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Power Steering Pump bolts

Rodd

Recruit
Messages
1,186
Likes
169
Location
Antelope, CA
Thread starter #21
I got it done. I got a combination of washers to equal the 4.5 mm that I needed and used bolts from the back side. This was a 3 hand job to make it easier so I had my son help me. The only way I could get this to work was put both bolt with the washers in the mounting bracket. I then got the upper bolt that is closest to the fender threaded on a few turns then the lower one closest the engine. I tried doing it opposite but even with extra hands I couldn't get the bolt started. The outer bolt was easy with a closed end 17mm. The inside one I needed to use a socket with a hinge adapter and a 3" extension. I will check them in a week to make sure they aren't coming loose.
 

Rodd

Recruit
Messages
1,186
Likes
169
Location
Antelope, CA
Thread starter #22
One of the bolts broke again. I used grade 8. So first the studs snapped. I then replace with grade 8 bolts and now one of the 2 snapped after about a month. It was a new pump and high pressure line installed along with the new bolts. Any thoughts what could be causing them to snap?
 

schiker

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,404
Likes
496
Location
Pendleton, SC
#26
How does the power steering pump relieve pressure? I think its a vane pump (which will sorta self-relieve, as in not a strict positive displacement pump I think? ) but I imagine its something surging in the hydraulic circuit fluctuating the load on the pump. Like a pressure bypass is sticking and loading the pump harder than usual periodically and maybe fatiguing the bolts then snapping them? Does this truck have the valve that reduces the steering assist with speed? Do you feel anything funny in turns like a slight slip in the steering effort? Any oversize tires or bind in the steering linkages that could load the pump? Anything slightly abnormal in steering or brakes?

What fluid are you using for power steering fluid? I don't think its too finicky but I do like to use actual power steering fluid not transmission or other hydraulic fluid. Could yours be contaminated with some pieces of metal or other causing problems? Did you flush the old out?

Going to be hard to check that theory. Maybe watch the pump and Serp. belt as you turn lock to lock, bump against the locks and pump brakes to see if you see any weird loading on the pump, belt, or hoses. Try at just off idle to keep full power on pump so it is most pronounced. Note I can bog down the engine at times braking and turning sometimes.
 

NVW

Well-Known Member
Messages
8,707
Likes
1,328
Location
Castor, AB.
#27
Grade 8 bolts tend to snap where a grade 5 has some forgiveness. On my JD tractor I had 3/4" bolts snap off the drawbar when hauling bales. I thought grade 8 bolts would be the ticket. They lasted a couple days and snapped. Grade 5's have lasted a few years.
 

schiker

Well-Known Member
Messages
2,404
Likes
496
Location
Pendleton, SC
#29
Might want to try OEM bolts or grade 5 since you don’t seem to be having problems with crank pulley or idler etc.

Has the belt shown any accelerated wear? On my 97 once the idler/tensioner is fully travelled it doesn’t absorb much force as it’s straight up and down and the torque isn’t much on the spring.
 

MrMarty51

Well-Known Member
Messages
1,324
Likes
1,241
Location
Miles City, Montana
#30
If all ius correct with the belt and the pump, the factory bolts should last indefinitely, almost.
On the truck 427 engine gas rigs there is an adjuster bracket under the left exhaust manifold, the double ended stud looking bolt on thiose would occasionally bust. remove bracket, replace bolt with new oring, reassemble and good for another 100,000 miles or maybe more, or less. LOL
 
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