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DIY lux radio/amp upgrade

Discussion in 'Do It Yourself Articles - How To's & Product Revie' started by stacks04, May 13, 2008.

  1. stacks04

    stacks04 McLovin

    3,579
    0
    May 9, 2008
    terryville ct
    this is from elsewhere on the web. thanks ben (duratothemax) for the write up. and all the leg work.



    Hi everyone! Brace yourself...Lemme take a deep breath before I explain these instructions …

    I have been getting emails left and right for my instructions on installing the Cadillac Escalade OEM Touch-screen Navigation unit (otherwise called a ‘TNR’) Well here is the whole deal. Yup, I certainly must have a lot of time on my hands because I wrote/typed up the entire thing myself! I just love learning about this stuff and explaining it so maybe I got a bit carried away. Sit back and get ready for some reading and lots of info!!!

    FAQ's:
    -Will my steering wheel controls work as they did before? YES
    -Will XM radio work as before with no programming/activation needed? YES
    -Will OnStar still work as before? YES
    -Will the RSE/factory DVD player work as before? YES
    -Will the RSA (rear seat audio) controls work as before? YES
    -Can I add the 6-disc Escalade/Denali CD changer to both LUX and NON-Lux nav units? YES
    -Can I reprogram non-lux nav units to lux and vice versa? YES, contact DP member MachoMachoDan for information
    -Does the Nav unit use the OnStar antenna? NO, it uses a separate antenna as stated



    First of all, everything in this guide assumes you are doing the Bose LUXURY conversion as well (to get much better sound quality). In short, GM makes two different Bose speaker systems for the GMT-800 series vehicles: The Bose “Premium” (non-lux) and the Bose “Luxury” (lux). The non-lux system is what you get with an SLT/LT Silverado/Sierra/Suburban/Yukon/YukonXL/Tahoe. It utilizes a mid-range speaker in each door, a tweeter in each A-pillar (the tweeters are wired in parallel with the front door speakers, and they are given a capacitor to act as a high pass cross-over) and a 6.5” dual voice-coil subwoofer mounted in the center console. If your door speakers say “Bose” on them, you have this system. SUV’s also have a speaker in each D-pillar as well (these mid-high range d-pillar speakers are wired in parallel with the rear door speakers on the NON-lux systems and on the LUX systems, they are wired into a separate channel on the amplifier, so they can reiceive different signals than the rear door speakers). Now, Denali’s and Escalade’s have the Bose “Luxury”, or [RPO code] “Y91” Bose speaker system. The great part is, that the speakers themselves and the subwoofer are IDENTICAL to the non-lux system. Both non-lux and lux Bose speakers are referred to as [RPO code] UQ7 on the build sheet and in your glovebox sticker. The ONLY lux/non-lux difference is the AMPLIFIER. And what a difference it is! The Luxury amplifier is of MUCH higher quality and also has more RMS wattage output. It deals with sound completely differently than the non-lux amp and processes it in a much cleaner fashion, for MUCH MUCH better sound quality. It also devotes much more power to the subwoofer, so with a Lux system, the sub is actually woken up and makes itself heard. Now remember, this is still the same 6.5” sub, so it wont blow out windows, but I bet it will sound much richer and deeper than you ever thought a 6.5” sub could sound! The Lux amp is also fully computerized and utilizes an onboard DSP (Digital Signal Processor, or Digital Sound Processor; ive heard a DSP be called both names) to tweak the sound and also provide different soundfield/reverberation/environment settings, such as “Driver”, “Spacious”, “Passenger”, and “Rear”…it is a “Smart” amp. The lux amp also is fully integrated with the vehicle’s Class II data-bus, so functions such as muting and control of the amp are all done via the BCM (body control module…basically the cars main computer) and Class II data. The non-lux amp is jokingly called the “Dumb amp” because it lacks any computer or control of the sound. The only thing it has is a simple passive crossover to prevent high range signals from going to the sub. So basically, that’s the difference between, for example, an Escalade Bose system and a Tahoe Bose system…a 600 dollar amp versus a 170 dollar amp. We’ll talk about the more specific differences between the two amps a little later on.

