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Best air filter set up on 6.5

Stoney

Well-Known Member
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Elmira ny
Just want to get other guys opinions of the best air filter system from the air box to the turbo what brand of filters do you think are the best and what piping design do you find the most effective for the most power out of your engine.... Also curious if anybody else has put a bypass from your PCV out the bottom of the truck instead of back into the turbo ..... Also curious about best oil and fuel filters..
 
Honestly...I'm kind of considering giving up on this truck...it seems like everything I do that gets me more horsepower people tell me I shouldn't be doing.... And that it's damaging the truck by doing it... Just to use this as an example... With the stock factory air box on it with the CdR hooked up it feels like there is a governor on the engine. Can't get the power out of it...if I have that chrome pipe tube in my one picture on it with a cone filter and everything else by past it takes off like a rocket and has a ton of power but I'm told that the cone style filters are not good for it and as you said I need to have that CD are hooked up so it's kind of getting frustrating that I have to leave the stuff hooked up that makes the truck slow down and not have power... I'm completely open to suggestions that are cheap LOL
 
Only needs the vacuum if your worried about seals slobbering. I've never replaced a CDR, there's not much in them to go wrong If it gets really gunked up you can clean it. I tore one apart to see what is in it, and there's not much to it, a diaphram and a spring. I tested every chemical in my shop on it and couldn't hurt the diaphram. there is a vent hole on the back side you should avoid getting stuff into.
Several people have run what they call a road draft tube (no CDR and a hose down under the vehicle) won't pass emission testing tho.
I can't imagine the filter and piping giving you much if any HP increase
 
Okay my first question is what does seal slobbering mean??? Second question is what is the difference between running a hose right out of the valve cover out of the bottom of the truck compared to running it off to CDR write out the bottom of the truck?? I hope I'm not understanding what you were saying in that correctly...I don't have to worry about emissions because in New York we don't have emissions testing on diesels thank God..lol. I agree that it doesn't make sense to gain that much horsepower just by changing the air intake system but with the setup I put on it it will haul ass up a mountain... Don't get me wrong it would climb them with the factory system but it would not accelerate on the hills like it does now... I won't lie I was actually impressed a while back before I changed it a buddy of mine had me hook up to eight 18 foot agricultural dump trailer one of those huge beasts... Which weighs 4 ton by itself and it was loaded to the top of its five foot walls with roofing from a tear off job on one of his buildings...when I pulled on the scale at the landfill my total weight truck trailer and load was 24400 lb...I just glad I didn't have to go up any hills to get there cuz I don't think it would have done it LOL.. I'm just trying to figure out what I can and cannot do to it considering it has almost 220,000 miles on it...I like I said before I'm no professional diesel mechanic so I don't really know how far I can push it without blowing it up... I see you guys talking about trucks having a lot of or very little blow-by but I've never figured out how to testing for that... But if I understand right it means how much exhaust pressure is getting past the Piston rings .. please correct me if I'm wrong cuz like I said I'm still learning
 
slobbering mean oil leaking past the seals kinda like after you go to the dentist LOL. there's really no difference on how you run the CDR hose the CDR defaults to wide open. to test for blowby remove the oil fill cap while idling with the CDR system hooked up you should see little or no air movement, it usually looks like wispy smoke, so the less the better. with 220k on it it's anybodies guess how long and hard you can push it
 
Thankfully previous owner bought it brand new in 97... he was an older gentleman that just used it to tow his boat to the lake and back according to his son who went to Georgia and got it and brought it up to New York when his father died... He sold it to me a week after bringing it up here... So thankfully the engine never had much cold start on it like we have up here... Hack the frame still had the original factory paint on it when I got it last year and there was no rust on the body.. unfortunately that's changing very quickly..lol.. from what I read the easier life the engine has had the less blow by it would have if I'm correct... I'm going to see if I can figure out a way to post a video on here with the engine running to see what yall think of the blow-by..I know if I put a piece of white tissue on top of the oil filler tube with it running I can leave it sitting there with my hand over it and it doesn't get any oil mist on it...
 
It runs at about 180...if hauling something heavy it might go up to 195-200 on hills... I've been thinking about getting one of those dual fan units that bolts onto the back side of the radiator..
 
I thought the point of those fans was to pull more air through the radiator causing it to run cooler
 
And I thought these smelled bad on the outside! Modern EPA oil for DPF diesels, you can't hardly get anything else, stinks especially after an oil change. We don't have an intercooler that oil would insulate so it really doesn't hurt to leave the CDR in place. I am considering putting a CDR on my road draft tube 2003 Cummins due to CJ4 oil stink at a stop light intercooler be dammed.

Air filter study
http://www.billswebspace.com/AirFilterTest.htm

Yeah paper or dry aftermarket filter that is focused on filtering.

Look up windmill effect. An airplane prop on a dead engine causes less drag than a spinning one that's driving the dead engine.

Same with electric fans. Freestanding rating is 5000 CFM. A mechanical fan with hood closed and radiator restrictions is over 10,000 CFM. The 10,000 CFM fan I measured on something else didn't have enough pitch and I ran hot when I used it on my 1993. So ours move way over 10,000 CFM. It is attempting to spin the electric fan faster than the motor wants to go. Thus restriction...

Want to run cooler? Get a better turbo that doesn't hold so much heat in the engine via back pressure like the GMx turbos do.
 
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