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FUEL FILTER/WATER SEPERATOR QUESTIONS

MrMarty51

Well-Known Member
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Thread starter #21
Thats some pretty good splainin You did there Will.
Next time I go out to the Cenex I`ll ask them about the B fuel. See if they know.
I did start adding some two stroke oil to the mix, along with the Stanadyne performance formula that I have already been using. figure a little top end and IP lube should not hurt too much. LOL
 

Will L.

Well-Known Member
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Boulder City Nv
#23
The number after the B indicates percentage of bio as explained to me by a fuel distributor from Farm Services that fills my on farm storage.
Yeah, that’s the normal way it’s done, but there isn’t a legal requirement that it is showed that way. So there are some areas that had bad rap for bio and they would run 10% yet advertise “B-1” and call it a brand name. In Cali it was the other way- they would advertise “B45” but it was between 4% & 5% bio.
No legal description has been mandated yet, last I heard of 2 years ago anyways.
 

MrMarty51

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Thread starter #25
Actually I haven't seen the B designation for some years now. Just about all have a label that says 5%-20% Bio.
Like when there is a sticker on the pump that says 10% ethanol.
I`ll check it out today and report back.
I guess I never before had concerns about there being bio in the fuel, not much a person can do about it anyway if they are all doing it.
I have been fueling when the tank gets near the 1/4 mark, that is combined in town and hiway miles, been getting 12 to the gallon. That is with letting the engine warm up for about 15 to 20 minutes before moving the truck.
Today I`m going to fuel when I get back from church, that`ll be one run with mostly all hiway miles, see what it is getting for this short run of 60 miles.
 

WarWagon

Well it hits on 7 of 8...
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AZ
#27
Like when there is a sticker on the pump that says 10% ethanol.
I`ll check it out today and report back.
I guess I never before had concerns about there being bio in the fuel, not much a person can do about it anyway if they are all doing it.
I have been fueling when the tank gets near the 1/4 mark, that is combined in town and hiway miles, been getting 12 to the gallon. That is with letting the engine warm up for about 15 to 20 minutes before moving the truck.
Today I`m going to fuel when I get back from church, that`ll be one run with mostly all hiway miles, see what it is getting for this short run of 60 miles.
Actually there IS something you can do about it! And that be making sure all parts you use are Biodiesel compatible or rated. Avoid yellow metals and other biodiesel incompatible parts. Specifically Lift pumps: the OEM one isn't up for biodiesel as it eats the valves and neither is the aftermarket replacements for our 6.x rigs. Hoses that are not rated for Biodiesel get softened and can kink shut. leak around the clamps, or split open. The lining in our 25+ year old fuel tanks comes off with biodiesel use. Any lift pump that "menthol" will void the warranty on is krap with today's fuels. Again you or the commercial Biodiesel makers are NOT getting all the Meth out of the Biodiesel. This is the #1 reason I have a lift pump graveyard after running B99.

Frankly the industry isn't keeping up with Biodiesel use in pump diesel. Hoses and lift pumps are especially troublesome with a special mention of Transferflow (aux fuel tank manufacturer) that have their heads stuck in the sand over their tanks vulnerability to Biodiesel and especially bugs in diesel. (Bring this up with their ignorant reps I dare you.) Their top competitor is using a "plastic" tank that won't get corroded by biodiesel and frankly so are the OEM's using plastic fuel tanks. Rinse a bug problem out of a plastic tank where you replace the metal tank that's lost it's aluminized (or whatever) coating and has corrosion pitting.

Government fleet Cummins engines at one point are rated up to 20% bio over the off the street up to 5% bio. Why? What makes them different? An additional Water Separator on the Gov't B20 rated rigs. Additional Water Separation and better than OEM krap all in one filter systems are becoming critical with the current Hygroscopic Biodiesel on the market today.

One other thing about adding lube to fuel that already has Bio in it: Why? At a certain point any lube added doesn't do any good. Add risk of damage to modern injection systems our primitive systems are not affected by...

At the end of the day you really don't have a choice about B blended fuel. All you can do is make an informed decision about parts that make your rig compatible with what's being sold today. Even in warranty fuel quality is on you to take back to the fuel supplier: KEEP YOUR RECEIPT FOR EVERY FUEL PURCHASE!!!
 

Will L.

Well-Known Member
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Boulder City Nv
#28
Well, yes and no on the government rated truck. Yes I added water separator makes a big difference. That is one of the main reasons fuel suppliers can make or break in different areas of the country, it’s how well they can deal with the humidity in their tanks local stations. That’s on reason fuel stations are more profitable and dry climate areas. But as for the government rating, they take a 1 ton pick up truck and Call it a 5/4 ton truck meaning you can magically carry an extra 250 pounds with absolutely no changes to it. The difference is the lower rating when in the civilian market for legal purposes. I think there’s some of that nonsense going on there.
 

Jaryd

Love my 6.5
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Location
Hodges, SC
#29
Like when there is a sticker on the pump that says 10% ethanol.
I`ll check it out today and report back.
I guess I never before had concerns about there being bio in the fuel, not much a person can do about it anyway if they are all doing it.
I have been fueling when the tank gets near the 1/4 mark, that is combined in town and hiway miles, been getting 12 to the gallon. That is with letting the engine warm up for about 15 to 20 minutes before moving the truck.
Today I`m going to fuel when I get back from church, that`ll be one run with mostly all hiway miles, see what it is getting for this short run of 60 miles.
Ever since I installed the high idle kit (I think you bought the same kit) it cut the warmup time in half or less. You will enjoy using it especially in your WAY COLDER climate than we have in South Carolina. It don’t take but just a few minutes and there’s some good heat coming out of the vents. It was 26* this morning when I crunk the truck up.
 

MrMarty51

Well-Known Member
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Location
Miles City, Montana
Thread starter #30
Ever since I installed the high idle kit (I think you bought the same kit) it cut the warmup time in half or less. You will enjoy using it especially in your WAY COLDER climate than we have in South Carolina. It don’t take but just a few minutes and there’s some good heat coming out of the vents. It was 26* this morning when I crunk the truck up.
It sure does shorten the warmup time. Got it installed last week, now with temps in the teens, in five to ten minute warmup, the truck is putting out warm air from the heater. I do plug it in though, have been for a month now, before high idle option, after fifteen to twenty minutes of warm up, it would still take several blocks of driving to get warmth from the heater.

I will be looking at different hose types when I install the water separator/fuel filter, being sure to change out everything I can other than what is under the intake manifold. I`ll wait on that as I just replaced those hoses with diesel rated units. I do not know what types of hose the PO used at the pump and filter so those will get pulled and replaced.
Not good news about what bio fuel does to our rigs but, good to know so that we can take preventive steps.
 
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