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Bringing 1993 Patch back from the dead...

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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As the engine is the problem rather than the Moose Call IP a separate build thread is in order. The discussion circled the drain pretty close for "parting it out" or selling as 'runs and drives' as - is. Only ONE thing saved it : I still own a Cumapart and need to send the turbo out for a different housing and rebuild if it's the source of extreme oil consumption. Not having a rental is going to cover the costs of bringing Patch back from the dead. Never mind the good front end anything else this age won't have and being within reach of a running Moose pump I have waited years to obtain. Yeah, I could throw it back together and it would still go down the road as is.

WTH I need to change the engine mounts to the poly ones I have had around for a year so I can run the Dmax fan again. Good excuse to do so.

If I could find a "classic" insurance company that didn't need pictures I would sure as #ell use it and stop the emissions tests in their tracks. With an automatic: a working IP governor isn't needed unless the trans fails. For "Snap" emissions testing a working governor is needed. I obtained a 6.5 IP from an engine that lost compression to upgrade the 6.2 pump I had. Ran great until the second I went into emissions testing... The governor test went over 4200 RPM and I s#it my pants. In hindsight, being 20-20, It was slow to accelerate from then on and was so clean it failed rather that blow out the equipment. The Moose pump with paperwork also ran bad, but, passed by not zeroing the equipment.

In tracking down the problem I went from high-pop injectors to what Conestoga Diesel Injection recommended and built. Started way easier, but, still has problems. Vids show how bad Patch's engine is.




Compression test.

1) 320 2) 260
3) 300 4) 200
5) 260 6) 260
7) 300 8) 260

4200 RPM on a 3600 RPM redline engine hammered the valves bad enough to loose compression. I have one generic 6.5/6.2 head with all 8 precups and lots of spare valves around.

The real question is going to be if I can pull the heads without pulling the entire engine out due to the Red threadlocker on the ARP head studs.
 
So got my buddy over to help after working on it for a couple days to get ready to pull. The Yank Converter "hub" stuck in the crankshaft and pulled completely out of the transmission like I left a bolt in. As the bolt holes didn't line up anymore... Managed to get it shoved back in the trans before it fell out while pulling the engine. It will need a new front seal no doubt. This truck is extended cab longer than the yellow 1992 project so we took the engine over the driver side fender to avoid going down the steep slope driveway.

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Biodiesel from a leaking injector, return, etc, turned the engine mount into door seal soft rubber...

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UH-HO. It's not looking good. :vomit:

Pulling the passenger head found the exhaust valve tip on the lowest compression cylinder hammered. Valve stem seals were so hard they held the valve springs on alone.

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All 4 pistons cracked like this. WTF. :wtf: #6 shown.

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No pictures yet, but, the head is cracked across the valves for #8. Odd hard white crust on the head like a coolant leak, but, no sign of leaking from the head gasket. Crust was the lower left corner a ways away from the coolant passage. Scuffing in the #8 cylinder there. Also some white on the intake valve for the low compression cylinder. The low compression cylinder has coolant pitting damage, still, from the day we got the engine. Can see the hatch marks still from the deglaze except where the cylinders are scuffed. Don't have the driver side head off yet.
 
Is this the engine that saw sustained egts of 1550?

No. It hasn't has easy EGT's but never could throw more than 1400 EGT or so at it. The 6.2 pumps couldn't get more than 1100 EGT. I suspect the advance I had to use as part of the problem keeping the things in cylinder hot. Glow plugs show erosion from too much timing.

The valves are shot for sure. Mainly from just wear. These heads came off a worn out 6.5 and went on this engine with zero attention.
 
Good carnage as usual! Keep up the good work! Haha

But I am not even getting warmed up yet! :facepalm: Give me credit for another running "walking dead zombie engine".

@smokymtn65 wins a prize for a good guess in the Moose Call thread. I could hear a knock on the driver's side and now I know why. Under the cap out of sight... I need to go break the rest of the intake valve springs to bring the compression up to the minimums, yeah, #1 with broken spring had the highest compression! :wtf:

Sounded like mine when it broke a valve spring

:snaphappy:

I never liked the bronze insert sticking out this far so I was the first valve I pulled on the driver's side head, #1 intake.

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Lots of carbon on head gasket and you see where valve has been tapping piston.

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And the "quarterback is toast" on the "Hail Mary pass"... :banghead:

Camshaft lobe wiped: likely for the hammered exhaust valve. Some silver in the oil pan and now I know where it's from.

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One of two heads cracked. #8 cracked. (I have another head and a set of 8 precups. So I got two heads that can be rebuilt.)

Oh yeah, Who the F paints their rebuilt heads gold? Paint is starting to flake in places. No you are not seeing things... It's painted on the inside oil contact areas of the heads.

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200 PSI hole...
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Valves:

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Nothing to worry about of the cylinder walls - can't feel them. The concern is the coolant damage, pitting, this engine has had since we got it surplus used military.

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Coolant/water rust pitting on 200 PSI hole:
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Check how easily the rings do or dont rotate around the piston as they come out. Also ring gap in the cylinders.
On the vertical marked ones take a closer look at the rings in that location if not able to spin much on the piston, and maily look at piston skirts as the culprit for those vertical marks.

The life of valve springs is a hard to set item. I bet if you were to test them, 40% or more would pass. Yet obviously they are done and then some, with valve kissing piston probably adding to the death here. I don’t see enough built up carbon on piston tops to have made up the clearance diffence, and we see valve smack marks. More than just the broken spring hit? you can bet they weren’t staying sealed at the high rpm. A little chatter goes a long ways.

Pretty easy to see the marks of the flame on top of those pistons. Almost like watching those videos in slow mo and can picture that shock wave right as it hits the piston.

On an off beat note- zooming in on the head/ valve spring pics the sockets on the organizer caught my eye. Try flipping them over the other way. Those are designed to hold them face down. That way they can alwyas show the size. On 1/2 deeps when upsidedown they will totally block the top.
I love those Hansen holders! For anyone wanting something better at home, try them.
 
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