    Now for a shopping list, part numbers, etc…

    Nav part numbers:

    Newest revision LUX TNR-------15800001
    Second Revision LUX TNR-------15230099
    First Revision LUX TNR---------10377531

    Newest revision non-lux TNR-----15800000
    second Revision non-lux TNR---10379287
    First Revision non-lux TNR-------10377287
    Alt. Revision non-lux TNR---------15120706

    Newest Revision LUX INR--------15204335
    First Revision LUX INR------------15204334
    Newest Revision non-lux INR----15108241

    NON-BOSE TNR (trucks with UQ3/UQ5 non-Bose audio)-----15811289

    Lux Amplifier numbers: (all are identical in function, they just have different part numbers)


    2003-early 2004 Escalade amp--15199992
    2005 Escalade amp-----------------15114445
    2003-2005 Denali amp-------------15114454
    2003 Hummer H2 amp-------------xxxxx044 (I forget the first numbers)
    Early 2004 Hummer H2 amp-----15191601
    (unknown application) amp-------15112662
    (unknown application) amp-------15199884
    I have this amp on my list as a "bad amp" but Im not sure why-----------15054675
    it is confirmed as working with the nav unit; its the amp im running in my truck
    GPS antenna:


    First revision antenna--------------15207447
    Latest revision antenna------------15135178

    “AudioPilot” Noise Compensation Microphone:


    Noise compensation mic----------25705367
    Wiring connector on mic----------12052833
    Mating connector for mic----------12085481


    Denali/Escalade style CD changer and assoc. parts


    6-disc slot load CD changer------15055250
    Alternate part # CD changer------15122617
    Alternate part # CD changer------15207055
    CD changer wiring harness-------15312903

    Where to buy different parts…

    The nav unit you can get anywhere. I got mine on ebay for 1000 dollars including the separate external GPS antenna. If you want to save a lot of money, you could go for the “INR” (Integrated Navigation Radio…non-touchscreen). These can be had for about 600 dollars or less. If you don’t want to go thru the hassle of doing the luxury sound upgrade, you can also keep your stock non-lux Bose amplifier and get a different part number nav unit that is compatible with that. The two are NOT interchangeable!! They look identical, but are different inside.
    The amp I highly recommend buying on ebay. Two reasons... the Lux
    amps, when new, need to get an initial programming with a Tech II
    diagnostics/program tool. (BTW, the amplifiers, both lux and Premium,
    are located in the center console underneath the main storage bin)
    This initial programming tells the amp what model/size vehicle its in
    so it can adjust the DSP (digital signal/sound processor) to make the
    sound correct for the size cabin its in. For example, an Escalade EXT
    cabin is much smaller than an Escalade ESV cabin, so the amp needs to
    be adjusted for best sound. This programmig can be tricky if the
    vehicle that the amp is being programmed into is not a factory LUX
    vehicle. Understand? Like the amp will say to itself "hey...somebody
    is trying to program me into a Silverado...im not meant to go into a
    Silverado...something is wrong here..." For this reason, people
    sometimes have difficulty in programming the amps. H2 lux amps are
    particularly picky, no one knows why. After reprogramming they just
    tend to randomly go dead after a little while. Denali and Escalade
    amps seem to be OK but then theres the problem of convincing your
    dealer to actually program and do something thats not in his magic
    instruction manual from GM. I have been close frineds with my dealer
    forever, so for me it wasnt a big deal to convince them "yes it will
    work even though GM says it wont". However, other people have had
    trouble convincing their dealers to perform the programming. BUT if
    you buy an amp used on ebay for example, it has already been
    initialized and programmed so its plug and play (besides rewiring the
    connectors...). So my advice is to buy the amp on ebay. Much much
    cheaper and you wont have to deal with the [potential] hassle of
    porgramming it. As for warentee, beleive it or not, GM parts direct
    really has no warentee i dont think. So you are no better off than if
    you bought it on ebay.

    OK...now for the big "book" of info that I have written for people!!
    First ill just describe how the lux amp actually works and why it is
    much better than the "Premium" amp. You dont HAVE to read it, but just
    in case you are curious...and it kinda helps with the install to have
    an understanding of what you are actually doing (versus just following
    the instructions).

