• Welcome to The Truck Stop! We see you haven't REGISTERED yet.

    Your truck knowledge is missing!
    • Registration is FREE , all we need is your birthday and email. (We don't share ANY data with ANYONE)
    • We have tons of knowledge here for your diesel truck!
    • Post your own topics and reply to existing threads to help others out!
    • NO ADS! The site is fully functional and ad free!
    CLICK HERE TO REGISTER!

    Problems registering? Click here to contact us!

    Already registered, but need a PASSWORD RESET? CLICK HERE TO RESET YOUR PASSWORD!

95 6.5 fuel filter change how to?

vaicase

vaicase

New Member
Messages
71
Reaction score
4
Location
morley michigan
im getting ready to put a wix fuel filter on my truck. it looks easy. now do i just unsrew the filter? and after i put the new one in, do i just turn on the key? and it primes itself? or do i have to fill the filter housing before i put the filter in the housing? i just dont want to get air in it. then i believe that is more of a problem getting the air out. thank you very much
 
The filter has a thumbwheel screw on top that will bleed the air. It's the highest point in the fuel system.

Jump the relay or find the pins to cross at the ALDL under the dash to run the lift pump to prime. I forget which pins to jump, maybe somebody will chime in.
 
I jump the relay in the underhood box to prime the filter. You should open the water drain valve and run the water and some fuel out of the housing first with the pump on. Most of the time you will not get water. First as in before you pull the old filter.
 
These pins?

Picture deleted

Do not want to put out wrong information.
 
Last edited:
Original poster has a '95. On the '95, there is a relay listed in the fuse panel under the hood on the driver side. Remove that relay and cross the two terminals that are furthest from each other, if I remember right. There are only 5 terminals you'll see. I think it's the rearmost on the right with the frontmost on the left as you look at it from the driver seat. You'll hear the lift pump power up when you get the right two. I keep a short piece of 12 ga. house wire beside my fuse extractor all the time just for this purpose. I'm not driving my truck today or I'd go take a photo of what you're looking for. If you don't get it figured out by tonight, I'll go get one for you and post it.
 
racer55 said:
Looks much better.
How do you insert captions in pictures like that?
Click to expand...

I use Adobe Photoshop but you can use Microsoft paint or even power point. I use to have a free one that had a fox for a mascot, I think it is called gimp.

If you need a picture worked/hacked on I can try to help you. :thumbsup:
 
DSC_0061edit.jpg

In the upper left corner of this photo, you'll see the relay removed for the lift pump. I've marked them with red circles. As you would be sitting in the driver seat, the two terminals you're interested in are the Right Rear and Left Front where this relay normally resides. Cross those two terminals to power the lift pump manually. You'll hear it run. In this photo, you'll also see the white jumper wire I keep in my fuse panel just for this purpose. It stores there nicely.

I've never powered it up from the inside of the truck as mentioned above, but I think the fuse panel method would be simpler. Just my opinion, though. Good to have options.
 

Attachments

  • DSC_0061.jpg
    DSC_0061.jpg
    60.2 KB · Views: 33
The lift pump double relay mod is also a good idea for a 95 and older. There are some good threads on it here. There is an excellant schematic.

If you are switching from a fuel filter that has a seperate plastic ring to a fuel filter with the plastic top - SAVE the ring. They can be hard to come buy.
You never know you may have a problem and that style of filter may be all that's available. And don't keep the ring in a box in your shop. It'll do you no good there if the situation where you really need it arises.
Carrying a spare of the other style won't get you out of trouble either if you get a bad tank of fuel. Sometimes you can go through filters faster than what you could ever imagine.
 
The bleeder on top of a lot of these filters does not work. On the old style filters I would put a clear plastic line running to a container, jump the G pin or hot wire direct to the lift pump and bleed the filter to the container. After I had run a quart or so out the drain.

When I pull the filter I use an electric fuel pump or old lift pump to suction out the housing. If there is still some crud I use some Sea Foam to clean it up and then suck it out again. I like to start out as clean as possible.

Sucking the fuel out also lessens the risk of getting something inside the filter while installing it.
 
i changed it today. i took the relay out and shorted the wires like it said in the post. and opened the bleader and when i seen fuel and no bubbles. i closed the bleeder,and it started right up. thank you much
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top