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700r4

FellowTraveler

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Thread starter #1
Any 700r4 experts out there?

I'm considering doing another relatively stock Cummins conversion on a lighter 4x4 vehicle and considering a later model 700r4 with ALTO clutch sets, constant pressure valve body, diesel required options and a low stall lockup torque converter.

So, in the end it will be a 4 speed auto w/o need for controller however; a controller can be had to adjust shift points and engage lockup.

I see lots of conflicting information across the web but not one article that refers to this transmission using a constant pressure valve body.....I suspect it would hold up.
 

deejaaa

Diesel Beginner
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#2
constant pressure will not last on a 4L80 so don't see why it would on a 700R.
on another site (gmt400.com) i received this message,
"...you can wire up the 0411 ecm to control the trans only." but didn't get a reply yet on the question of how to program and wire it up.
 

3500GMC

What T F, over
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#3
TH700R4's need only +12v to the one of the 4 pins on the left front of the case plug. IIRC it's the front inner pin. This is just for locking the torque converter clutch. How you choose to switch it can be a simple toggle or some control device.

Use the throttle valve cable with correct actuating geometry. This is important. It is NOT simply a 'kick down' cable.

For a diesel application try and find a diesel calibrated governor for your shift points. Aftermarket calibration kits are available.

Consider maximizing your clutch and steel count in the forward and 3-4 clutch. Raybestos I think still makes a nice 'Z-PAK' for the 3-4.

Bump up the boost valve to a .500"

HD reaction shell is a good thing. Some are marketed as the 'beast' sun shell and uses proprietary thrust washer.

Always replace every single bushing in these.

Block the 3-4 accumulator. Not needed.

The GM 'vette' 2-4 servo is a good choice and less problematic than some other designs.

Wide 2-4 band is a good idea along with a new reverse drum.

TransGO '700 2&3' shift kit is my go-to.

Consider a new pump kit. 13 vane is the norm.

They'll hold up real well if you pay attention to details and clearances and don't skimp on cooling.

This is not all inclusive and is just what was rattling around in my head. Built quite a few of these and tortured a few as well.
 
Last edited:

FellowTraveler

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Thread starter #4
OK, thanks for the replies.

So far I have gathered that the truck service "K" case 700r4 is most desirable behind a diesel which uses a 6 bolt torque converter......but for some reason there is no real information on constant pressure valve bodies.

Did find that running one behind a Cummins 4bt can be iffy because of its torque pulses and lower end converters crack at the hub however; high end billet converter solves that issue providing the transmission adapter is correctly manufactured.

The Cummins to Chevy bread truck adapter is properly manufactured but is canted and uses a wave ring for mounting the converter I suspect this design was to somewhat counter the torque pluses of this diesel.

I see TransGo has a valve body kit that is full hydro even for the torque converter lockup no wiring or controller needed.

Hoping FERM chimes in on this string......
 

FellowTraveler

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Thread starter #5
constant pressure will not last on a 4L80 so don't see why it would on a 700R.
on another site (gmt400.com) i received this message,
"...you can wire up the 0411 ecm to control the trans only." but didn't get a reply yet on the question of how to program and wire it up.
Interesting thought.....I'll keep this in mind while researching the 700r4.
 

FellowTraveler

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Thread starter #6
Use the throttle valve cable with correct actuating geometry. This is important. It is NOT simply a 'kick down' cable.

For a diesel application try and find a diesel calibrated governor for your shift points. Aftermarket calibration kits are available..
The TV cable is the reason I'm trying to gather a better understanding of the "constant pressure valve body" as everything I have read so far states that the TV adjustment is not as critical when using one but I know "if not adjusted properly there goes your transmission and wondering if this is a consideration."

Yep, I found a good source for the diesel calibrated governor....thanks.
 

THEFERMANATOR

FRANKENBURBAN
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Staff #9
I would put this thought out of your head if it was me. I've built a 4l60e almpst to a T of the build above, and my uncle still managed to rip it with a tbi 350 I built for him. Theres no way it will hold up to even a detuned 160HP Cummins IMHO. As to the K case, that applies to later model 4l60e's from 93-94, and possibly the 4l60 cases from 90-92. They still used a 3 bolt light weight converter. The 700r4 design is a LIGHT DUTY 2 speed trans with an overdrive added into it(1st is low, 2nd is low plus OD, 3rd is direct, and 4th is direct plus OD). It's a very weak design with a long rotating assembly that is only supported on either end with no center support. Most people won't even run one behind a 383, and do a 4l80e swap instead. I would do an at545 swap LONG before I ever dreamed of trying a 4l60e. Or even a 4l80e swap with either a jakes kit or a transgo manual shift valve body conversion.
 

FellowTraveler

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Thread starter #13
I would put this thought out of your head if it was me. I've built a 4l60e almpst to a T of the build above, and my uncle still managed to rip it with a tbi 350 I built for him. Theres no way it will hold up to even a detuned 160HP Cummins IMHO. As to the K case, that applies to later model 4l60e's from 93-94, and possibly the 4l60 cases from 90-92. They still used a 3 bolt light weight converter. The 700r4 design is a LIGHT DUTY 2 speed trans with an overdrive added into it(1st is low, 2nd is low plus OD, 3rd is direct, and 4th is direct plus OD). It's a very weak design with a long rotating assembly that is only supported on either end with no center support. Most people won't even run one behind a 383, and do a 4l80e swap instead. I would do an at545 swap LONG before I ever dreamed of trying a 4l60e. Or even a 4l80e swap with either a jakes kit or a transgo manual shift valve body conversion.
Thought gone! Thank you....
 

FellowTraveler

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Thread starter #14
Yep. If you want no electronics then do one of the many manual switch shift setups, or the transgo full manual shift valve body. Or run a dodge 47rh trans, and toggle switches for lockup and od.
I like the 47rh I did my own build for the one in the Burb conversion to the level I like super easy too then that I can put the better parts from the 48re into it also....real long transmission but strong w/lots of aftermarket support.
 
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