to me is a hot summer day to some others, but, here is some cold oil flow info:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...bility-in-a-6-2-internal-oil-flow-info.41477/

What brand of oil is like what religion are you before you die. It's best to stick to the same brand as your engine gets used to it. Switching oils is like switching religions. Switching to synthetic or other brands can mess up your UOA trends. Like switching to Royal Purple thin synthetic oil (yuck) can flash off copper from the oil cooler on some engines - not a problem per say but the UOA spike report will give you a grey hair or two.

I used to run just what was on sale till the RP copper UOA spike.
 
Last edited:
Only oil I had problems with was the castrol diesel oil. I was burning over a quart every 1000 miles with it, went back to rotella and only used a quart every 5000 miles.
 
DUSTINS6.5 said:
Well my oil cooler lines are leaking but I use about 1xtra quart every oil change which is every 3500 to 4500
Click to expand...

Leaking oil cooler lines are a ticking time bomb. You can't shut the engine down fast enough to prevent damage if they blow out.

1 Quart every 500 miles is normal oil consumption for all the 6.5's I have owned. Running hard and hot the oil just boils off and is sucked out by the CDR system. This is in addition to the quart of TC-WC ashless 2 stroke thrown in the fuel tank for the 500 miles.
 
WarWagon said:
Leaking oil cooler lines are a ticking time bomb. You can't shut the engine down fast enough to prevent damage if they blow out.

1 Quart every 500 miles is normal oil consumption for all the 6.5's I have owned. Running hard and hot the oil just boils off and is sucked out by the CDR system. This is in addition to the quart of TC-WC ashless 2 stroke thrown in the fuel tank for the 500 miles.
Click to expand...
How is consumption with the gapless rings? My rebuild uses virtually no oil.
 
NVW said:
How is consumption with the gapless rings? My rebuild uses virtually no oil.
Click to expand...

Mine was an overhaul (rather than a rebuild) where only the broken parts were replaced. New rings, pistons, and high mile used heads off that worn out engine. So can't really say in fairness as the heads were not rebuilt or given new steam seals. You know the 350's that would smoke on startup when they needed valve steam seals? This engine attempts to burn it and will smoke with no fuel (ip wires off) after sitting and spinning it over.

I run the 15w-50 for better hot oil pressure and hope it's not the mains block cracks causing the pressure loss. That said it will use a quart every 500-1000 miles depending on how hard I run it. Just because it isn't towing doesn't mean I take it easy on it.

Prior to the worm clamp incident it was a fresh rebuild and would use oil when towing. The 2nd ring never seated properly in it.

I do have to pull the CDR off to see any blowby what so ever and that's with 30K or so on the rings. It does have a cylinder that chugs a little more than the others.

I really should put the 6.2 oil fill CDR system on it and see if the oil consumption goes down.
 
SANY0178.JPG SANY0166.JPG
WarWagon said:
Keeping dirt out via a good air filter and leak free intake is more important than the engine oil.

UOA and cutting oil filters open is part of a total maintenance inspection. High silicon in UOA means you used gasket in a tube or have an intake dust leak. This is more important than any brand as dust will eat your engine alive. Coolant will kill your bearings quick. Only a lack of oil is quicker than coolant in oil.

Making sure you have a good Non-FRAM Group manufactured and warranted oil filter is critical.

Mobil1 is made by the FRAM Group - YUCK!!!
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/mobile-1-oil-filter-failure-or-defect.44531/

Bosch Purolator aka Tear-O-Lator
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/threads/bosch-purolator-oil-filter-failure.44117/

Good read over on the TDR of someone who fought FRAM to rebuild his 6.7 after the Orange Can Of Death failed and took his engine out.(Link) The FRAM Group approved the claim and the 3rd party administrator co gave him such a run around I wouldn't use free The FRAM Group toilet paper esp. with the "we don't give a s#it" about the defective Mobil1 oil filter I posted above.

I would say Wix, but, their plastic Duramax fuel filters leak air and made me walk once. I do use Wix and Wix XP oil filters without issue.

When towing or other "severe duty" the oil change interval is 2500 miles! The small crankcase capacity has something to do with it, but, the bigger concern is how dirty the engine runs and how much of that dirt (soot) gets past the rings. Visibly cleaner oil can be had by using gapless rings.

If you are running a road draft tube vs. a CDR oil odor is a concern as some of the new CJ4 oils literally stink due to additive packages.

Synthetic oil is an abused marketing term. Make sure you know what you are really buying. The net benefit is better oil stability at extended high temperatures. Yet it will leak more esp. at the age/heat hardened oil cooler hoses.

Cold to me is a hot summer day to some others, but, here is some cold oil flow info:
http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/th...bility-in-a-6-2-internal-oil-flow-info.41477/

What brand of oil is like what religion are you before you die. It's best to stick to the same brand as your engine gets used to it. Switching oils is like switching religions. Switching to synthetic or other brands can mess up your UOA trends. Like switching to Royal Purple thin synthetic oil (yuck) can flash off copper from the oil cooler on some engines - not a problem per say but the UOA spike report will give you a grey hair or two.

I used to run just what was on sale till the RP copper UOA spike.
Click to expand...

I never heard that Fram was making Mobil-1 filters, but I'm not sure about much these days of cutting cost. Personally I use AC Delco PF1218CL and Mobil 10/30 in the 88 K5 Blazer and Mobile 5W/30 in my 90 Silverado fleet side pickup. I'm not too sure, but I've never had any trouble using Mobil products. As far as for Fram, I'd go on using a dirty filter over installing any Fram product. I'm 64 and back in the sixties they made a good products, but once in the eighties the bean counters took over and the product/s quality went all to hell. I don't know how they stay in business. But the average motorist hasn't a clue what the quality of a product is. If I got a doubt about Mobil products, I'd go with Royal Purple in oil and filters.

Here's the two I've restored over the last 6 years.

This country is run like a blind man's ice water stand.
 
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