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What did you do with your GMT400 today...or yesterday....

I have an HE351VE that is getting a 63mm compressor wheel when I do the pump. It leaks oil pretty bad so needs a rebuild anyway. May be switching over to air to water CAC as well.
I would love to see a write up on this being done. I am still looking at the hx35/40 but running oil for it is difficult on center mount in hummer. I would love to see options of coolant used instead.
 
Taking off door panel is best for the rods.
The latch mechanism, you can just spray the heck out of it from the latch area and it will improve, but it is collective resistance at each point that creates problems. Definitely do the latch until you can get to the inside of the panel
 
I would love to see a write up on this being done. I am still looking at the hx35/40 but running oil for it is difficult on center mount in hummer. I would love to see options of coolant used instead.

Going to follow this video for the rebuild -
.

I ordered the larger compressor wheel/housing and basic rebuild kit from Prosource Diesel a few weeks ago so I just need to get the turbo off the engine. My only concern is going to be getting the turbine assembly balanced with the new compressor wheel.
 
Going to follow this video for the rebuild -
.

I ordered the larger compressor wheel/housing and basic rebuild kit from Prosource Diesel a few weeks ago so I just need to get the turbo off the engine. My only concern is going to be getting the turbine assembly balanced with the new compressor wheel.

Thanks. What I am really trying to learn is about the water cooled units, I wasn’t clear about that. Not the water to air cooled unit for charge air, but the turbo itself that uses engine coolant instead of engine oil. I have heard there is some folks doing this on the older holsets and such. I realized after my response that you were referring to charge air cooling.
 
Thanks. What I am really trying to learn is about the water cooled units, I wasn’t clear about that. Not the water to air cooled unit for charge air, but the turbo itself that uses engine coolant instead of engine oil. I have heard there is some folks doing this on the older holsets and such. I realized after my response that you were referring to charge air cooling.

I knew you meant coolant for the turbo, I guess I just missed it in my reply. The HE351VE has both oil and coolant feeds - oil to lubricate the turbine shaft, and coolant to cool the cartridge and VGT actuator. I put the coolant feed and return in line with the heater core hose so it was pretty straight forward. On the turbo, the original coolant feed and return ports were banjo fittings on the top and bottom of the cartridge, but there isn't clearance for them on the 6.5L so they were plugged. John had me drill out and tap alternate side ports to use instead, works great.
 
Ok. There are some large Diesel engines like a cat generator at my work which only use coolant, no oil pumping through. Thats what I was hoping to learn is if that is applicable to these smaller units.
 
Can you just stick the straw up in the latch mechanism and spray from there, or should you take it out and be more precise? The lock mechanism on my passenger door is gummed up or binding, I have to press the lock button multiple times to get it to fully engage the lock.

As Will noted, more likely the rods are gummed up. If the latch itself is sticking, more than likely you need a new one.
 
Taking off door panel is best for the rods.
The latch mechanism, you can just spray the heck out of it from the latch area and it will improve, but it is collective resistance at each point that creates problems. Definitely do the latch until you can get to the inside of the panel
As Will noted, more likely the rods are gummed up. If the latch itself is sticking, more than likely you need a new one.
Latches all working smooth and easy. It was a problem with the wifey, and, She never takes that extra split second to make sure that everything is okay. She unlocked the door to get in and then failed to turn the key back to the neutral position, with the teeth of the key pointing skywards and the other side groundwards. Still left it in the lock position.
I inserted My key then turned it counterclockwise to the straight up/dwn position and the locking mechanisms now are functiong as they should. LOL
 
I picked up one of the VCX Nano interface modules from Amazon so I could have full Tech2 functionality. Ran a TDC relearn just for giggles to test it and my pump timing was way off. I think the shop that replaced the heads knocked the pump off and didn't fix it. Got the TDCO back down to -1.26 and took it for a test drive. I havent messed with the VGT for a while so I hooked the laptop up to the controller and noticed it wasn't reading boost pressure, although I was seeing boost on my pillar gauge. Set it to 30% open and unplugged the sensor so it wouldn't try to move and its running like it is supposed to again. No surge, no hesitation, no smoke. Maybe the IP was good after all? Oh well, the Beast pump is still going in sometime.
 
1999 Suburban (totaled July 2019)
Removed:
S&B/Heath Air Cleaner, Upper and Lower Intake, Turbo, PT Wiring Solutions Batter Cables, Painless 4 High and HD Headlight Harnesses, Front Turn Signals w/ LED Lamps, LED Tail Lights, Optima Batteries and some other stuff. Sold the Body, Interior, Engine etc. Closed Chapter.
 
Hauled the new coated radiator, from Twisted Steel Performance, to the garage.
The boy child is suppose to come over tonight or tomorrow and help remove lift and motorcycle from the working bay. After he installs the winterfront on his truck, then maybe, I’ll install the new radiator.
 
Thanks! I pulled the paint code off of my buddy's '05 Duramax. GM calls it cashmere. It's close to the original color of the donor for this truck. It hides dirt well- very important when then pavement ends just past my property. Dust rolls past my house in the summer time!
 
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