One of the HUGE advantages of a v belt set up is you can buy the used hmmwv fanclutch assemblies on ebay, and run it unmodified. Just use a temp senor unit from summit racing that would turn on an electric fan to engauge the solenoid inline of the power steering hose that feed the fanclutch.
Perfect adjustability of when you want it to be on/off by your choice of temperature.
Tap power from trianary swith on a/c and feed same solenoid, now a a/c engauged fanclutch.
Add a dash switch to kick on early when towing going up “the big hill you hate”.
Water fording when playin off road? A switch to shut it off for deep water crossing to avoid fan/ radiator damage from propeller effect.
And of course the 100% lockup clutch outperforms the crap out of anything near it.
And then the rebuild kits are dirt cheap- $25 last I saw. To my knowledge the rebuild is needed at about 75,000 mile on a hmmwv. So in a pickup or suburban that gets better airflow and less frequent engagement needed, should be same or longer.
Rember the massive unbalanced waterflow issue started wihbthe serpintine belt reversing waterpump direction. So a v belt h/o pump flows same volume and is already balanced flow.
If you guys do swap (which I get- been there) make sure to upgrade tstat crossover, brf from Leroy if dual stat upgrade, and the best fanclutch you can get is still Kennedy’s afaik. That is unless you beet me to an adapter of the spin on waterpump to the hmmwv fanclutch...
Oh yeah- belt slap... something that came to mind rescently. Serpintine systems use tensioners and idlers. V belts never had one. What about a tensioner to kill the long run area of slack that allows the slap?