1994 Chevy silverado 6.5 3500 turbo diesel dually not running yet ben sitting under shelter for 13 years has about 69 thousand miles on it

[rsj4ever]

When it actually runs I plan on pulling a camper from state to state for contract work each job last about three months and then on to the next state. I'm having trouble getting the truck running never worked on a diesel engine before just gas never had this much trouble getting an engine to run first off put two batteries on it and cranked it over it did turn over but quickly melted the side post on one of the batteries so now it has brand new cables and top post lugs then it would crank over but no start. It was not getting fuel so I changed the lift pump still no fuel so changed the pmd now I have fuel and it won't fire checked glow plugs they look good and get red hot if you put power to them checked for power to the glow plugs they are getting power but don't turn red hot when powered by the truck I'm sure it has compression it's killing the starter and drained the batteries needless to say you don't get a lot of chances for it to start. The new starter and bolts are on the way. It never even acts like it wants to start only thing I noticed was a lot of white smoke coming out of the air inlet that hooks to the turbo seems like it should be going out the tail pipe. Pumped out some fuel it looks like mountain dew poured some in a tin can tried to lite it with a burning piece of paper won't lite then uesd a propane torch and it will burn with the torch gonna drop the tank clean it or replace it hope it's not rusty. Gas can and fresh diesel will be my next try. I know your not supposed to spray it with ether but I got frustrated with it and hit it with the magic spray it still did nothing didn't even fire tried holding a gas soaked rag in front of intake hose and nothing what could be causing the truck not to fire on any thing it's just not making any sense any help would be appreciated and thanks for any and all help

 

[dbrannon79]

Welcome to the forum @rsj4ever

The fuel system will need to be completely cleaned and flushed from the sound of things. you may even want to check the fuel shutoff solenoid plunger on the IP to see if it isn't stuck closed from sitting that long. seeing the white smoke from the intake side might be an indication of the valves staying stuck open if things are rusted up. try pulling the glow plugs and squirting a small amount of wd-40 in the cylinders, then do a compression test using a diesel compression tester.

as for flushing out the injector pump getting fresh fuel out of it. I will let others chime in. I bet that rig looks in mint condition sitting that long in out of the weather! post some photos of your wonderful barn find we all would love to see if.

 

[jrsavoie]

Jumper the lift pump while trying things.

Verify you are getting fuel to the injection pump with the lift pump jumpered.

Make double dog sure you have the front brace on the starter.

I hope you used real cable ends on the top post battery. And not the cheesy emergency use ony clamp on jobs.

Check your grounds.

At some point in time, install a lift pump relay update with the prime feature and a toggle switch for priming the fuel filter and doing diagnostics. Along with a permanent fuel pressure gauge.

Run the injection pump / IP return line to a container. The truck will not start if the return line is plugged. I've had that a couple times.

I usually jumper the lift pump and run about 1/2 gallon out the T drain.

Mountain Dew looking fuel sounds about right.

For OEM style lift pumps and most other electronics, I would use only ACDelco or GM parts.

It also doesn't hurt to plug the truck in while trying to start.

Verify fuel and electrical stuff before trying.

You can check for power to and from the pmd on the appropriate pins.

If you have a optic sensor filter, remove it and plug directly into the injection pump.

 

[WarWagon]

never worked on a diesel engine before

I know your not supposed to spray it with ether but I got frustrated with it and hit it with the magic spray it still did nothing didn't even fire tried holding a gas soaked rag in front of intake hose and nothing what could be causing the truck not to fire on any thing it's just not making any sense

Word. Stop with the "desperation" to start it already before you hurt yourself and ruin the engine.

The starting guide of wait for glow plug light to go out then crank is on the visor. After 10-15 seconds the glow plugs are cooled off "cold" and you are just draining the batteries and cooking the starter. It won't "miracle" start at second 30. It either lights off quickly or you have a problem that needs fixed before it will start. 30 seconds max cranking and then minimum 2 min cool down or your starter will become melted slag with drained battries.