    Here is exactly how the non-lux and lux amps differ and why the LUX amp sounds better than the premium amp. Sorry for my long
    winded explanation...i sort of got carried away (this is the
    explanation I sent to another guy that was interested in the lux amp
    conversion too...except he did only the lux amp...no TNR)!!!
    So normally in an aftermarket amp/speaker system, you have a head
    unit (the radio), an amp, and speakers. The head unit sends a "low
    level" signal to the amp. This low level signal varies in output
    "slightly" as the volume knob is turned up or down. The amp takes this
    signal and greatly amplifies it and sends the high-power, high level
    signal to the speakers. When you turn up the volume knob, the "low
    level" signal gets slightly more powerful and the amp then amplifies
    this and you hear it as "louder sound". Follow me? If I get too
    confusing at any point, just PM me or email me!! The amp also has an "amp turn
    on" wire which is basically a power wire from the head unit so when
    the head unit turns on, it tells the amp to turn on. Kinda like a
    relay. The Bose "Premium" system works on this exact same principal.
    We kinda refer to the Bose Premium amp/system as the "dumb amp",
    because thats basically what it is. It sits there just like a fool and
    just "makes louder" whatever is thrown at it. It does not know what it
    is attached to and has no interaction with the car at all (you could
    hook it up to a telephone for all it cares). This is probably where it
    loses quality. The wires from the head unit probably pick up a lot of
    interference because GM doesnt think and they just bundle the thin
    wires right along side electrical wires etc... The stronger the audio
    signal passing thru the wires, the more suseptable the signal is too
    interference. So, technically, the more you increase the volume, the
    more interference the wires pick up. Also, you have to think about
    that the "dumb" amp's "volume" (called 'gain') is always cranked to
    the MAX, so when you vary the "output" from the radio, you can get a
    full volume range from quiet to really loud. If the Dumb Amp's gain
    was not turned up all the way, than the system would not go loud even
    if you turned up the radio all the way. Follow me? Its like if you
    have a water hose hooked up to a faucet and on the end of the hose you
    have a variable water valve. Think of the faucet's knob as the volume
    knob on the radio. And think of that valve on the end of the hose as
    the "gain" control on the dumb amp. Now, if you only opened up the
    valve on the end of the hose a little bit, not a lot of water will
    come out no matter how wide open you turn the faucet's knob. SO... the
    valve at the end of the hose has to be wide open all the time in order
    for you to be able to control it (the volume/water flow) at the
    faucet's (radio's) knob. This is a disadvantage because on cheaper
    quality amplifiers (which the 'dumb amp' is), when the gain is cranked
    up all the way, you introduce lots of distortion and quality loss even
    tho the volume is not up all the way. That is why the 'dumb amp' does
    not sound all that great (and like a Bose system should!!!

    NOW... The lux amp works completely differently.
    It is a "smart amp" in that is has a full on-board computer and DSP
    (digital signal/sound processor). It is fully integrated with the
    vehicle in that it communicates with everything in the vehicle over
    the Class II data bus. (like a computer LAN) Now.. the head unit in
    "lux" vehicles sends a VERY low level constant signal to the amp that
    does NOT change. EVen when you turn the volume and play with the
    fader/balance. The head unit does NOTHING to audio. It does not apply
    bass or treble changes, it doesnt fade/balance it, nothing!! It just
    sends a constant low level left and right (it doesnt send rear
    signals) audio signal to the amp. The amp receives this and the amp's
    DSP "optimizes" the sound to do whatever Bose does to it etc.. AND the
    amp constantly talks to the head unit over the Class II data bus to
    receive volume, fader, balance, bass, treble and mid-range
    information. So, when you turn the volume knob up in a lux vehicle,
    you are not simply increasing the output of the low-level signal from
    the head unit. You are sending a signal directly to the LUX amp that
    says "hey turn up the volume a bit". And then the amp just increases
    the output level to the speakers. Same thing with the fader, because
    remember the head unit does not output separate "rear" channels. The
    amp is smart enough to "make up" a rear channel (for the rear
    speakers) based on the fader setting that the radio is sending it over
    the Class II network. its really pretty cool how it all works! Same
    thing with Bass and treble too. You press some buttons on the radio to
    increase the bass and the radio says to the amp "hey, adjust your EQ
    for some more bass". Running the LUX amp this way keeps the audio
    signals coming from the radio at a constant low level so not a lot of
    interference can come in from power wires running along side... Also,
    think back to my "water faucet/hose" analogy. Its like instead of
    keeping the end valve wide open and controlling flow with the faucet's
    knob, you are doing the opposite. You are keeping the audio signal low
    and constant while just controlling actual volume of the music with
    the "gain" control on the LUX amp. ANDDD thats why the LUX amp sounds
    50 times better than the Premium, or DUMB amp!! Another nice thing
    about the Lux amp is that it does not need an "amp turn on" wire or
    anything because that is all done with Class II data. And you can
    program a lux amp for which vehicle it is in and it will alter the
    sound processing sequences to make the sound perfect for the size
    cabin it is in! (for example, it is going to have to be programmed
    differently if it is in a huge cabin Escalade ESV versus a smaller
    extended cab Sierra Denali (thats the only truck that gets a lux amp
    from the factory...if you dont count the Escalade EXT as a truck)
    Sorry again for the lonnngggg description, but now you're an
    expert in the verry confusing field of Bose/GM speaker and
    entertainment systems!!! And now you can wire in a lux amp, make your
    truck sound like a *REAL* Bose system, and show your dealer something
    that he would have thought was impossible!! Explain to him how the lux
    amp works and how its different from the dumb amps and ill bet he'll
    be scratching his head after the second sentence!

