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1992 6.5TD Rescue

WarWagon

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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Location
AZ
So I need to be committed now. :wacky:




Seriously! :dead:





Went and picked this up from north of the middle of nowhere, AZ. 1992 6.5 TD 4x4 3/4t reg cab. INOP and nice and cheap. Work truck with single glass headlights, rubber floor and torn up vinyl seat. Has PW/PL/PS/PB. The PW/PL is odd for a work truck package. Yes the Exhaust isn't original!

Figure the PO didn't know what a 6.5 needs to start. They pulled the IP the hard way. :hungover: UGH! Worse is the phrase "Quick heat" Glow plugs was used when describing new injectors and GP's. They were thinking of parting the truck out.

Of course the trailer brakes worked only when I didn't need them and I went through the 6.5 killer grades to go get it. There is a limit to the exhaust brake... :eek:

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Got it smoking with the IP disconnected. Never quite understood why these engines smoke when cranking out the exhaust and no fuel.

Engine oil nasty thin. Diesel fuel smells like gasoline. Yes contaminated fuel would be the likely reason it wouldn't start cold. I assume it ran awhile on it and dumped the gas into the engine oil.

No brake lights and various other lights out. Driver door hinge pin bushings worn and busted out.

I think it needs a radiator cap! :jawdrop: I have no words to describe the small drilled hole and the string through it. EVANS ready cap?!

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Got it to start and smoke under it's own power at 1AM last night!
 
Couldn't get it to start again. It's had low RPM cranking you hear by ear since the first attempt.

So we pulled the starter. At first glance we couldn't see an issue as brushes looked good. So did the hard part and pulled the brushes off. Then we found the meltdown the PO did trying to start it.

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Nasty Fuse and found some other crazy fuse items like a jumped fuse and higher rated fuses.

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It's all manual at the moment. :woot: Someone sits in the seat and makes the noise while someone else pushes.

Auto trans.

Had it running last night for 15 min. Looking at a weak IP and low compression with needing a good cut a hole in the hood for a stack from the blowby coming out of the valve cover CDR location. :cigar:
 
It is smoking solid blue out the exhaust. It would not likely pass emissions. It won't start on glow plugs period and needs the juice to start. The Autolite 1112 quick heat plugs are not self regulating best I can tell, but, IMO are a good alternative to these old controllers designed around the AC 9G plugs. The tips get orange under the controller time where the AC 60G's don't. GP's are all working and come out of the engine wet when it will only fire on 1 of 8 without juice.

I'll have to re-ring it or more.
 
Name appears to be "The Banana Truck".

Major change today in the engine's attitude. Went from mosquito fogger to a light blue haze out the exhaust. Like the rings are getting cleaned up in good oil and maybe the gasoline % in the system is going down. Made it a test mile under it's own power.

I am thinking a couple good hard runs to see if it clears up some more now. :angelic: Now where am I gonna find a good hill to get it cleaned out....

So next I will get some duraterms and override the glow plugs to get things good and hot and see if that helps it start on it's own.That is after I reseal the cylinder head block off under the glow plug controller that was streaming water.

Oh yeah, don't use Ether on an engine you are not planning on rebuilding! :dead: Seriously this engine didn't even want to light on Ether at first! Use of it did break the gear reduction gears in the above overheated starter :nailbiting: talk about sudden scary crunching noises while cranking! From some holes drilled in the intake it looks like the PO was using Ether. Of course disable the glow plugs before using it.

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This turbo is too small! :facepalm:
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Yup just when it was looking good! Need to park next to a fire hydrant, open the doors, and turn it on!
 
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Looks like you hood has some banana peeling.:muted:

Ever heard of the berryman carb cleaner trick to unstick rings? Put a cup in each hole, let it sit overnight turn over by hand next am then add 1/2 cup more. Apply direct shop air (higher the better) to force down past the rings, let it sit a couple hours. Then crank it over to blow out excess. And of coarse an oil change is in order. Works pretty good.
 
Will L. said:
Looks like you hood has some banana peeling.:muted:

Ever heard of the berryman carb cleaner trick to unstick rings? Put a cup in each hole, let it sit overnight turn over by hand next am then add 1/2 cup more. Apply direct shop air (higher the better) to force down past the rings, let it sit a couple hours. Then crank it over to blow out excess. And of coarse an oil change is in order. Works pretty good.
Click to expand...
used to use diesel for that as well.
 
Little progress.

Removed 100 LBS of mud.

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Door Hinge pins and bushings.

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took off the inner fender on my dually to get easier access and got about a coffee can full of garbage out from the joint of the fender/door/cab area.
 
Some progress. Despite claims of "new injectors" in the ad, well, that was a lie. They have been in there awhile and maybe the gasoline finished them off. Like patch would do with sticking injectors - it would hit 1 of 8 and just not get off the starter. Much worse than patch that would actually start after beating up the starter's over run clutch a few times.

This was after trying a known IP - no change. So it's compression or injectors.

So I threw on 6.2 injectors for the driver side only I had from the military re-power projects. It will now start after a long crank time on it's own. The other 4 just piss eye burning white smoke still. We will see exactly where the clearance problems are for long body injectors on the passenger side. :wacky:

Note: the first thing I had to do way above was order a starter brace bracket as it was missing. Under $15.00.
 
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More small things:
Fender flairs painted.
Grille out for oil cooler/AC Condenser debris clean out.

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so, dumb question, what is your "technique" on doing hinge pins without scuffing up the door? Floor jack and a helper, or an engine hoist by yourself?

I need to decide which route I need to take, but unfortunately no matter what, it will be on rough cement outside, no slick smooth stuff inside, as its all covered in auction crap... :)
 
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