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4" Exhaust!!!!!

Deere Freek

Deere Freek

Recruit
Messages
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Location
Hastings, MI
I'm getting a 4" exhaust and downpipe. Wondering if there was anything else i should do to it while the old one is off.

btw this will be my first mod to the truck!!!!
unless you coun't removing the turbo silencer which did absolutely nothing. I wonder how much GM paid some engineer to design that stupid thing.
 
the crossover can sometimes be a real bitch. i had an oil leak from a valve cover and it kept the bolts from rusting up on one side. the other side wasn't so bad. what i did was grab an impact gun and allow only 25 psi or so to the gun from the regulator on your air compressor. this way you have less of a risk of snapping the bolt off. i would slowly work at it with the impact hammering at it but not putting constant pressure on it like a ratchet or breaker bar would. i managed to get all 6 bolts out without breaking a single one and this truck lived in rhode island which is one of the states that cars rot out in very quickly.
 
No, but start putting PBlaster on the nuts now... let 'er soak for a few days before you undo things. You might also want to do the candle-wax thing if they're even a little stiff... breaking off those crossover bolts can be a real pain.
 
what is this candle wax thing??? never heard of that. i just had to put an oil pump in my 95 3500hd and the crossover pipe came off just fine. i will have to add that this is a summer only truck and does not see the newyork winter salt so...............................................:yesnod:
 
Heat up the nut with a propane torch and then stick a candle into the edge between the nut and stud... the wax will 'wick' right up into the spaces between the nut and stud.

works sometimes better than penetrating fluids... as the nut is already expanded a bit from the heat, and once the wax gets in there, it starts following the threads.
 
If you have a new system, the DP is hold with a clamp. The rest, you can just cut them up at a couple of spot. Unless you want to keep the original, then you can do it nicely.
 
iamdave0887 said:
the crossover can sometimes be a real bitch. i had an oil leak from a valve cover and it kept the bolts from rusting up on one side. the other side wasn't so bad. what i did was grab an impact gun and allow only 25 psi or so to the gun from the regulator on your air compressor. this way you have less of a risk of snapping the bolt off. i would slowly work at it with the impact hammering at it but not putting constant pressure on it like a ratchet or breaker bar would. i managed to get all 6 bolts out without breaking a single one and this truck lived in rhode island which is one of the states that cars rot out in very quickly.
Click to expand...

Way to do it is use plenty of PB Blaster, then put on breaker bar and apply firm torque tension to the lefty loosey direction; with firm pressure applied, then whack with hammer the flex joint of the breaker, works the same as low pressure impact but it's not whacking as hard/often. Key is constant firm pressure, if you just to a quick yank on the breaker you'll snap it off or round the fastner, also use 6 pt vs 12 pt socket. Worked on every crossover bolt I've done thus far, plus it's the way I do hi tension jet engine super heated fasteners.

With down pipe off get them pesky gnd straps hidden in that area, plus check to see that starter brace is tight/still there.
 
Turbine Doc said:
Way to do it is use plenty of PB Blaster, then put on breaker bar and apply firm torque tension to the lefty loosey direction; with firm pressure applied, then whack with hammer the flex joint of the breaker, works the same as low pressure impact but it's not whacking as hard/often. Key is constant firm pressure, if you just to a quick yank on the breaker you'll snap it off or round the fastner, also use 6 pt vs 12 pt socket. Worked on every crossover bolt I've done thus far, plus it's the way I do hi tension jet engine super heated fasteners.

With down pipe off get them pesky gnd straps hidden in that area, plus check to see that starter brace is tight/still there.
Click to expand...

Thats good idea! I'm going to order crossover/ DP on the 1st. Plus check out the starter!:D
 
What if I wanted to put a mitsubishi turbo on like TD did while i was at it. Kinda tempting, especially if Heath makes a program for it. anyway back to the question, does that change anything?
 
You could add the turbo now or wait until we get a program tailored to the TDO-7 if there are changes to be made, I've only discussed it on phone he/they have not seen it yet to know if anything else needs to be done or can be done, so lets not count chickens until hatched, but while in there go ahead and loosen the GM turbo mount bolts even if you aren't ready for a swap just yet, it's good preventative maint anyway.
 
Are there little donought gasket type thingies in the X-over, or is it all flange sealed? That's someting else to think about.
 
Well my xover passes the golf ball test so should i worry about it? Turbo bolts seem like they should come out allrignt. Thankfully the truck has only seen 1 michigan winter as far as i know so there is minimal rust.
 
if it passes the golf ball test i wouldn't worry about it so much. since the golf ball passes through from one side to the other it means theres no kinks in the inner wall of the crossover. i didn't do the golf ball test as my stock crossover had a big dent in it so i just replaced it.
 
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