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H1 Hummer Cummins Swapped
- Thread starter LowRam
- Start date
That is a piston oiler, Look at the main journals on your block and you will see them.
Yes, you do lose the E-Brake. I wasn't keen on it, but this one is a Dune Toy and aptly prone to faulty inputs by the loose nut on the wheel that may negate the usefulness of any braking assist.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
A few guys have done brake mod using front calipers on the rear to avoid the crazy priced rear calipers.
Then add on the hmmwv driveline parking brake. One guy I helped, had 1 good and 1 bad rear caliper. So we made a bracket and used the good rear unit on a homemade driveline brake disk.
I thought about adding a Mico lock system, then while deciding which one to buy, got a good price on spare new rear calipers, so am sticking with stock ones for now.
Then add on the hmmwv driveline parking brake. One guy I helped, had 1 good and 1 bad rear caliper. So we made a bracket and used the good rear unit on a homemade driveline brake disk.
I thought about adding a Mico lock system, then while deciding which one to buy, got a good price on spare new rear calipers, so am sticking with stock ones for now.
When we set up the big brakes the first time we had an Alpha in the shop, and wonder of wonder, they have big brakes with the same brackets. So it was pretty simple.
Seems to me they used a bigger brake in the back too, but I have to go back in my notes, getting a bit of CRS now-a-day. That being the case, a set of stock rear brakes would have the e-brake. They wouldn't be Wilwood cool, but a bigger brake none the less.
Matter af fact, that one should be coming back for maintenance before long and I'll make a point of measuring.
Seems to me they used a bigger brake in the back too, but I have to go back in my notes, getting a bit of CRS now-a-day. That being the case, a set of stock rear brakes would have the e-brake. They wouldn't be Wilwood cool, but a bigger brake none the less.
Matter af fact, that one should be coming back for maintenance before long and I'll make a point of measuring.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
The calipers on the 2006 alpha are the same as the other years but the larger diameter rotors require the larger caliper bracket.
Same for hmmwvs including the ecv which runs the solid rotor.
I can’t remember if it was 06 when they went to the larger calipers or earlier.
Something to seriously consider with any brake upgrade is coating the rotors, and possibly even the cup of the cv joint that bolts to them with TLTD. Everything people do to try rejecting heat to the rotors like drilled, slotted, etc is great for on road but mud and dirt gets trapped in the cuts and wears out brake pads amazingly fast. Use of a wmi cooling system for the brakes like Banks did on the race truck might be over the top though- haha.
If antilock brakes are in play, much stronger calipers can make a great difference, but in my experience locking up brakes from 10-80 mph- it doesn’t matter if the rotors are small or large or if it is a stock single piston or quads.
Same for hmmwvs including the ecv which runs the solid rotor.
I can’t remember if it was 06 when they went to the larger calipers or earlier.
Something to seriously consider with any brake upgrade is coating the rotors, and possibly even the cup of the cv joint that bolts to them with TLTD. Everything people do to try rejecting heat to the rotors like drilled, slotted, etc is great for on road but mud and dirt gets trapped in the cuts and wears out brake pads amazingly fast. Use of a wmi cooling system for the brakes like Banks did on the race truck might be over the top though- haha.
If antilock brakes are in play, much stronger calipers can make a great difference, but in my experience locking up brakes from 10-80 mph- it doesn’t matter if the rotors are small or large or if it is a stock single piston or quads.
Picked up the cab today off the frame and its all started to come together. My adapter plate was only tagged to the block with 2 bolts and was peeling away at the top. Made it look like I was out of room when it was getting close to right.
My 97 has a factory 1/2 inch body lift (dont laugh. Its true) to clear the 6.5 TD. I pulled it out and cut my own 1.5"lift pucks to replace. I'm not a fan of lift kits so I'm going minimal. Driveshaft interferes with gas tank so it will need shimming down too. Lift kit in UHMW and original lift next to 1.5 inch lift spacers. Hood will need some blocks too.
My 97 has a factory 1/2 inch body lift (dont laugh. Its true) to clear the 6.5 TD. I pulled it out and cut my own 1.5"lift pucks to replace. I'm not a fan of lift kits so I'm going minimal. Driveshaft interferes with gas tank so it will need shimming down too. Lift kit in UHMW and original lift next to 1.5 inch lift spacers. Hood will need some blocks too.
Will L.
Well-Known Member
Im with you on body lifts on hummers. My 95 is still stock. Rather than lift my body to clear for the factory center mount turbo, I modified the intake crossover. I cant remember if there was anything else I did- I slept too much since then.
Since then I have came to the conclusion a lift of 1” or 2” would be ok. I still dont want to run larger than the stock 37” tires. But clearance for a big boy turbo would be ok.
What are the pucks made out of?
Since then I have came to the conclusion a lift of 1” or 2” would be ok. I still dont want to run larger than the stock 37” tires. But clearance for a big boy turbo would be ok.
What are the pucks made out of?
Husker6.5
135' diagonal 16:9HD, 25KW sound!
They look like polypropylene (says the guy who works in a plastic injection moulding factory).
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
The 1st gen Cummins 2wd downpipe has a even more pronounced bend under the turbine then slightly bends towards the block and down, an 8.3 Cummins cobra-head is about the tightest w/o going custom.
Attachments
You can buy a lift kit for 600-700usd from several places. Mine cost $4.95. I had to buy a 5/8 drill bit from home depot.
UHMW is the plastic. I had 3" bar of it left over from some lathe project. I put a flat side on it in my table saw and bucked the bar up in my chop saw at 1.5" each. Drilled the 5/8 hole in the middle of each one. I'll grab some longer bolts today.
UHMW is the plastic. I had 3" bar of it left over from some lathe project. I put a flat side on it in my table saw and bucked the bar up in my chop saw at 1.5" each. Drilled the 5/8 hole in the middle of each one. I'll grab some longer bolts today.
That's excellent to know. I'm not sure yet how close the full exhaust will be. I'm putting a pacbrake in there too. I'll see today with a proper angle on the manifold.
FellowTraveler
Well-Known Member
Best practice is to attach the down pipe to perhaps bellhousing or trans adapter too support the weight of any added items like the pack brake reducing stress & preventing exhaust manifold from cracking or even breaking off.
Turbo plumbing taking shape. I'm headed behind the cylinder head to the water/air intercooler which will be about where the stock fuel filter is usually.
I'm replacing the mechanical fuel pump and filter with an airdog unit. It's getting tricky as I now need a 1/2" supply line from the tank . And I have dual tanks. And the ford style Pollak tank selector valve is really tiny for flow.
I'm replacing the mechanical fuel pump and filter with an airdog unit. It's getting tricky as I now need a 1/2" supply line from the tank . And I have dual tanks. And the ford style Pollak tank selector valve is really tiny for flow.