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Anyone have the Peninsular Diesel glow plug controller wiring diagram?

Hink

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Hi all,

I'm a long ways away from home and my glows aren't coming on. I'm sure it's something simple but I don't remember the wiring system of Peninsulars controller off hand to really check it.
Anyone have the diagram that they can scan or pdf?
 

Will L.

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Derp? Come on, what's the story?

Is it as good as me throwing my rig in reverse and thinking "oh no, what's wrong?" Then realizing the ignition was still just in glow plug position, not having started the engine?

Or the opposite - my sun gets in the wife Escalade, turns the key on, and it looking for the "WAIT" light to go out somewhere...
 

Hink

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You are shockingly astute my Hummer encased, 6.5 abusing friend.

When looking for a switched hot for my tach and glow plug controller, I screwed up and used the hot for my veggie system. So, when the veg is running, I have no tach or glows. No big deal to have no glows once it's running and no tach isn't a deal breaker. The problem today was that I forgot to switch back to diesel after a long run yesterday so the power was off to the glows until I realized that I just have to switch the veg off and start like normal.
Except she doesn't like to be left on veggie over night. She burps and farts, pisses and moans until the veg is ran through and clean diesel is cycled then she smooths out.
 

Husker6.5

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Now, if you ran honest Biodiesel instead of WVO, you wouldn't have that problem. Just sayin'. . .
 

jrsavoie

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You are shockingly astute my Hummer encased, 6.5 abusing friend.

When looking for a switched hot for my tach and glow plug controller, I screwed up and used the hot for my veggie system. So, when the veg is running, I have no tach or glows. No big deal to have no glows once it's running and no tach isn't a deal breaker. The problem today was that I forgot to switch back to diesel after a long run yesterday so the power was off to the glows until I realized that I just have to switch the veg off and start like normal.
Except she doesn't like to be left on veggie over night. She burps and farts, pisses and moans until the veg is ran through and clean diesel is cycled then she smooths out.

Are you running filter WVO?

How long have you been running it?

I've never heard of long term success in running WVO in a 6.5
 

Will L.

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@jrsavoie ?? the only engine more prefered than the 6.2/6.5 (db2)for wvo/ wmo is the Mercedes IDI.
If wmi is not present then cleaning the injectors from coking becomes a pm thing.

The key is filtration. A couple passes through a centrifuge eliminates the bad stuff and these engines are good to go. That was one of the reasons the military went with the Chevy over Dodge with the pickups for the cucv is it followed suit with the multi fuel engine. When the request went out for the replacement rig that later became the hmmwv, on their list was ability to run multifuel, the 6.2 had lots of parts available by then and met multifuel request.
 

jrsavoie

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I've still never heard long term success running WVO.

Everybody that I've seen posting about it loves it for a year or 2 and then they have a gummed up mess. Just what I've seen and people that have posted.

Apparently they never filtered good enough
 

Will L.

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There's a group in Vegas that I met up with about 6 years ago. They are on some wvo forum. One of the guys was asking info from a dealer tech that put me in contact with them asking for help about injectors. I met up with about a dozen of them as the dealer tech billed me as an injector expert if some kind-??? Wrong.

Anyways I still get calls from 1 guy that goes off-roading in my area and occasionally I go out with him and his buddy's to get them unstuck or flipped back over.

There are plenty of people that run it year after year in daily drivers. Yes filteration is way important-then learning what to mix in if not doing the start and stop on diesel fuel thing.

Most people don't like to advertise they run it because future buyers of their rig shy away thinking it hurts when it is actually better for it 90% of the time. Then the folks worried about getting a tax evasion charge for not paying road taxes on fuel- similar to running red dye diesel on road.

I recently met a hummer owner in Vegas that owns or works for a hvac company. He gets 55gallon drums of AC oil (pag iirc). That's what he runs- he just cuts it 50/50 with diesel. He said more than that and it's a drop in power, but has ran it pure. And he has a ds4, so it must be some clear stuff. On diesel 14mpg, mix he is 13 mpg. But when you figure cost it's like he is around 19.5 since its 50% free. He offered to drop me off 1 or more drums of it when he sells his hummer- he's headed to a sports car next.

My thing I lean toward is wmo, but I'm friends with multiple shop owners so I could get more than I want. Run that threw a cf and cut with 10% gas or 20% diesel and done. Just mix fuel in while wmo is still hot from the cf treatment.

Also with fuel price down currently, it doesn't feel as painful, so some home brew people are just buying pump currently.

Could there be an alternative fuel section here? Hink's thread kinda took a hard right- sorry Hink.
 

Hink

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Are you running filter WVO?

How long have you been running it?

I've never heard of long term success in running WVO in a 6.5
Holy cow, I've been running it for almost 10 years now. 10 years. I'd say that's pretty successful. It's always interesting how misinformation gets proliferated on the internet and this is no different. Somebody will try something, it doesn't work so they report that it won't work as the only conclusion and never even consider the possibility that they did something wrong.

I did have an issue with the first set up I had. As most know, you use heat to thin the oil for the injectors to be able to atomize the fuel, so getting the fuel hot is the main issue. I had a component in my system called a Veg-Therm that is a good product but it seemed to get my oil TOO hot from what I can tell. My IP seized and sheared the shaft. All I know for certain is that I took off the Veg-Therm and have been running it ever since. I could have stopped there, reported with the rest that it doesn't work and moved on but I knew the theory was sound and there was no reason why it shouldn't work.