    OK now onto the actual installation instructions...

    I attached a zipped folder of some pictures and all of the
    documents. Some pictures are mine, other pics (the better ones! Haha) are courtesy of DP member Diesel Breath. Many thanks Diesel Breath! Some documents you may not need, like the
    Theftlock clear procedure (if the Nav you are buying is brand new)
    and the amp setup procedure (because the amps on ebay are used
    and wont have to be programmed...its actually best NOT to program the
    amp because for some odd reason, the amps can go dead after
    programming). The ONLY situation where you should program an amp is if it is unprogrammed. You will know if it is unprogrammed because audio will only come from the RIGHT FRONT speaker. Otherwise, leave the amp alone!! (as I described before) There are two different docs that describe the same
    rewiring procedure... Some people that I have helped find the first
    doc more helpful...some find the second doc more helpful. Its just preference as to which doc you use. The first document is credited to the mastermind behind this whole install, an incredibly smart Chevy Avalanche Fan Club of North America member named Sperry. He is the fellow that figured out this whole install/conversion from SCRATCH back in January of 2004. This was back when the navigation units were quite rare and NO ONE knew how they or the Lux amps worked. He figured it all out and because of him, we are all happily and easily converting our trucks today.

    (first disconnect the battery and remove the old 6-disc
    radio before starting the amp install)

