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My first B100 experience

Matt Bachand

Matt Bachand

Depends on the 6.5
Messages
5,330
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28
Location
Worcester, MA
Well, since the Racor/walbro/fuel pressure gauge installed, I now trust my system enough, and can monitor it enough to start using B100 as additive.

SO.

I put 15 gallons in my Transfer Tank, and 1 gallon into my front tank, and topped that off with regular diesel for a 1:22 mix, or roughly a touch less than 5%.

I also added 1 gallon into my rear tank which will be back in service in a few weeks hopefully with new sender.................................... just to clean it out.


Now, first experience. It had a browninsh tint to it, and you could absolutely feel the lubricity it it between your fingers. It smells like a deep fryer!!!!!!!!!!! Made me want french fries!!!!

Now, as I have commented before about noticing power gains by doing little things such as the plastic PVC elbow correcting the rubber boot by the air cleaner, and eliminating the over restrictive factory piece. I have also noted it may be placebo effect.

Well, now the effect is the opposite. I noticed a touch less power. Engine ran great, seems to be just as quiet as the SAE 30 i've been using.

I like the idea of super lubricity though, and based on that study B100 is king by a long shot.

Price was 2.89 a gallon, so roughly the same price as SAE 30 for additive.

My front tank and FSU are new, most of the lines are new, so I'm not to worried about any gummy cleanout cloggin anything. Plus the racor there is alwatys nice, and I can monitor the pressure anyhow.

Is there another downside to running pure B100 besides needing pure viton lines? Summertime of course, i assume it will be a bear in these cold climates to keep this stuff thin.

I really like the idea of supporting American farmers.

Thoughts, opinions, or comments?
 
On another note, radio commercials have said that Massachusetts will be the first state to MANDATE a mix of Bio in home heating fuels next year. I think this is wonderful.
 
My only ? is with the lubricity study. They ranked B100 as the best but they used quite of it. Wouldn't that be akin to putting more 30wt in? Why not just a quart of it at fill up like the 30wt?
 
ak diesel driver said:
My only ? is with the lubricity study. They ranked B100 as the best but they used quite of it. Wouldn't that be akin to putting more 30wt in? Why not just a quart of it at fill up like the 30wt?
Click to expand...

I would have to guess because a gallon of 30wt would add too much thickness to the mix.

What is the most recommended mixture with only diesel rated rubber lines? Bio-Freaks please chime in!
 
ak diesel driver said:
Matt Bachand said:
I would have to guess because a gallon of 30wt would add too much thickness to the mix.

So is the lubricity comparable volume to volume or is the b100 still better?
Click to expand...

I will leave this alone and see what others say, but there are also other benefits to bio, such as algea prevention, and apparently it cleans out the system really REALLY good. (Sometimes TOO good).

Closest place to me is about 40 miles away, but judging by what others have to travel, it seems that is really close.

I will find the link again that will find bio fuel closest to zip code.
Click to expand...
 
30 wt oil is not made to be burned, which is why I use 2 stroke oil.

When I get home(very soon) I will try to find a place that has some good old bio.(Thanks for the links Matt!)

Bio has a lot of benefits and the only bad down side is when you first start using it, it cleans everything the dirty old diesel touches. Which is why everybody emphasizes the need to keep and change your fuel filter(s).

They have a study of what is the best for lubrication, read it.
 
Question for you Matt (or any others) I have a buddy of mine who is mass producing (well, mass to me) - he is making it 80 gallons at a time and has a 1200 gallon storage tank. He is going to let me purchase it for a little over cost. Obviously, I want to run it in my 6.5 and my two tractors. The whole 'cloggin up the snot sock' has me a little worried. I understand the biodiesel cleans everything up in there and could clog the sock. I've already run several bottles (two in one dose with less than half tank of fuel) of Sea Foam through my tank - early on right after I bought her when I thought it had a cogged/dirty injector.
My question is, if anything was going to break free and clog up my sock wouldn't in have already happened? Also, how many lines are you talking about having to replace to run b100?
Thanks
Smitty
 
DieselCash said:
30 wt oil is not made to be burned, which is why I use 2 stroke oil.

When I get home(very soon) I will try to find a place that has some good old bio.(Thanks for the links Matt!)

Bio has a lot of benefits and the only bad down side is when you first start using it, it cleans everything the dirty old diesel touches. Which is why everybody emphasizes the need to keep and change your fuel filter(s).

They have a study of what is the best for lubrication, read it.
Click to expand...

GMCTD Stated before, that 2-stroke oil IS indeed made to be burned, but via SPARK COMBUSTION. Our engines are OIL BURNERS. THus the recommendation to use SAE 30 NON-Detergent oil.

Then there is the issue of that dark blue dye, possibly not good for the high resolution optic eye in the injection pump.

