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AC High Side Valve Removal?

Big T

Big T

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Fullerton, CA
How do you remove this:

attachment.php


When I removed the plastic cap, it dumps the refrigerant. I'm told it's just a dust cap and the valve is not supposed to leak like that. Explains all my problems with the AC system. I put a wrench to it, but can't break it free. The base looks like it's casted in place. Does it split at the nut?
 
Last edited:
Put a wrench on the very botom end, and use a pair of channel locks at the very top and it will come out.
 
THEFERMANATOR said:
Put a wrench on the very botom end, and use a pair of channel locks at the very top and it will come out.
Click to expand...

So it splits at the nut? Bottom is permanently affixed to the hose assembly? What causes it to stick so tightly?

After destroying my evaporator, I was reluctant to go after this.
 
SHo nuff- THEFERMANATOR is correct. I just replaced mine about 6 weeks ago. Bought part at Napa for roughly 6 bucks. Don't put the new plastic cap on it too tight- it will break. Ask me how I know... it is a dust cover only!
 
Yup, been there done that.

Right at the red line.

These connectors don't have the same schrader valve that the old R12 systems used.
These are a little plastic or ??? check ball.

The seat either gets dirty or damaged ????? and then leaks.

Some time you can poke the ball with a suitable BLUNT instrument and get them to stop leaking, otherwise it's blow the system down, replace the valve and recharge.

Missy
 
Thanks All. It was exactly as Theferminator and WarWagon (via e-mail) said. Splits at the red line. Grabbed above it with some vice grips and it removed easily. The flange above the red line has some nut facings which I used to torque in the new own. New valve was less than $6 at NAPA. 4.5 more cans of R134a and it's blowing cool. Also caught a slight leak at the compressor switch on the dryer. The switch just needed to be torqued down. Hopefully, I'm done with this for awhile. Been a learning curve, but with the help on this here board, I made it down.
 
There is a special socket for removing that. Almost 9x out of 10 if you f with that fitting it will leak so replacing it is almost a given when servicing a GM system.. It is deceiving how the nut looks. I think everyone who does A/C work has probably mauled one the 1st time around thinking it comes apart between the nuts..
 
Acesneights1 said:
There is a special socket for removing that. Almost 9x out of 10 if you f with that fitting it will leak so replacing it is almost a given when servicing a GM system.. It is deceiving how the nut looks. I think everyone who does A/C work has probably mauled one the 1st time around thinking it comes apart between the nuts..
Click to expand...

Don't forget that quite a few FORDS used it as well.
 
Acesneights1 said:
There is a special socket for removing that. Almost 9x out of 10 if you f with that fitting it will leak so replacing it is almost a given when servicing a GM system.. It is deceiving how the nut looks. I think everyone who does A/C work has probably mauled one the 1st time around thinking it comes apart between the nuts..
Click to expand...

Yes, NAPA's manuals had it listed as OEM for both GM and Ford.

Unfortunately, after charging the AC system, it leaked down again. The hose from the compressor to the dryer was wet with oil at the aluminum crimp over the rubber. This showed up under the UV light and was wet to touch. At this point I need to take it in to a shop with an electronic leak sniffer as I cannot find a place to rent one. Tired of charging up the system only to have it leak down. It's like I find the leak and then charge it up and the next weakest link in the system blows.:???:

Oh well, it has been the coolest summer in 77 years in SoCal, so it hasn't been so bad.
 
Big T said:
Yes, NAPA's manuals had it listed as OEM for both GM and Ford.

It's like I find the leak and then charge it up and the next weakest link in the system blows.:???:

Oh well, it has been the coolest summer in 77 years in SoCal, so it hasn't been so bad.
Click to expand...

1- granted its 15 years old like mine, but the more I work on my Suburban the more clear GM's bankruptcy becomes.

2- don't tell that to the lame stream media, according to them the hot summer we are having in the eastern 1/2 of the lower 48 is certified proof the world is ending due to our tailpipes.

back on topic, I totally feel your pain. Went through 3 recharges before I finally got mine right. (I say that with both fingers crossed).
 
And I thought I had a bad year for AC...

Hoses, leak at compressor, leaky compressor, condenser times 2, compressor clutch scattered on reman compressor, fan clutch times 2, better fan times 2, burned off blower motor wires, bad motor, hole in blower box from bad squirrel cage, resistor pack, bad defrost mode motor and jammed defroster door.

But wait the summer isn't over!
 
Little green bubbles on base of this valve

My 97 needs a recharge every year (and then works fine) and now is needing a can added every month or so

This valve seem to be the culprit

I modded this picture to show what is happening

Time to replace whole line? Anybody ever "peen" a leak closed in this area and have it hold?
AC Valve.jpg
 
TMHark said:
My 97 needs a recharge every year (and then works fine) and now is needing a can added every month or so

This valve seem to be the culprit

I modded this picture to show what is happening

Time to replace whole line? Anybody ever "peen" a leak closed in this area and have it hold?
View attachment 21167
Click to expand...

Replace that valve. It's less than $6 at NAPA.
 
Big T said:
Replace that valve. It's less than $6 at NAPA.
Click to expand...

After the last leak down, I found oil at the point where the rubber hose is crimped into the aluminum behind the compressor. It showed up under the UV light and it was wet to touch:

2e252e4b.jpg
 
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