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1995 6.5 IP leaks and replacing seals

buddyjaet

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Used 1995 K2500, correcting issues as I find them. Cleaned and dried the engine around the intake, not taken anything apart, small leak/weep around the top of the injector pump. No clue how old the pump is, previous owner did not recall. Can you just purchase a seal kit for the pump, the sensor on top appears to be the source of the leak, it is slow and just an annoyance for now. First thought the filter module was the source of the leak, it is clean and dry, inspection shows all the fuel lines have been replaced as well as all the clamps, someone was trying to eliminate the leak.
It is now my problem to correct. I shall attempt to get either pictures or a video of the unit soon as I can.
Anyone had experience with this?
 

buddyjaet

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I cannot easily determine, but it appears to be near the snap ring, not disassembled anything yet. Getting images that showed an active leak were difficult, seems more like a weep, not a drip or flow. How the attached images give someone a clue?
Can you just replace that o-ring and seal for the plate? What size o-ring or part numbers to order?
Thanks.
 

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JMJNet

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Be careful if you need to open the Optical Sensor because it has to be put back EXACTLY/PRECISELY as it is now.
Otherwise, you will have a IP paper weight.
 

buddyjaet

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I'd check out your fuel line real close first, could just be fuel being pushed by the air from the fan.
I will double check it, the clamp on it was loose when I first checked it, thought I tightened it back up, but not sure. All the fittings appear to be tight. After I can get the correct o-ring for the OS and swap it out, then i will clean and dry the top of the IP, it is difficult to sort out where the fuel comes from after it runs for a bit, blue shop towels soak up majority of it, then I use a degreaser to illuminate residual and allow me to observe any new leaks.
 

buddyjaet

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You can pop off the snap ring and pull the cover without messing with the torx bolt that holds the OS in
I was hoping that is the case, just trying to sort out what size o-ring to replace it with, did not want to but will consider formagasket type material to seal around the current o-ring and the cover plate. This appear to be my only source of fuel leaks, the Filter Module is dry and all rubber lines are new.
 

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Big T

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Inspect it while running at night with a good flashlight. It will illuminate the diesel juice and you’ll find your leak.
 

Will L.

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I haven’t bought the oring or top plate gasket in over a decade, but they are sold, sorry idk part numbers.
I use almost no factory gaskets on main engine components, but I wouldn’t mess with trying to figure out what might work. Order the right oring and gasket.

If Leroy or rockauto cant get it, maybe john of unique or john of quadstar can get them. Next place I would try is real4wd.com
 

buddyjaet

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While installing the Leroy Diesel PMD relocation kit, I took the time to pull the OS from the top of the IP. Also cleaned up routing of hoses and wiring. No luck sourcing the slightly unusual o-ring locally. It's cross section was square not round. Permatex High Heat/Fuel Resistant BLACK conservatively applied around the opening and between the sensor and the top cover seems to have solved my weep/leak problem. I shall monitor it for a while but one less issue to resolve. I left the original PMD on the fuel pump because I would have to pull the intake manifold to reach the bottom two screws. So my "spare" sits where it started. In South Alabama Diesel trucks do not sit long in the parts yards.
 

Will L.

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Hope that gets it. Please update this down the road if that seals it long term, it could help others and personally interested to see if it withstands this modern version of diesel fuel.

I should have mentioned to do the clear return line while at it. Sure helps on future diagnosis to be in place before issues begin and to know what it is supposed to look like.

Also wanted to throw in regarding hard to find fuel leaks- there used to be a fluorescent dye you could buy that was 1 qt to 30 gallons and you used a uv flashlight just like searching a/c leaks. I haven’t seen it in years, but haven’t needed it either. It was pricey- about $25 a quart back in the late 90’s.
 

buddyjaet

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Hope that gets it. Please update this down the road if that seals it long term, it could help others and personally interested to see if it withstands this modern version of diesel fuel.

I should have mentioned to do the clear return line while at it. Sure helps on future diagnosis to be in place before issues begin and to know what it is supposed to look like.

Also wanted to throw in regarding hard to find fuel leaks- there used to be a fluorescent dye you could buy that was 1 qt to 30 gallons and you used a uv flashlight just like searching a/c leaks. I haven’t seen it in years, but haven’t needed it either. It was pricey- about $25 a quart back in the late 90’s.
I plan to monitor it daily for a week, then periodically. Still have improvements to apply under the hood and elsewhere. The choice of the high temp fuel resistant material as deliberate. More to follow in a week, or longer I hope. Of course the ultimate would be to finally sort out the part number of that darn o-ring, emailed Stanadyne Customer Service, no response yet.. I need to learn to wear my GoPro when I do this stuff for later reference too!
 

JMJNet

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I suspect, that o-ring was probably round before and it has become a square over time due to application.
I have used round o-ring to fit a square application.
 

buddyjaet

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We are on the same thought path, plus if it was supposed to have a round cross section and it is square now, would completely explain the weeping of fuel, well previous weeping of fuel, it don't leak now. Still I keep checking it every time I raise the hood. Time to work on the other little things that need attention under the hood. Like installing a BOOST Gauge and EGT Gauge, waiting on the pillar mount for them now.
 
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