    Basically you need to take the
    console apart by removing the lid, inner storage bucket (don’t forget the screws on the bottom under the little rubber mat) and cupholders. Also take the "rear end" off so you can see the amp and
    the amp connectors. Its just a lot of screws and thats it! Once you
    get everything apart, unplug the amp and unscrew the two rear bolts. (all the hex-head bolts for the radio and amp are 9/32”)
    Then, this is the only tricky part... Look carefully at the pictures I
    took of mine... The front two amp bolts are under the metal
    plate...unless you have a perfect little 9/32” wrench or soemthing that can sneak
    in and unscrew those bolts, you will need to drill two 1/2" holes in
    the metal plate right above the bolts. Once you drill these holes, you can fit a nutdriver
    or something thru and unbolt the amp. Pull the amp out towards the
    rear. You will have to bend a sheet metal bracket a bit to squeeze the
    amp out. Now you can work on the connectors. I did the amp C2
    connector (the smaller one with 8 pins) first. First use a small
    screwdriver to pry off the plastic retaining clips (on both rows of
    pins). Then look closely at the connector and you will see how the
    pins are held in place. There is like a little plastic tab that snaps
    and locks them in. This next part can get frustrating, but be patient!! Use a paper clip, safety pin or something small to insert into the holes on the connector. When you look at it ull understand. Push the wire into the connector to relieve pressure on the locking tab and then press the
    little tab out of the way and then carefully pull the pin and wire
    out. Dont pull hard!!! The pins should come out easilly. Once all the
    pins that need to be moved are out, check the sheet for where they go,
    and push them into their new places. They will kind of click into
    place and then once you are all done, put the retaining clips back on
    the connectors. Then do the larger C1 connector. Work on one row at a
    time because I think there are some color duplicates between rows.
    These smaller pins are trickier to release. Remove the retaining
    clips. Then insert the paper clip or, even better, a small
    screwdriver, into the OUTER rows of holes to release the pins. (the
    holes that are closest to the edge of the connector) Once you have
    confirmed the pins are correct, you have to take the "drain wire" that
    you removed from the C2 connector and put it into the C1 connecctor
    (as shown in the charts). You are going to need to cut off the large
    pin because it wont fit into the smaller 24 pin connector. Since there
    are about 6 wires/pins that you completely cut off because they are
    not needed (the ones from the RSA and the amp turn on wire and the
    radio mute wire) with the lux amp, use one of those pins and splice it
    onto the end of the drain wire (i used a crimp butt-splice). Now you
    can stick the drain wire into its new position in the 24 pin C1
    connector! Dont throw away any of the other wires that you cut off
    either... One IMPORTANT wire that the amp needs that was not there
    previously is of course the Class II data wire (becuase the amp is
    totally interactive with the head unit and BCM)!! You can use a
    simple
    plastic wire tap (also called a ScotchLoc connector) and tap into the
    Class II wire that goes to the RSA (rear seat audio...the audio
    controls for the back passengers). It is the easiest Class II source
    to tap into just because it is closest to the amp; theoretically you
    could use any Class II wire in the truck. It is a light blue wire that
    goes into the RSA connector. You may also want to make a second tap on this light blue Class II wire if you intend to add a CD changer as well…cause the CDX needs Class II data too. First get some extra 18 or 20 gauge wire
    (about a foot or so). Then crimp on one of those extra pins to the end
    of the wire. Put the pin into the correct position in the amp C1
    connector (position B10). Then, using the plastic wire tap/Scotchloc
    connector, take the other end of that wire and tap into the LIGHT BLUE
    wire of the RSA. Dont cut the wire going to the RSA though!! You are
    basically just making a little 3 way splitter, so Class II data can
    get to the RSA and to the amp. Now put the TNR in and plug it in normally.
    Screw it in but dont put the instrument panel bezel back on. Now you
    need to mount the GPS antenna. Most people just kind of stuff it as
    far towards the front of the vehicle as possible. However, I just
    wanted to be sure it was not going to move around so I bolted it in
    the factory position. (see pic). You will have to take the whole dash
    top off for this. Its really not as complicated as it seems. First
    unscrew all the screws that you can see that hold it on. Then, on both
    sides of the truck, there are screws under the fuse panel covers.
    Then, use a screwdriver to pry out the two passenger side vents. There is also a screw behind each vent holding the dash cover on. Kinda
    up inside the vents there are two white plastic buttons (one on each
    side or the passenger SRS airbag inflator module). Press these two buttons and this releases the passenger side
    grab handle. Once you have all screws out, pull off the two A-pillar
    covers. Be careful not to pull too hard cause the Bose tweeters have
    pretty short cables and dont give you much slack to reach in there and
    unplug them. Unplug them and remove the A-pillar covers. Then work the
    dash top cover off (kinda slide it towards you then up and out). Its a little tricky. ONE NOTE OF CAUTION... Be
    careful of the ambient light sensor (the little black bulb sticking up
    on the front center of the dash top), the cord is really short and
    when I pulled off my cover, I broke the stupid thing!! Luckilly its
    only like a 25$ part. Bolt the GPS antenna in using an existing bolt under the dash. (see picture for mounting location) Now you will have to
    wire up a VSS (vehicle speed sensor) wire for the Nav. This wire
    basically helps out the nav if it loses the GPS signal for a little
    bit. (like if you go in a tunnel) With speed info from the car, it can
    still make a good estimation of where you are going until it regains the GPS
    signal.

    ***NOTE*** You MAY or MAY NOT have to do this step (wire the VSS wire).
    For 2005, im 99% sure all of the GMT-800 vehicles already have the
    VSS wire in place as standard. My '05 Duramax LT Crew Cab already had
    it… If your truck is a 2005 there is no
    reason it shouldnt have it. 2004.5 MAY or may not have it. 2003 and
    early 2004 definetly wont have it; only the Escalades and Denali's had
    it back then because the Nav was an option that was exclusive to
    those two vehicles... You can check for it
    by looking at the radio C2 connector (the smaller one). Check if there
    is a DARK GREEN wire going into pin "E". If its there, the VSS wire is
    already in place and you dont have to worry about wiring it.
    Alternatively, you can temporarrily plug in the TNR and start driving
    forward...if the "destination programming screen/section" gets grayed
    out as you go above 10 mph or so, then the VSS wire is working
    properly.***

