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6.5 N/A vs 6.5 turbo

Nick 6.5

Nick 6.5

Active Member
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Location
California
Ok so im never satisfied with what i have. I just got my truck amd want to build a new engine for it. I found an 605 Naturally aspirated 6.5 block. My trck is a 6.5 td. Is it the same engine block witj different heads and pistons? Can i build this Naturally aspurated block for my turbo 6.5? im planning on buying this block asap so any input will be appreciated!!
 
We have done it with success. Didn't swee a difference. As xsays AK, precups are different, but I don't what that means in terms of difference....
I have a N/A GEP engine from a HUMVEE take out. I put the turbo and everything else on it. It's running strong and I have same mileage than with the previous turbo engine
 
X2 as Matuva. I did that swap and added ATT and heath tune. Getting better mileage and power than with GM engine. I finally have stopped all air and fluid leaks. I also ARP'd the heads as the stock bolts have issues.
 
do u gyts know how to read the date code on the casting number? i know its a 506 block but i wanna know if its a later model so i can avoid webb cracking and also am hoping its the 10mm studs. the date code is J127 can u tell me what the date is or how to read it?
 
Precups will limit what you can do with big turbos and fuel. At a point they just turn more fuel into smoke. I have regretted using 6.2 NA precups with a big turbo. The GM3 (Factory asthma attack) doesn't care what precups you use. You can't through enough fuel at the factory turbo to where the precups matter. (Econo precups excepted.)

Be careful you don't have a 6.5 NA econo precup engine out of a delivery van/truck. These were low power engines with very small precups.

For the record I run 6.5 NA precups just fine on the 1993 with reduced fuel settings and a ATT.

While you have the engine out you should put in turbo precups. Also re-ring the engine is a good idea to stop blowby.
 
No im only using the N/A BLOCK. that is all. i will be buying everything else new or used. is there a certain year i should be looking at for heads that will give me the most power? im guessing larger precups allow for more power?
 
Its not a donor truck. As i said it is the block only. I havnt seen the block in person its at a engine core shop.
 
Ya im ganna have it hot tanked and magged to make sure. And if there is no exchange warrantee i wont buy
 
If you are building a 6.5 engine just for s#its and grins you should start out with an Optimizer block. They have been redesigned to eliminate the cracking issues. I hear Ted's Engines sells used take out Optimizer 6.5 engines. You could also buy a new block.

6.5's are just a bored out 6.2. 6.5 pistons are coated. IMO the coating doesn't do anything as I have run turbo hybrid 6.2's extremely hard to replace thoroughly blown up 6.5's.

So if you want to go cheap you could get a take out 6.2 engine and drop 6.5 heads on it.

Why you are even messing with this while your truck is running is not clear.

There are lots of ways to spend money on a 6.5 and get some decent results. There are other engines that respond to money with a lot more power gained. But for the "Bang" for the buck it is hard to beat a 6.5 when it goes "Bang!" leaving a bunch of carnage in the oil pan. Seriously they can be decent engines within reason and are cheap enough to replace if they do go bang.

My last used 6.2 engine with gapless rings, ARP's, and a new starter cost around $2500. Add an ATT and BD spool valve and you still have less than $10K in a 4x4 extended cab diesel pickup. My friend says he'd take my 20 year old 1993 to NY and back without worry...
 
Im building it for more or less to be stronger and pull the stilock engine am keep it as a back up. I have a track record of blowing engines so just wanna be prepared with a preemptive strike against the weak parts
 
i found a couple different Teds engines. does any1 have a number i can call? im interested in seeing if they have an optomizer engine :agreed:
 
WarWagon said:
Precups will limit what you can do with big turbos and fuel. At a point they just turn more fuel into smoke. I have regretted using 6.2 NA precups with a big turbo. The GM3 (Factory asthma attack) doesn't care what precups you use. You can't through enough fuel at the factory turbo to where the precups matter. (Econo precups excepted.)

Be careful you don't have a 6.5 NA econo precup engine out of a delivery van/truck. These were low power engines with very small precups.

For the record I run 6.5 NA precups just fine on the 1993 with reduced fuel settings and a ATT.

While you have the engine out you should put in turbo precups. Also re-ring the engine is a good idea to stop blowby.
Click to expand...

How come I have a light haze at 20 psi? I know my pump is buggered but still, it should be puking black smoke but its not, and I am running a 2831 pump.

Nick 6.5 said:
Im building it for more or less to be stronger and pull the stilock engine am keep it as a back up. I have a track record of blowing engines so just wanna be prepared with a preemptive strike against the weak parts
Click to expand...

Then you need a GEP/Optimizer.

matuva said:
I don't know how much you will pay for this 506 block + hot tanking and magnaflux. You may consider a 6.2l Humvee take out from Ted's engine?
Click to expand...

6.2 is still a regular engine, nothing special.

Nick 6.5 said:
i found a couple different Teds engines. does any1 have a number i can call? im interested in seeing if they have an optomizer engine :agreed:
Click to expand...

http://www.ebay.com/itm/6-5-GM-Cent...Parts_Accessories&hash=item53fcdcc6a3&vxp=mtr
 
turbovanman said:
How come I have a light haze at 20 psi? I know my pump is buggered but still, it should be puking black smoke but its not, and I am running a 2831 pump.
Click to expand...

In part because you are running a GM or small turbo. I got more than a light haze on my 6.5 DB2 pump with a large turbo. 6.2 IP's tuned all the way up don't smoke much with the ATT. (When spooled up of course.) I do get visible light black smoke on a 6.2 IP.

6.2 IP's can smoke on a GM3 esp. at altitude. The DS4 delivers more fuel than mechanical pumps and more smoke on small precups. Timing being advanced will add to the black smoke.

So I would guess timing and/or fuel delivery keep your smoke down. Advance pistons sticking are known to be an issue in old pumps.
 
WarWagon said:
In part because you are running a GM or small turbo. I got more than a light haze on my 6.5 DB2 pump with a large turbo. 6.2 IP's tuned all the way up don't smoke much with the ATT. (When spooled up of course.) I do get visible light black smoke on a 6.2 IP.

6.2 IP's can smoke on a GM3 esp. at altitude. The DS4 delivers more fuel than mechanical pumps and more smoke on small precups. Timing being advanced will add to the black smoke.

So I would guess timing and/or fuel delivery keep your smoke down. Advance pistons sticking are known to be an issue in old pumps.
Click to expand...

See sig, its not a small turbo, but not overly large either, more like a medium unit.

Agreed on my pump, the advance is buggered so that could be part of it. I know my pump is done, just saving a few more pennies to get my 4544 done.
 
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