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6.2L diesel HP

Logan.k

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Hey I have a 6.2 diesel that I am dropping into a 1951 Chevy srdan.
I'm wondering how much HP this engine can produce before blowing itself up and what I have to do to achieve these numbers.
Thanks
 
At the moment I don't want to spend anything. I'm just looking at getting it in and running. I want to have ideas for things to do along the way.
 
Welcome. My nephew has a 51 sedan so I’m pretty familiar with the ride. We looked at options including 6.2/6.5.

130–215 hp 240–440 lb⋅ft. But keep in mind that is when the 6.2 got bored to a 6.5 and WAY more importantly use of turbo. Over the years.
If you want to do a mega build, 300 hp and 500 torque has happened more than once, but none lived a year if it didn’t cost in the ten thousand dollar range and up. Getting above that you have to have passion for the engine and spend money like it isn’t yours. This

So you really need to know $ and use before you start. 220f and hotter is the deathnail to this engine.

If you want a fuel efficient cruiser- this engine is a good choice.
Roll coal, burn rubber- worst choice possible.

So, expect to do a custom radiator $500- $800. Normal radiator design is not going to work for you.
The front suspension is woefully shy of handling it. Our plan until he figured if he liked it long term was airbag overloads to make up for the springs. Then do the math on proper springs once all was done.

There is a long list of destroyed 6.2/6.5 engines from bumping power and not doing all the right stuff first.

Many people come up with a 6.2 or 6.5 then because it fell in their laps, want to use it for their ride. It could be outright selling what you have as a down payment on an different engine is the best choice.
If you just love the unique 6.2 rattle and plan on doing a ton on miles in the car and want the mpg It could be perfect.
 
Welcome. My nephew has a 51 sedan so I’m pretty familiar with the ride. We looked at options including 6.2/6.5.

130–215 hp 240–440 lb⋅ft. But keep in mind that is when the 6.2 got bored to a 6.5 and WAY more importantly use of turbo. Over the years.
If you want to do a mega build, 300 hp and 500 torque has happened more than once, but none lived a year if it didn’t cost in the ten thousand dollar range and up. Getting above that you have to have passion for the engine and spend money like it isn’t yours. This

So you really need to know $ and use before you start. 220f and hotter is the deathnail to this engine.

If you want a fuel efficient cruiser- this engine is a good choice.
Roll coal, burn rubber- worst choice possible.

So, expect to do a custom radiator $500- $800. Normal radiator design is not going to work for you.
The front suspension is woefully shy of handling it. Our plan until he figured if he liked it long term was airbag overloads to make up for the springs. Then do the math on proper springs once all was done.

There is a long list of destroyed 6.2/6.5 engines from bumping power and not doing all the right stuff first.

Many people come up with a 6.2 or 6.5 then because it fell in their laps, want to use it for their ride. It could be outright selling what you have as a down payment on an different engine is the best choice.
If you just love the unique 6.2 rattle and plan on doing a ton on miles in the car and want the mpg It could be perfect.
Ok I will take all that into account. I am still going to put the 6.2 in mostly because I got it for $200 Canadian and don't really want to buy a new engine at the moment. Maybe a 12 valve Cummins is in this cars future, that is after the 6.2 self-destructs
 
Ok. The cummins is heavier yet, and taller. A lot easier engine to beat up if you can fit it in there.

The fact that you got it for 200 is great. But don’t feel you have to destroy it to get money back from it. Any vehicle that drives a person can buy a 6.2 from should fetch 1.5 weeks wages for a high school graduate. If you get it in there and decide to build one up, I suggest drive the one you have now. Then get a second one, preferably an optimizer, and build it for plenty of torque and mpg use with a nice turbo or twin factory turbos and make a weekend switch. That way you can drive now, spend money over time then when your done sell off the stock 6.2 for money recovery or keep as a spare.
 
Ok. The cummins is heavier yet, and taller. A lot easier engine to beat up if you can fit it in there.

The fact that you got it for 200 is great. But don’t feel you have to destroy it to get money back from it. Any vehicle that drives a person can buy a 6.2 from should fetch 1.5 weeks wages for a high school graduate. If you get it in there and decide to build one up, I suggest drive the one you have now. Then get a second one, preferably an optimizer, and build it for plenty of torque and mpg use with a nice turbo or twin factory turbos and make a weekend switch. That way you can drive now, spend money over time then when your done sell off the stock 6.2 for money recovery or keep as a spare.
Ok that's a good idea. I'm going to have to cut the car up a bit in side so everything will fit. Hopefully this engine makes it at least a year so I can afford to do a swap.
Thanks
 
Before you go through all the conversion fabrication, time, and pain...

Have you torn into the bargain $200 engine to know what you got? These engines are expendable, as opposed to rebuildable, and odds are pretty good at $200 you got one that has already been expended. Cracked head(s) Cracked mains, blown head gasket, lots of blowby, glow plugs impacted in pistons, stretched timing chain, trashed injection pump, overheated to failure, shot cam bearings thus no oil pressure, busted off starter mount...

Getting the engine dropped in and firing it up only to discover it's a boat anchor can bring tears to ones eyes. Esp. if it's burning coolant!

Just saying you should check the engine out first and go from there.
 
Before you go through all the conversion fabrication, time, and pain...

Have you torn into the bargain $200 engine to know what you got? These engines are expendable, as opposed to rebuildable, and odds are pretty good at $200 you got one that has already been expended. Cracked head(s) Cracked mains, blown head gasket, lots of blowby, glow plugs impacted in pistons, stretched timing chain, trashed injection pump, overheated to failure, shot cam bearings thus no oil pressure, busted off starter mount...

Getting the engine dropped in and firing it up only to discover it's a boat anchor can bring tears to ones eyes. Esp. if it's burning coolant!

Just saying you should check the engine out first and go from there.
I got it from a friend of mine and they said it was running last year but has a file probably. Definitely going to make sure everything is good and running before I put it in.
Thanks for the heads up though.
 
Hi Logan, welcome to thetruckstop.
I`m not real knowledgeable on what does, or, what does not work on or in these engines. The people in here will not steer You wrong. If You have any questions, ask away. it might be a day or so but, someone will get back to You.
At the top of each page, there is a flash thing that changes, check out Leroy Diesel and also Quadstar tuning for up rated components for these engines.
Little by little through time and money, I`m getting the 6.5 in My truck to being dependable and running better, for the long haul.
 
@n8in8or
Maybe post a link to your build at what is possible if he wants to go all out?
If you have a few days to spend reading, here’s what I did. I don’t know that it’s “all out” as I kind of did it on a budget, but the results were stout and most importantly documented. Problem is, I don’t know if anyone right now can build an IP like this and that was the magic sauce - I just prepped my junk to handle it. Enjoy the read and welcome to TTS.

 
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