    VSS WIRING INSTRUCTIONS IF YOU DON’T ALREADY HAVE THE WIRE:

    You will have to remove the instrument cluster. Unbolt the 4
    bolts that hold it in and pull it forward and unplug it. Find the wire
    that goes into the A4 pin of the gauges connector. It will be a green
    with white stripe wire. This is the VSS wire. Use a plastic wire
    tap/Scotchloc connector and tap into this wire. Run the wire and make
    sure it is long enough to reach the "radio C2" connector (the smaller
    radio connector). Now take another of those "unused" pins that you cut
    off of the amp harness. Splice it onto the end of the "new" VSS wire.
    Then, pry off the pin retaining clip from the radio C2 connector. Then
    push the pin into the "E" position. (see diagrams for which position
    is E...its also in tiny tiny letters on the plastic connector) Snap
    the retaining clip back on.

    Now You can plug in the TNR. Dont screw it
    in yet in case something doesnt work. Plug the amp in at this time
    too. dont mount it yet either... Now reconnect the battery. Put the
    key in and you should hear [door]
    chimes!!! If you don’t hear chimes, you probably have a bad Class II data connection (check the wire you spliced).Start the truck. The new radio will take a second to
    initialize as it learns your trucks VIN so it can become "married" to
    your VIN incase someone steals the radio (it will now only work with
    your VIN). IF you bought a USED radio, a "theftlock engaged" screen
    will come up. You can temporarrily bypass this for testing purposes by
    turning off the truck, then put the key in the ACC position, and pull the
    radio fuse for 5 seconds (with the key
    still in ACC). Then put the fuse back in and the radio will have full
    functionality until you
    turn the key off or try to start the truck. If you do either of those,
    the radio will lock up again. Alternatively you can simply unplug the large 24-pin radio connector for 5 seconds instead of pulling the fuse. Now that the Theftlock is "bypassed,
    fire up the radio and test out that LUXURY sound!!! I
    personally find it sounds best with the bass 1 notch below maximum,
    treble 1 notch below maximum, and the mid-range right at the middle.
    (I know on a "normal" stereo system this sounds like a dumb EQ
    setting, but on Bose equipment, its what makes it sound NORMAL!! The
    amp's internal EQ does wierd things and in order for it to sound good,
    you have to crank the bass and crank the treble and leave the mid
    range at the default setting). You will find all the audio settings by
    pressing the "Audio (musical note)" button. Along the bottom of the
    screen are the various DSP modes. Cycle thru them (like SPACIOUS,
    DRIVER, REAR, PASSENGER) to find out what sounds best to you. I personally like
    "SPACIOUS" the best. Also, press the "page down (arrow)" button and
    make sure the auto-volume (AudioPilot) is set to OFF if you did not install the microphone (IMO its not worth it…it’s a waste of money). Lastly, check
    out to make sure all the speakers are working correctly and everything
    sounds good. If you dont say "WOW!!" the first time you hear it, then
    something must have gone wrong!! It is just that big of an improvment
    over the "Premium" system.

    Alright still with me??? Here is the CDX install instructions:

