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97 6.5 tune and solenoid clash

Tmantrucking74

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I have a 1997 k2500 with a non egr motor I swapped to an hx35w I have my boost tuned down at the moment but my tune calls for more but when tuned it still had a gm8

A little back story I bought truck from friend after it had tune and turbo master installed with studs and supporting fuel

We had a oil pump fail and split the crank in 3

I kept the Ip and swapped a rebuilt non egr motor in

I forgot to add the wastegate solenoid because I was new.


Question if I install the solenoid and close off the vac lines am I still going to pull a code if so how do assess the situation with out a new tune
 

MrMarty51

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First with a vacuum gauge be sure that the vacuum pump is functioning.
Then install and hook to the solenoid and another tube/hose to tje actuator.
If it does in fact have a tune, there should be no codes thrown, unless it has boosted over the threshold of the tune.
On another note. If You do have a TM(turbo master) why not just install that, then, have a functioning boost gauge and adjust the boost upwards until it gets to about 12 PSI maximum.
Then too, there should be no codes thrown with the tune.
 

MrMarty51

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If it now is running a stock tune, like I did when I got a ATT turbo. I left the solenoid and everything in place, plugged the vacuum hose at the actuator and it has never set a code.
The ATT turbo has never boosted over 15 PSI.
 

dbrannon79

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Welcome to the forum

depending on the type and programming of the tune it may or may not look for the solenoid at all. question... before you swapped the motor, was the solenoid, vacuum pump and hoses still connected to the turbo? if so, you are gonna want to re-connect it all in the same manner. only issue is if the new motor doesn't have the head studs installed it will end up blowing the gaskets or worse. honestly with a stock engine running on an hx35 and keeping it at factory boost will perform quite well, just keep the wires connected to the wastegate solenoid to keep the codes from showing and install a turbo master adjusted to max 10-12 psi and you should be good to go at least till the head studs are installed.
 

Tmantrucking74

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Previous motor was turbomaster with vacuum pump on motor and not hooked up to either turbo or solenoid from what I can remember the rebuild has been a long two year process



I've kept the original non egr intake and the original IP and tune with current motor hx35 set up


I'm in search of the proper wastegate solenoid for my k2500 to replicate as best as I can of the previous set up


Again the vacuum pump was on motor but no vacuum was hooked up so it was removed along with the ac system.


Is the solenoid plug harness on the same tail as the ac system
My hx35 is around 14-15 psi but I'm pulling code for wastegate solenoid


When I find correct one and reinstall it shall work with no vacuum correct.
 

dbrannon79

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the wire connector for the solenoid should be on the drivers rear area of the valve cover. so will be the connector for the egr solenoid if the truck was originally equipped with one. there were mounted side by side over the valve cover close to the glow plug controller. mine is an obd1 system pre 96 but the locations should be the same.

does the code set right away at key on or not till your on the road? I had a bad solenoid on mine but the code wouldn't set till I was on the freeway under load then once I let off and allowed her to coast or just maintain speed the code would set. I later discovered that it wasn't just the solenoid causing this. it was also the fact that boost pressures didn't drop when I slightly let off the pedal and the map / baro was reading overboost without load situation. if could be possible that the tune may have required a boost fooler that would have been connected to the map sensor. I haven't seen one myself, but heard others mention that it was just a resistor on two of the pins in the connector.

if the code is setting while driving in a similar fashion like mine did, try lowering the adjustment on the turbo master to max of 6psi and take it for a spin. if the code ether doesn't set or takes longer to set, this might confirm if you has a boost fooler installed on the old engine, maybe inside the map connector or on the harness if it was changed with the engine.
 

Tmantrucking74

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the wire connector for the solenoid should be on the drivers rear area of the valve cover. so will be the connector for the egr solenoid if the truck was originally equipped with one. there were mounted side by side over the valve cover close to the glow plug controller. mine is an obd1 system pre 96 but the locations should be the same.

does the code set right away at key on or not till your on the road? I had a bad solenoid on mine but the code wouldn't set till I was on the freeway under load then once I let off and allowed her to coast or just maintain speed the code would set. I later discovered that it wasn't just the solenoid causing this. it was also the fact that boost pressures didn't drop when I slightly let off the pedal and the map / baro was reading overboost without load situation. if could be possible that the tune may have required a boost fooler that would have been connected to the map sensor. I haven't seen one myself, but heard others mention that it was just a resistor on two of the pins in the connector.

if the code is setting while driving in a similar fashion like mine did, try lowering the adjustment on the turbo master to max of 6psi and take it for a spin. if the code ether doesn't set or takes longer to set, this might confirm if you has a boost fooler installed on the old engine, maybe inside the map connector or on the harness if it was changed with the engine.
When I kept the non egr intake I kept the original map

It sets almost immediately
 

dbrannon79

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Sounds like jut a bad solenoid. Probably best to fire the parts cannon for a new Delco one. Look up in the vendor section on the forum here for Rockauto. There should be a 5% discount code to use for members when they order.
 

MrMarty51

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Try plugging the boost solenoid to the connector. Dont run a vacuum pump if You dont have one.
Set the TM so that the boost does not go over about 12 PSI then take it for a drive and see what happens. There is no way the PCM sees how much vacuum there is in the system. It does control the boost solenoid and it also looks at the boost pressure. If the boost solenoid pulse and the boost pressure match then there should be no codes set.
The reason it is setting the reason it is setting the waste gate solenoid code is because the PCM is not reading the pulse count from tje solenoid.
Plug in a solenoid and problem solved.
Thats how I am running the system on my truck. No waste gate at all.
 

Tmantrucking74

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Try plugging the boost solenoid to the connector. Dont run a vacuum pump if You dont have one.
Set the TM so that the boost does not go over about 12 PSI then take it for a drive and see what happens. There is no way the PCM sees how much vacuum there is in the system. It does control the boost solenoid and it also looks at the boost pressure. If the boost solenoid pulse and the boost pressure match then there should be no codes set.
The reason it is setting the reason it is setting the waste gate solenoid code is because the PCM is not reading the pulse count from tje solenoid.
Plug in a solenoid and problem solved.
Thats how I am running the system on my truck. No waste gate at all.
I plugged in a brand new solenoid I'll clear the code in the morning and run her to work and see what she does
 

MrMarty51

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Good to know. Now You dont need a vacuum pump. If it is installed, get a belt, IIRC, an inch shorter, remove the pump and problem solved.
It has been advised many times in here, unless You have the stud head bolt kits installed, try not to run boost over about 12 pounds.
I know I shore would not want to have to change headgaskets because of an overboost in pressure.
 
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