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Anyone use this clutch kit

Twisted Steel Performance

Anything worth doing is worth overdoing.
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Location
Pauline, SC
No experience but I did see that unit and am curious. Especially the part about being ceramic buttons that are suppose to be smooth lift off. I don't need the holding power but maybe the center section is tougher than LuK's disc????

I hate going by just the picture but the pilot bearing looks like the oilite bronze type. Are you going to coat the snout of the input shaft for low friction?

Anyone have experience with this pilot bearing? When I used the GM pilot install tool it left my pilot sticking out of the crank bore by appearances similar to the larger od on this bearing?????

56318
 
I prefer the bronze over rollers, when the rollers give out it takes the shaft with it...

Last build I used SB kit, it worked well but had a small chatter on lift off pulling heavy..

I half to have what ever clutch kit I plan to run so I can have the rotating assembly balanced..

I will have the tranny rebuilt when the motor is ready to install, I plan to coat every piece of it and let the pros put it back together.. but that will be this fall..
 
No experience but I did see that unit and am curious. Especially the part about being ceramic buttons that are suppose to be smooth lift off. I don't need the holding power but maybe the center section is tougher than LuK's disc????

I hate going by just the picture but the pilot bearing looks like the oilite bronze type. Are you going to coat the snout of the input shaft for low friction?

Anyone have experience with this pilot bearing? When I used the GM pilot install tool it left my pilot sticking out of the crank bore by appearances similar to the larger od on this bearing?????

View attachment 56318
I dont have experience with that particuliar bearing, but Jeep used one like it back in the 80's with the tiny inner bearing and a sleeve, and they were nothing but trouble. They switched over to one with larger needle's in it like GM's oem.
 
Does anyone have experience with the below clutch, good, bad?

Ceramic clutches need alot less clamping force to hold. When cold they work well, but they QUICKLY heat up, and once they do all of them I've driven got grabby. They also swell quite a bit when they heat up. They used to make the dual friction clutch with ceramic on one side, and organic woven on the other side. I always liked how those clutches released and they held good in all of them I put in. The nice thing about ceramic(or puck clutches as they used to call them) is they can be slipped with no damage to them. They're designed to slip, heat up, and then grab REALLY tight. I know we ran one in our drag car with an adjusteable pressure plate, we set ot to slip on the launch, and then it would lock in FULLY after maybe a second of progressive engagement (this was with a clutchless 5 speed).
 
I have 2 clutches from centerforce that are dual friction. I really like them. One in my work van behind a 4bt and one in a 70 Ford pickup with a 428 cj mildly built. The intial engagement is kinda sticky, doesn't get jerky at all, but after that feels like a normal friction clutch
 
No experience with it in a pickup, but in a 79 W900a long hood Kenworth with a 3408 V8 that I am lucky enough to get paid to drive twice a year, it has a ceramic button clutch, and there is basically no feathering the clutch. its grabby, but it holds well.

I think the rear main seal weeps, or the flywheel face rusts, or something that doesnt leave a clean surface, and at the start of each season it will slip once when you get on it with the first load, but then you let off and let it grab and it never slips again.
 
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