    This part is pretty simple if you follow the wiring diagrams and CDX wiring chart that is included. First of all make sure you have the correct CDX. A 2001-2002 CDX will NOT work!! Back then before the GMT-800’s went to a full Class II data bus, the radios and climate control spoke over the slow old E&C data bus (Entertainment & Comfort). This was much too slow a data rate for the increasing amount of data that traveled between the radios and BCM’s, so in 2003 everything in the whole vehicle switched to the Class II data bus. This was a good move because in 2002 and before, it was such a mish-mosh of data busses that it was a mess. E&C controlled the radios, CDX’s and climate control. UART controlled the SRS Airbag systems, Class II controlled main BCM functions such as locks, windows, and seats, and finally the CAN bus (Controller Area Network, very similar in operation and function to a home Personal Computer LAN) controlled ECM/PCM/TCM (engine control/powertrain control/tranny control) communication. Now its all Class II and a little bit of CAN for the PCM/TCM. Back to the CDX though…you need a 2003 or later CDX that speaks on the Class II data bus. The only visual difference between the two is that the 2002 and older units had plastic slides on the sides for mounting. The 2003 and up units have metal tabs, or “ears” sticking out of the sides. If you bought one and are unsure if it’s the right one, send me a picture and ill help you out. DON’T try plugging it in until you’re sure…I don’t know if the conflicting data-busses could damage something. Now remove the black plastic console bezel that holds the two cig lighters/12 volt outlets. It just pulls out. Give it a good yank. Look in there and you will see a perfect space for the CDX…except a big lump with a hole in it is in the way. Simply cut it out. I Dremmel’d it and finished it off with a mini-hack saw and finally, just grabbed it with a big pair of Channel-locks and broke it out. Just be careful cause there are some wires RIGHT behind it. Snake the CDX harness from the radio area down to the console. Then plug in the CDX and bolt it in place with some self tapping screws. To fit the plastic bezel around it, I cranked up the table saw blade as high as it would go and just cut off the “back” of the pocket on the bezel. Don’t cut if off completely. Leave about 3/16 of an inch to fit flush against the CDX’s own bezel. You’ll figure it out once you start. Keep trimming it back until it fits perfectly. Now just follow the wiring diagram in the picture to splice in the wires at the correct places on the two radio connectors. I soldered them, but you can use ScotchLoc connectors also. If you DON’T have XM, there wont be any audio wires on the radio C2 connector to splice into. In that case, just remove the pins from the 9-pin flat CDX harness plug and insert the pins into the appropriate places on the radio C2 connector. The pins are the same size on both connectors so they will plug right in. If you have XM, splice the wires in as normal.

    Now put everything back together and enjoy! whew!!! All done!
    Email me back with any questions comments or suggestions, (like if you found an easier way to do a step) and as I said before, ill be happy
    to help out with any problems you may run into!! Good luck and go have fun with this rewarding mod.

    ----Ben


    Here is the website that has all of the pictures and wiring charts, programming documents, instructions, etc...
    Many thanks to Andrew Fessler for hosting the pictures and putting them into a great website!!

    http://duramax.onlinedesk.net/navinstall/
     
  2. duratothemax

    duratothemax Recruit

    65
    0
    May 5, 2008
    I still cant freaking beleive I wrote all of that and people still PM me questions on "how do I....."
     
  3. stacks04

    stacks04 McLovin

    3,579
    0
    May 9, 2008
    terryville ct
    i'm guilty. :lol: but thanks.
     
  4. Diesel Dually

    Diesel Dually awaiting your return...signed... your friends

    506
    0
    May 3, 2008
    Mile High
    Shocking...:rolleyes:

    Still a great write-up, Ben...and thanks to Stacks for sourcing it for us.

    Now, if we only had pictures...;)
     
  5. stacks04

    stacks04 McLovin

    3,579
    0
    May 9, 2008
    terryville ct
    get to it ben:yikes::)
     
  6. MAX4X4

    MAX4X4 Recruit

    54
    0
    May 4, 2008
    CA
    That write-up helped me out ALOT!!!!! Pictures are at the link he provided at the bottom of that post.
     
  7. mojoe01

    mojoe01 Duramax Geek

    19
    0
    May 10, 2008
    Winter Garden, FL
    Ben, you could have written an encyclopedia on it and people will still ask the same questions over and over. At least you are pretty good natured about it.
     
  8. Cougar281

    Cougar281 Huh?

    207
    0
    May 3, 2008
    St Charles, MO
    Check out the link at the bottom of the post ;)
     
  9. MAX4X4

    MAX4X4 Recruit

    54
    0
    May 4, 2008
    CA
    I just said that...........:biggrin5:
     
  10. 2005duramax

    2005duramax New Member

    3
    0
    May 13, 2008
    Ben's Instructions

    I first got the idea from Ben's thread to install the Lux Amp and touchscreen NAV unit. After studying his post and the rest of the thread I bought the parts and installed everything. It took me about a day to put everything in. The most satisfying part was turning the NAV unit on for the first time and watching it work. Ben's hard work with this has gone a long way to helping me enjoy my 2005 duramax. Thanks again for your efforts - I for one really appreciate reading your posts.
     
  11. Diesel Dually

    Diesel Dually awaiting your return...signed... your friends

    506
    0
    May 3, 2008
    Mile High
    I know...but they should be embedded. :conehead:
     

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