Either probably both work just fine IMO. Forum paranoia gets ya thinkin too much sometimes :)
 
Odlaw said:
Question for you Matt (or any others) I have a buddy of mine who is mass producing (well, mass to me) - he is making it 80 gallons at a time and has a 1200 gallon storage tank. He is going to let me purchase it for a little over cost. Obviously, I want to run it in my 6.5 and my two tractors. The whole 'cloggin up the snot sock' has me a little worried. I understand the biodiesel cleans everything up in there and could clog the sock. I've already run several bottles (two in one dose with less than half tank of fuel) of Sea Foam through my tank - early on right after I bought her when I thought it had a cogged/dirty injector.
My question is, if anything was going to break free and clog up my sock wouldn't in have already happened? Also, how many lines are you talking about having to replace to run b100?
Thanks
Smitty
Click to expand...

To run b100 you would have to replace all hoses going from tank to Injection pump, and return, including injector return lines, with viton or a bio-compatible rubber.

I have a new fuel tank and FSU, with new Racor install, alot of new line. The only existing rubber hose I have is from the walbro to the filter manager, and the small length from flt mgr to injection pump. And of course, the return lines.

I would be worrying everytime the wind blew if I didn't have a fuel pressure gauge, which is why I never tried it before.

And of course, winter climate is NOT the time to try anything new to fuel systems. Way too many variables invovlved IMO.
 
Here in minnesota ,diesel fuel is required to be 5% b100. I didn't know that untill I read the test and then asked the local oil distributer about it. I have no need for additives now. Well maybe a shot of power service when it getting to =10 or colder to prevent gel-up.
 
bk95td said:
Here in minnesota ,diesel fuel is required to be 5% b100. I didn't know that untill I read the test and then asked the local oil distributer about it. I have no need for additives now. Well maybe a shot of power service when it getting to =10 or colder to prevent gel-up.
Click to expand...

Good news!!! Hopefully they will do this country wide! It helps american farmers, and older diesel trucks, as well as newer.

FWIW fuel can gel up in the 30's, so don't wait til -10. I'd start adding additives when overnight gets under 40.

You never know what / when the station starts using #1 or what additives.

That would make it b05 diesel then. Just so people know b20 is 20% bio, b100 is 100% etc...
 
It also eats the seals in the fuel filter manager. I changed all mine to viton. got them at the Parker Store. 2 Stroke oil will not hurt the IP. IN fact ,st Dodge guys run it 128:1. Some guys even burn there waste motor oil on the fuel(which to me is nuts). I can get that suff but I wouldn't use it. I use plain ol standyne additive mos of the time. The ULSD I buy is treated anyway. Most station won't buy it because the cheap Hodgies won't spend the extra .75/ cent for it. IIRC Dieselpro had spoken out against it and he rebuilds them. I was looking into building an appleseed reactor when diesel was 5$ a galllon but after hearing that from him and Tim from Accurate saying bio was keeping him busy at the shop with Ip rebuilds that was enough for me. I can buy b20 or Bio heat but I don't want to run that stuff through my trucks. Too costly to start changing seals and pumps. A pump is about 4 grand.
I probably have the product bullitens around somewhere. Heating Oil will be low sulphur soon anyway.
 
Acesneights1 said:
It also eats the seals in the fuel filter manager. I changed all mine to viton. got them at the Parker Store. 2 Stroke oil will not hurt the IP. IN fact ,st Dodge guys run it 128:1. Some guys even burn there waste motor oil on the fuel(which to me is nuts). I can get that suff but I wouldn't use it. I use plain ol standyne additive mos of the time. The ULSD I buy is treated anyway. Most station won't buy it because the cheap Hodgies won't spend the extra .75/ cent for it. IIRC Dieselpro had spoken out against it and he rebuilds them. I was looking into building an appleseed reactor when diesel was 5$ a galllon but after hearing that from him and Tim from Accurate saying bio was keeping him busy at the shop with Ip rebuilds that was enough for me. I can buy b20 or Bio heat but I don't want to run that stuff through my trucks. Too costly to start changing seals and pumps. A pump is about 4 grand.
I probably have the product bullitens around somewhere. Heating Oil will be low sulphur soon anyway.
Click to expand...

I can't see 5% mix doing any damage to any seals. I hope.......... Things were fine with the 30wt.... damn impulses........................................................................................................................... Oh well.

Turbo Tahoe and others been using mix's for a while without any issues. Forum paranoia gettin my goat again.
 
The reason not to use BIO for most people that dont have new tanks, or cleaned tanks and new lines is that yes the filter will filter crud, but it will still affect the opacity of the fuel, make it cloudy and that will cause the eye of the optical sensor miss some timing counts.

So, where I think 1 gallon of B100 to a full tank of fuel would be OK, less than 5%, going anymore would cause issues until all the crud in your tank and lines is gone.
 
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