The only other things that can be attributed to the veg is...
1- If I let the truck sit for several months (doesn't happen often at all), the oil can form a coating on the inside of the lines and break off, plugging the lines. A frustrating but minor issue solved by cleaning out the fuel pick up.
2- When I put the optimizer in last year, I had the injectors gone through and they were chewing my ass out for them being so crappy after only 60,000 miles when they found out that I run veg (they weren't really too bad and I run WMI now so that should be the end of that issue). I told them that with the money I save in fuel costs, I could afford to put a brand new Bosch set in every year and still be way ahead. And on that note...

Years ago when I converted the truck, I was highly motivated. I was in apprentice school for IBEW local 48 and didn't make dick for money. I was going backwards fast. With the distances I was driving to get to jobs, I was spending over $600 a month just for fuel. It was my single largest bill in my budget at the time. After the conversion, my fuel costs dropped to about $100 a month. By my calculations, that's $6000 a year in my pocket. Now admittedly, I'm just a union hand so I could be off on my math there but that sure seems like a heck of a lot of money. As a matter of fact, I can even add up for the last 10 years and figure that I've saved $60,000 in fuel costs. Even if I take into account that I don't always put that many miles on my rig and cut it in half, that's still $30,000 I've kept in my pocket. Waaay more than the ~$8000 I just put in her for the Optimizer and new transmission. I figure I got those for free. And btw, the truck needed a new motor before I started running veg.

At first I used a paper element filter that did a good enough job but was pretty manual-effort intensive. A couple years ago I invested in a centrifuge system and love it.

As for the bio-diesel option, I sure don't look at is as one better than the other. The forgetting to switch is a very rare occurrence and a minor issue at best (except when I'm being a boob and don't even notice in this case). My buddy that designed the initial system and I looked at both options and decided that the process of making the bio wasn't something we wanted to get into at the time. Essentially, you have two options... Convert the fuel, or convert the rig. If you convert the fuel, amongst other disadvantages, you're stuck at home for the most part. I just towed my fifth wheel across the Rockies 1300 miles and had all the fuel I wanted just by pulling up to a country cafe and filling up with their oil (I have a portable filtration system). I will likely look into bio later though as It would be pretty cool to start the rig on my own bio and then switch to my own veg. That would be the ideal set-up, cold weather notwithstanding.

jrsavoie, I'm glad you asked the question. I didn't know people were unaware that veg really does work. I'll work on starting a thread going into a little more detail than here of my system and results.
 
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Hink

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@jrsavoie ?? the only engine more prefered than the 6.2/6.5 (db2)for wvo/ wmo is the Mercedes IDI.
If wmi is not present then cleaning the injectors from coking becomes a pm thing.

The key is filtration. A couple passes through a centrifuge eliminates the bad stuff and these engines are good to go. That was one of the reasons the military went with the Chevy over Dodge with the pickups for the cucv is it followed suit with the multi fuel engine. When the request went out for the replacement rig that later became the hmmwv, on their list was ability to run multifuel, the 6.2 had lots of parts available by then and met multifuel request.
And btw Will, I also have a Mercedes 240D that I'm going to work on converting this year. : )>
 

Will L.

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Nice Hink.
To the folks who just wonder about it, like Hink and myself on flip sides of it- he modifies the rig, my theory is leave the rig alone and just do the fuel. There are options out there for everyone's application.

If anyone is wanting to make synthetic fuel from plastic by pyrolysis, let me know. It's an undertaking but interesting.
 

Will L.

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Kinda sad, gubmint getting in the way, and horribly mismanaged outfit. We made the equipment work and produced great quality fuel. Major buyers lined up, one refinery I went to asking for all we can make and then some. But looks like it's not going to happen from the outfit I was working for. Now the owner is chasing seperating mixed fuels instead- I knew once I left it was going down hill.
 

jrsavoie

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I've talked to quite a few people that apparently tried WVO in the wrong way. They all ended up with stuff plugged up.

I've been running 11% Bio since the 90's sometime when I could first get delivered. Sometimes more sometimes less. But mostly 11%. Sometimes as much as 90%.

What I have personally seen of filtered WVO looked like a dirty fry kitchen. Grease and muck in the lines and things getting plugged up. I never saw anybody actually post up about long term success with a 6.5 and electronic injection
 

Hink

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I've talked to quite a few people that apparently tried WVO in the wrong way. They all ended up with stuff plugged up.

I've been running 11% Bio since the 90's sometime when I could first get delivered. Sometimes more sometimes less. But mostly 11%. Sometimes as much as 90%.

What I have personally seen of filtered WVO looked like a dirty fry kitchen. Grease and muck in the lines and things getting plugged up. I never saw anybody actually post up about long term success with a 6.5 and electronic injection
Here's a pic I just took of oil I filtered. I think this was with the paper element system too, so the oil I filter with the centrifuge is even better.
20160605_125533.jpg
 

Will L.

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@Hink. The desired waterpump is a spin on fanclutch, not bolt on.
Plugging the holes in the bumper allows less air to the cooling stack and can cause heat issues. In snow land some people get away with it, but no one in the desert does.
When is the last time you removed your cooling stack and cleaned out the debris and dirt?
Something else but my train jumped the tracks.

@jrsavoie If you can look at the fuel and tell it is not diesel by sight alone, it is not filtered correctly. See how clear Hink's is? That's mandatory.
 

Hink

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I did think of one thing more... I had bumped up my timing before I left, as well. I'll drop it down a notch before I leave.
Am I thinking correctly that it should run cooler that way?
 

Hink

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Plugging the holes in the bumper allows less air to the cooling stack and can cause heat issues.
I didn't write that correctly, I'm not plugging the holes themselves, I'm plugging the holes that were cut in the back of the openings that allow the air to just pass through rather than be routed up into the radiator.
Radiator is new and cleanish as a whistle (just a few thousand miles on it after the trip).
 
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