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Tune, resistors and tcc

Parts stores sell aerosol can that you just put inside the supply side line and have the return line just go into a drain pan. Slip the hose in and wrap with a little duct tape to seal a little bit. Push the button until she is empty.
I usually do that then just shoot a little att through it afterwards with the air compressor.

I have seen people flush with couple new quarts of atf, but thats just as expensive and doesn’t clean it out as well.
 
The only reason I see why no using flex pipe there would be due to heat but I can see what harm it would have just used it for a few months. If you do that just be sure to leave enough pipe there to attach to with the flex
 
The cheapest cans of brake cleaner and the air compressor can flush out the lines too. Just be sure all the cleaner or whatever you use to flush it with is out and dry. Depends on how much crap is in there you might need to flush a couple times. When I had my radiator fixed I decided to flush the cooler in it and when I did all kinds of black mess came out! Flush it both ways too. You’ll need to separate the front cooler and the one in the radiator to flush them separately
 
Thanks guys..I have a compressor so I can do that..gonna take a cab to AutoZone in morning to get stuff.. that's a seriously expensive tab lol...I'm in the wrong business. If I remember correctly it's 8 guards of atf right.
 
And I have a bottle of tranny stop slip made by Lucas since I know nothing about this tranny y'all think I should dump that in her or wait and see how she runs first?
 
I’d wait and see how she runs. Others will chime in in it. I’m no expert!

you might be able to use a delivery service like favor or DoorDash to have your part delivered cheaper than a cab. Heck if you have good neighbors maybe they’ll give you a ride or let you borrow their vehicle!
 
Just thinking outside the box. If you have any 91% rubbing alcohol or maybe some gasoline to flush the lines with. Som kind of solvent that will dry out fast with air will work. Save you a little money

just be careful with gas and nearby sparks!!
 
The reason the atf flush is expensive is because if any accidentally gets missed, it won’t ruin the new transmission.
if you want to flush it with something cheap that you have on hand- diesel fuel. But if you don’t get rid of it all- no bueno.
 
Big T said:
For the crossover pipe bolts to manifold, I had a bolt break off on each side. I drilled them out and now use bolts with lock washers and nuts.
Click to expand...
The question there is can they be drilled while in the truck or do have to remove manifolds to do it. I would think just as much risk of breaking manifold bolts trying to take manifold out
 
Thank you. That's good to know for when we do change it.. for now I'm going to do the flex pipe thing cause I'm on a deadline...
Called boss a bit ago and told him I can't come in on Wednesday cause AutoZone won't have parts till 4:00 tomorrow. He said that's fine but if you're not here Thursday don't bother coming in Friday...
 
Oh crap, on the boss’s statement. That hurts.
A good transmission shop can flush the convertor. Used to be about $30.00, probably at least $50.00 by now.
Yeah diesel on the cooler flush. It then will take less B&P cleaner to get it finish flushed.
Damnit, I wish I was closer.
If You know someone that has one of those motorcycle ATV lifts, they work okay for a transmission jack.
I have done the teeter totter front to back and placing blocks under one end the the other until the right height and angle is obtained.
Just be careful however You lift the transmission, solidly tie the convertor into its position. If it slips out of the pump, when the trans gets bolted up, there goes the front pump.
 
Big T said:
What’s a transmission jack? Do they have attachments for a regular floor jack?
Click to expand...
YES THEY DO! They make a fully adjustable transmission cradle that replaces the swivel pad on the lift arm of an over 2 ton floor jack. I got mine off of eBay brand new for like $60 about six years ago. Works great with my 7,000lb cap. floor jack! (Works great for dropping fuel tanks, too!) The arms pivot and slide in and out independently, there's chain lengths attached to two arms to put over the top of the tranny to slip into clevises on the other side to tie the tranny to the cradle. There is also tilt adjustment for L-R and a lead screw to adjust fore-aft tilt!
www.ebay.com

Premium Floor Jack Adapter for Transmission Repair Tool 1100lbs 1/2 Ton Capacity | eBay

Want to convert your floor jacks into transmission jacks?. Look no further! 1X1/2 ton Transmission Jack Adapter. EASILY converts your floor jacks into transmission jacks. Weight capacity: 1,100lbs. Made of iron, our product is durable and will last for years.
www.ebay.com
 
Husker6.5 said:
YES THEY DO! They make a fully adjustable transmission cradle that replaces the swivel pad on the lift arm of an over 2 ton floor jack. I got mine off of eBay brand new for like $60 about six years ago. Works great with my 7,000lb cap. floor jack! (Works great for dropping fuel tanks, too!) The arms pivot and slide in and out independently, there's chain lengths attached to two arms to put over the top of the tranny to slip into clevises on the other side to tie the tranny to the cradle. There is also tilt adjustment for L-R and a lead screw to adjust fore-aft tilt!
www.ebay.com

Premium Floor Jack Adapter for Transmission Repair Tool 1100lbs 1/2 Ton Capacity | eBay

Want to convert your floor jacks into transmission jacks?. Look no further! 1X1/2 ton Transmission Jack Adapter. EASILY converts your floor jacks into transmission jacks. Weight capacity: 1,100lbs. Made of iron, our product is durable and will last for years.
www.ebay.com
Click to expand...
I must get one.!! That's a awesome idea
 
I've used this little guy when doing my trans, harbor freight sells the same thing for about $50 cheaper

www.tooldiscounter.com

American Forge & Foundry 3160 Transmission And Differential Jack, 450 lb Capacity | ToolDiscounter

Transmission And Differential Jack, 450 lb Capacity. Shop American Forge & Foundry Transmission And Differential Jack, 450 lb Capacity at ToolDiscounter
www.tooldiscounter.com www.tooldiscounter.com

Good luck Stoney, sounds like modifying the crossover is the best way to keep ya on the road.

When eventually replacing the crossover, put plenty of anti seize on the threads and nuts to make it somewhat easier in the future. I actually installed studs into the manifolds, as it was really hard to get bolts threaded in while holding the manifold in place. The studs allow for the 3 hole clamp to be aligned and you can get the nuts started on by hand without fighting yourself. What works best for removing in the future is a regular wall deep 15mm socket on a few extensions. For these trucks in general, the regular deep 15mm socket is an essential tool- its the only way to remove a few bellhousing bolts for my manual trans.

A MAP gas torch also works really well for small rusted bolts
 
yep, MAP gas bottle and torch heads aren't too expensive at your local home depot and lowes hardware stores. but the quick n dirty keep ya on the road fix is the sawzaw and flex pipe lol

use the antiseze that has copper in it for the manifold and crossover bolts and studs when you replace it.
 
Ok heading to AutoZone to get rear main seal, front and rear tranny seals, tranny filter, brake cleaner, now the age old debate. What tranny fluid do I get .. I used Castrol dex/Merc on the old tranny . No clue what previous owner used( don't know what kind the tranny I'm putting in has in it now either obviously....). My only concern is what if the new tranny has had synthetic in it and I put regular old dex / Merc in it...will it hurt the tranny? What's y'all's suggestions for brand and what kind .
 
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