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1996 6.5 not so alive

B

BoyceHelms

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Fellas....thanks in advance for your knowledge and willingness to take some fat out of my lil rich and when I say lil, I mean hardstarting soot blowing battery draining workhorse.
It all started when I rounded the corner of a flodded parking lot. Left side of the truck saw water come over the fender. Truck stalled. Fired right back up and drove about five miles and service engine soon light came on. Long story short, I drained water at the t valve, replaced lift pump and filter. The pmd is relocated up front and I installed a set of glow plugs. Oh yeah and a coolant temp sensor.
Truck is in limp mode and setting codes po183, po251, and po370.
Again, thanks in advance for any knowledge that can help.
 
As in it splashed over the fender or "Splash!" you backed it out of a pond? :oops:

Inspect the air filter for water damage and collapse. It may still be waterlogged.

What are we working on? Year, make, model?

You drained water out of the fuel filter. :eek: Don't drive it till you figure this out and maybe, just maybe, you won't have to replace the entire injection system from injector tips to IP. I would check it again by draining water in a glass jar and let it sit looking for water again. You may got a tank load of water and some fuel. Does it also smell like gasoline? You got your fuel receipt? If you see water again call the state, their number is posted on every pump, and let them check fuel quality. You could have a claim on the station owner and a tank load of water and diesel to get rid of. It takes a lot of water to reach the fuel pickup in the tank. (or you went from high biodiesel % to straight #2 diesel.)

Oh yeah... Welcome to TTS.
 
Welcome.
Yeah, if your drowned it, getting out water-is first step. Air filter out and check intake system.
Drain the whole fuel tank. A bit of fuel wasted is cheaper than ip (injection pump) replacement.
Replace the ip return line with clear tubing coming out the front of the ip. It’s 1/4”diameter and about 5” long. Get screw style clamps to replace the squeeze clamps. You can see contamination and any air bubbles showing if you suck air. Make it permanent for instant diagnostics.

Ask before you buy parts- learn from our mistakes- a lot of rip off places out there.
 
Welcome to TTS..the guys seem to already be giving you the best advice.. only thing I'm gonna add is if any of those electrical parts were not A/C DELCO brand, pull them back out and get DELCO... especially That temp sensor..I changed mine and made the truck even worse by putting in a store brand one..3 weeks later I got smart and went and got a Delco sensor and she purred like a kitten again...these trucks are finicky about electrical parts...
And again, welcome to TTS
 
Thanks guys your all your suggestions. I will try these things and let ya know. Oh yea, war wagon. It's a 1996 k3500 6.5l turbo diesel. I know you guys know what you are talking about, but will water actually make it throw all three of these codes?
Preciate you fellas!
 
You are a step ahead of the game for looking at codes, but, good clean air free, water free, and gasoline free fuel is issue#1 at the moment.

I really wasn't kidding about asking how deep the water was. There are many things you need to take care of if you backed this out of a pond where you got water in fuel. Diff oil contamination...

Or you need to be looking at ways water got in the fuel from a big puddle.

Will L. said:
Piston damage is crazy rare
Click to expand...

Ah HAHAHAHA! SNORT! CoUgH! HAHAHAHA!

At least you can identify your hurt pistons. (or can you?) ME? You got to take my word for it that "this" used to be a piston...

6.5 carnage

thought I'd start a thread on just pics of 6.5 carnage. If there is another that I couldn't find mods please merge.
www.thetruckstop.us
 
