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ok, fellas, what would you do?

Pruittx2

Been around a bit
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Location
Lake Odessa, Mi
So the Burb at 200K has decided to start hard or not at all when temps are over 80f after a shut down of 20- to 120 mins. Ip getting hot and out of spec. pour bottle of water on IP fires right up. I have located a New only 1000 mile IP a fella had installed then truck over heated for other reasons, blew engine so he parted it out. I can pick it up for $550.

Now at 200k and running great, no issues over the last several thousand miles, I'm gonna R&R that pump, so while in there, Who's with me on the
"I should do the timing chain and gears while that close?"
"I should do Harmonic Balancer while there?" <--- It looks perfectly fine, with no degradation of the rubber.

truck had new H20 pump and hoses when purchased in 13 @ 125k. But figured I'd do those too.
Valve covers pretty leaky so I'll do those as well.

What am I missing, or should also be considering??
 
new one was HO pump. Single stat,, FTB already done. When I bought it the 2nd owner's mechanic was all about Health diesel, and had most of his products/suggestions installed at the time.
 
Then on the fuel side, just put a T right at the ip input for fuel pressure gauge. How I am going to do mine this time is electric gauge. 1 sensor in T @ the ip. The other will be on line feeding the ffm or maybe Leroys ffm tap. Then those 2 wires go to a switch to a single gauge. Then when I want a flip of the switch to see if it’s time for a filter swap.

As for the water pump- HO waterpump that is the 4 bolt or the balanced flow? I would do the balanced flow conversion if it is 4 bolt now unless you have V belts.

Even if you dont see the high temps on the gauge, the gauge sensor is not in the right rear head where the damage occurs (there and block). Getting the balanced flow waterpump protects the block and heads. But with 200,000 miles- it may not be worth it. Temp has killed more 6.5s than anything imo, so I always worry about it.
 
no worries,,, The most work it gets is plowing snow. I don't tow anything, and family vaca's in mid summer is here in Michigan, and I go north. Not to say we don't see 100F here,, but even with AC kicking,, all black and full of family, dogs Kayak's on roof, I have NEVER seen over 205 on the temp gauge. I do have mod'd clutch and plastic fan. It almost always is sitting at 195 on gauge.
 

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When you ready for an engine let me know. I have more choices than just the two on the site now.

BTW and FWIW Im going to pick up the last 5 P400s from GEP tomorrow. Only have 2 of the 4 left in a side mount set up. Rest are center mount turbo long blocks.
 
Come on Leroy! Valve cover gaskets man! Push the new gaskets too for one stop shopping!
Do we have valve cover gaskets now?

How do those work? How do they hold up?

Are they rubber?

I have some valve covers to do.

I've been using right stuff. That is more permanent than I like.

http://leroydiesel.com/products/valve-cover-gasket-kit/

Does Leroy have the valve covers also? Or where is the best place to buy valve covers?
Finally a set of valve cover gaskets for the 6.5 and 6.2 diesel that doesn’t leak.
Gone are the days of having to glue the cover to the head.
These are reusable.
Torque to 45-50 inch #s.
You will get two gaskets and the 8 line up dowel pins.
Make sure your covers and head surface is perfectly clean and oil free. It best to start with new covers as most are bent/warped removing them originally.
Product Price:USD 62.00
 
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IIRC, I saw where Leroy commented to use sealant with the valve covers as well. Leroy . . . ?


A few years ago AC Delco still had the valve covers available. Had to go through a few in an attempt to get them to seal correctly.
 
@Burning oil What is currently status with or without sealant?

I was thinking we need someone to make forever valve covers. Cut the bendy thin crap off the bottom and water jet some 1/8” steel plate in that shape and tig the tin back to it.

Yeah, believe in reinventing the wheel. Why? Because I don't want this:
DEE2D387-4A5F-40A8-8BB6-AA4657C1E686.png
 
With a clear piece on the top so you could see the rockers...

I have spent some time with a foundry about cast aluminum... not a cheap thing to produce..

But a welded aluminum would be doable, but their again the cost would not be in most folks wallet that own these trucks so I sat the idea to the side...
 
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