Thats my problem, my budget is about $150 just enough for enough off rockauto. It HAS to be running in max time of 2 weeks. MIles is definitely under 150k and I need at least 50k out of itBudget, miles on engine and how many more miles you need out of it- is the question.
Les described the right way to only do heads in your situation to fix mounts and pull heads in place.
But being an 83 that looks it hasn’t come out yet- I would be pulling the engine out and disassembled on a stand.
Chances the head gaskets are blown and the shortblock is perfect or that the heads are perfect is not favorable odds.
Pull all apart, and see what it needs.
You might use the ip of this engine on the other engine that is coming out for the cummins swap and drop it back into the 83 if this one is shot to heck.
No I won't have cash for parts until October. Was gonna pull heads this weekend except its been raining all dayYeah, It’s scary buying parts before disassembly. If you pull heads and find that they cracked or warped and not just gasket failure, that kills not just cheap option but parts cost too. Ruined set of heads or cracked block or warped block surface ends all options of reuse cheap.
The +.10 gaskets dont fix warped. There is a line of thinking I can’t agree or disagree that the thicker gasket might allow easier blow. I see both sides of argument and no one has empirical evidence that I have seen to show either.
Do you already have the new head gaskets and tty bolts?
Do the block of wood, get the engine supported to right height. Yank the heads and then order parts afterwards.
Felpro or victor reinz only on gaskets and new tty bolts. Carquest branded bolts are Victor reinze IF same part number of GS33193.
A video would be extra helpful. I'd rather just put new ones in as cheap as they are. Heres my rockauto cart as of right now- https://www.rockauto.com/xx/cart/?cartid=0d1ccbd5766ddd2b695ad79ccb2ba643 keep in mind Im SUUUUPER budget limitedLet us know what you find. Make sure to straight edge the heads and block. If you don’t know how, we’ll find a video.
Speak up before you buy anything, folks might have new stuff they will sell cheaper than stores. Like me possibly- I already have 2 sets of new Victor tty bolts and 1 new felpro head gasket. But am considering wether to use them in my build or sell them and get arp head studs and may need +.10 gaskets, or might try to find the older victor reinze head gaskets, or maybe the new ones that are under the Mahle umbrella.
I wish someone out there with solid reputation knew of cometics with huge fire rings that are reliable for the 6.5.
And on the motor mount- can you weld? I used to weld up solid motor mounts all the time- ya feel it shake a tad more but it holds the torque better on hotrods. 1 hour welding is cheaper than new rubber...
Ok if rain will hold off for me to get it torn down Ill let yall know what its looking like. Motor should still be good did run for about 20 mins after it overheated so I'm pretty confident on it just blowing the head gaskets to the point where its pushing compression out the side of the block. Even when cranking it over you can tell theres no compression. Oil isn't milky and it had good oil pressure before it died so I'm praying rings and cylinder walls are okLike Will said, check and make sure the deck is straight and the heads are straight and not cracked to bad.
If you wind up being able to reuse the engine and heads or some other heads then save your money on head gaskets. I have a set of stock 6.5 felpros that I’ll send your way.
It hadn't blown the gaskets until it slowly started loosing power- and compression- then it finally died. I'll bet it does something similar to yours.If it run for 20 minuets after it blew the gasket and got hot then you’ll probably have some good blow by. Mine run for about 1 minuet after it blew a gasket and mines got blow by now. She still runs just as good though. Can’t tell any difference until you pull the dipstick or oil fill cap. I didn’t know that running it hot would pull the temper out of the rings until after I got it back together. Im Going to run it till it gives up.
This is an unreasonable expectation in all numbers. You need to know if the heads are good or cracked. The rings are hurt, period. Swapping an engine adds up for the little krap like engine mounts, manifolds, gaskets, hoses, etc.Thats my problem, my budget is about $150 just enough for enough off rockauto. It HAS to be running in max time of 2 weeks. MIles is definitely under 150k and I need at least 50k out of it
I can’t start it because it’s lost so much compression. I’ve got a 94 that I can use the motor mounts and little things off of. Going to put a new water pump on before I drop it in. The 94 gets to 210 10 minutes after being started on a 60 degree day. Pretty sure impeller is gone. Motor runs awesome though. I have this and next weekend to do it plus the evening after school. Gonna drop that motor in it. Really wish I could use the turbo but a/c is in the way. Don’t have money for banks manifolds. Which does better n/a a 6.5 or 6.2 or can your really even tell a difference?This is an unreasonable expectation in all numbers. You need to know if the heads are good or cracked. The rings are hurt, period. Swapping an engine adds up for the little krap like engine mounts, manifolds, gaskets, hoses, etc.
When used engines cost $950 I was still at $2000 total to swap the engine. It took a week to do. Used engines now cost $2000. Still cheap after blowing a $10,000 Cumapart engine up.
Again see what side blew with tstat housing off no belts. Bubbles give it away. Then check the heads for cracks. On your budget you will have to push the rings as far as they will go. Check for cylinder cracking.
The engine swap is harder on time.
At the end of the day this is a 30 year old historic vehicle. They are not exactly trouble free due to age. $50 and $100 you to death they can.