Thanks Will and War Wagon,
No war wagon I didn't back it out of a pond but it rained pretty heavily here for a while. No joke, I circled around a building and noticed the water was over the curb. Didn't realize it was about two feet over. Too fast for conditions dumbass, is what I would say to myself today. Anyway, yeah it stalled but fired right back up. Truck ran fine for a few minutes then service engine light came on and water in fuel light just barely lit up.
I keep driving it because it's my only wheels but only when I absolutely have to.
I think when you asked if I backed it out of a pond, maybe you were wondering if the ecm got wet or something. Nothing in the cab got wet and when I raised the hood there wasn't much water that made its way thru the inner fender well. My concern at the moment was water in the turbo. Now my concern is the path you guys put me on.
Stoney, the ct sensor was not the ac delco brand btw. And now that you mentioned it, the temp gauge fluctuates a little and is about 10 to 15 degrees higher than normal. Probably a bit of info I should have informed you guys of already.
Whatever the case, I'm just glad to swallow my damn pride a little and ask for help. I know we will get it fixed fellas. Thank you!
 
FWIW all your codes point to the Injection Pump with "bad fuel". The temp sensor is in the injection pump. This is why clean fuel is so important as bad fuel or water will screw up the optical sensor's vision that is in the fuel bath. I would check fuel pressure on the water drain with the lift pump on or engine running: verify the lift pump is working. Water in fuel can immediately plug a new fuel filter.

PO183 Fuel Temp Sensor

P0251 Injection Pump Fuel Metering Control A Malfunction

DTC P0370 Timing Reference High Resolution System Performance. Circuit Description: The optical sensor provides a high resolution signal to the PCM by counting pulses on the sensor disk located in the injection pump
 
As I researched the codes I had come to the conclusion that it was the optical sensor. After seeing the water that came from the t valve and changing the lift pump and fuel filter, the truck still has a lengthy crank time as it chugs to fire up. That being said is why I think it is the optical sensor throwing the timing off. But I was needing someone to verify that for me as you have. Is there a way to check the optical sensors signal with out having an oscilloscope? Or is this where I should be looking? I haven't checked the pressure at the t valve but I will do that right now.
Thanks War Wagon.
 
One more question to verify clean fuel. Do I need to take the sample from the return line as Will L has suggested that I have yet to do or can I take it from the t valve? Man I can't thank you guys enough. I've been a gasoline mechanic and a helicopter mechanic most of my life but up untill about a year ago have I needed to get familiar with diesel burning vehicles. Thanks again.
 
To test the optical sensor unplug the Crank position sensor and then try to start it. It will take extended cranking and when/if it starts it will be in limp mode. It should run smoothly no hiccups etc. If it won't start then that too indicates a bad OS.
 
Don’t play around with old fuel you know had a problem. I used to love it as a mechanic because i made killer money selling and installing completely new fuel systems from it. EPA and your local authorities will tell you not to dump old fuel down the drain. I don’t care where you get rid of it- but get rid of it. 30 gallons at $4 a gallon is $120. Think of it like a bad part you have to replace.
 
ak diesel driver said:
To test the optical sensor unplug the Crank position sensor and then try to start it. It will take extended cranking and when/if it starts it will be in limp mode. It should run smoothly no hiccups etc. If it won't start then that too indicates a bad OS.
Click to expand...
It has extended cranking time now and is also in limp mode. However, I will try unplugging the crank sensor to see if it will start at all. To verify you say if it does not start with the crank sensor unplugged, that would indicate a bad os? Meaning it would start although the crank sensor is disconnected if the os was good? Sorry to be such a noob but I just wanted to understand you correctly. Thanks for your input
 
Will L. said:
Don’t play around with old fuel you know had a problem. I used to love it as a mechanic because i made killer money selling and installing completely new fuel systems from it. EPA and your local authorities will tell you not to dump old fuel down the drain. I don’t care where you get rid of it- but get rid of it. 30 gallons at $4 a gallon is $120. Think of it like a bad part you have to replace.
Click to expand...
Will L I have drained the tank and taken multiple samples from the t valve. Although I did notice a disturbing amount of tiny very little bubbles in the first sample after finally getting it started, the bubbles eventually went away with each additional sample. Five pint samples total to see no bubbles and there was no water at all. I was concerned I may not have got the fuel tank completely empty. Thank you
 
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