Diesel engines use the injection pump to control throttle and timing. Gas engines use a spark plug and have a throttle plate restriction in the intake: Diesels don't! So pouring flammable $hit down the intake:
1) Possible Fireball back out of the intake lighting things on fire.
2) Ruins hot glowplugs by overheating them. Ruined glow plugs can break off and become debris that ruin the engine.
3) Starting fluid lights on the compression stroke aka pre-ignition attempting to spin the engine in reverse that can: blow the starter clean off the block with a chunk of block still attached, blow the heads off the engine, bend rods... GM didn't put a 10 cent sticker on it saying "engine damage may result" for amusement.
4) It finally started with all the extra fuel from many failed starting attempts ... the fuel with no throttle has the RPM run away past redline in a fuel-fed Diesel engine runaway.

The safest place to stand during a runaway is in front or behind it as parts scatter out the sides of the block.

This is a inexpensive engine to learn about Diesels on. But it's an expendable engine known to crack block main webs and heads. It's awful 7MPG towing grades due to the small turbo choking is the same as a 454.

The above said make sure you have enough RPM out of the starter, post a short video of it cranking for 10 sec. Not enough 10HP starter RPM = not enough compression heat to vaporize and ignite the diesel fuel. (No spark plug to squeak over barley and fire off from one spark plug firing.)

Air in fuel is the #1 no start step in the GM manual. Feeding it from a 5 gal diesel jug for both the return and supply is a good idea.

How did the old fuel filter look? Pictures.

Diesel doesn't light like gasoline.

 

[Will L.]

Only thing to add is replacing the ip return fuel line with clear tubing. It is 1/4” diameter, about 6” long, sold by the foot at any hardware store. It is not rated as fuel line, so you will have to replace it in about 5 years. But cheap and easy.
With lift pump on and key on, as well as engine running, watch for bubbles or debris flowing. The bubbles indicate air intrusion into the fuel line before the lift pump, or at the ffm. Having one small stationary bubble is normal and ok. Traveling bubbles is a problem and can keep an engine from starting or have it run really rough.

 

[rsj4ever]

I dropped the fuel tank and opened it up and to my surprise it was the cleanest rust free tank I've dropped in years it did have numerous black specks laying in the bottom but no rust in the tank it's thoroughly cleaned and awaiting reinstall you guys are right I have been in to big of a hurry to start get it running and I need to do a compression test next thank you all for the help and on the battery post I ran heavy duty welding wire and mil speck lugs and now have a new starter with arp bolts and I'm keeping the rear mount so no problem there as quickly as I can do the testing I will up date thank you everyone

 

[MrMarty51]

I dropped the fuel tank and opened it up and to my surprise it was the cleanest rust free tank I've dropped in years it did have numerous black specks laying in the bottom but no rust in the tank it's thoroughly cleaned and awaiting reinstall you guys are right I have been in to big of a hurry to start get it running and I need to do a compression test next thank you all for the help and on the battery post I ran heavy duty welding wire and mil speck lugs and now have a new starter with arp bolts and I'm keeping the rear mount so no problem there as quickly as I can do the testing I will up date thank you everyone

Just do not attempt starting that engine without that brace bracket snugly in place.
Seems I read in here sometime back, it is much easier to het to the bolts for that bracket with the inner fender removed.
I know I did install that bracket on My truck before I found this forum. Did that without the inner fender removal and I got it but it was a real bear. A GRIZZLY for sure.

 

[WarWagon]

I dropped the fuel tank and opened it up and to my surprise it was the cleanest rust free tank I've dropped in years it did have numerous black specks laying in the bottom but no rust in the tank it's thoroughly cleaned and awaiting reinstall you guys are right I have been in to big of a hurry to start get it running and I need to do a compression test next thank you all for the help and on the battery post I ran heavy duty welding wire and mil speck lugs and now have a new starter with arp bolts and I'm keeping the rear mount so no problem there as quickly as I can do the testing I will up date thank you everyone

I would leave the sock off the fuel pickup and use an external pre-filter for the lift pump.

With the glow plugs out, be lazy just take the easy to get to ones out NOT ALL EIGHT.

1992 6.5TD Rescue

.......Any bets on how many parts I still have to replace on the AC system?........i say 5. what's my prize?

www.thetruckstop.us

Post 104 is priming a fuel system with some glow plugs out. The flammable fuel mist means the injection system is now operational and working.