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Thread: Max. Speed in 4wd?

  1. #1
    My first diesel! toddlnrd's Avatar
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    Default Max. Speed in 4wd?

    My Suburban has three separate 4 wheel drive settings. What is the max recommended speed in the 4wd auto setting? What about 4-Hi? (I realize that I do not want to use 4-Hi unless I am on lose gravel or snow, definitely not pavement.)

    We just had 6-inches of snow yesterday. The primary roads are clear but the secondary roads are not.

    Thanks,
    Todd
    1999 GMC Suburban 1500 4wd (325,000 miles) :"F" engine, Heath TurboMaster, Heath PMD relocator, new lift pump, removed vac pump, two Interstate batteries, transmission rebuilt @ 200,000 miles, 3" WarpSpeed DP and 2.5" X-over, 4" WarpSpeed Exhaust w/muffler, General Grabber AT2 (265/75/16), and stock computer.

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    I welcome everyone...not just Penguins! DEERE3594's Avatar
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    I have used 4H as fast as interstate speeds. 4L just for pulling out stuck stuff and doing tug-o-war. I dont have the auto setting on mine.
    -Justin
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    Registered User chrisk1500's Avatar
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    4 HI at any speed anywhere with questionable traction (rain, ice, snow).....but that's just me - without a rear locker this truck has no traction unless in 4 HI....
    07.5 LMM DMAX, 2500 HD, LT, PCV re-route, resonator delete, Edge EVO/RACE - Level 5, Colibert G2G hitch, Tekonsha PrimusIQ, Access Tonneau Cover, Bushwhacker Pocket flares, Scorpion Bedliner and rockers, levelled, 285 General AT2's, AFE 4" exhaust, PPE tierod sleeves --> coming soon: lift pump, Trans Go Jr.

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  4. #4

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    Auto 4 and 4 high are both all speed, I don't know about you, but if it were me I would rip out that auto 4x4, might be good for racing though.
    1991 Chevy Scottsdale 2500
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    My first diesel! toddlnrd's Avatar
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    just found the owners manual. 4wd auto is for mixed driving conditions (any speed), 4-hi is for severe conditions (any speed), of course 4-lo is for pulling stumps and Fords out of ditches.

    Todd
    1999 GMC Suburban 1500 4wd (325,000 miles) :"F" engine, Heath TurboMaster, Heath PMD relocator, new lift pump, removed vac pump, two Interstate batteries, transmission rebuilt @ 200,000 miles, 3" WarpSpeed DP and 2.5" X-over, 4" WarpSpeed Exhaust w/muffler, General Grabber AT2 (265/75/16), and stock computer.

  6. #6
    Recruit jmiller's Avatar
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    I've run 4x4 Hi at any speed, any conditions. Dry roads, +80 mph, etc. I put 100k on the toyota 4x4 system. One too many 4x4 hole shots and 4x4 power slides, broke both pinions after 180K. Retired after 250k.

    Lo generaly max's about 40mph or so.


    Generally, 4x4 shoud be used for off highway, or low traction situations.

    If your tire pressures are equal, Tire wear is even, you don't romp on it all the time; you should be fine.

    The 4x4 power slides are kind of cool though. especially in a 7000lb truck.
    John

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    EVIL GENIUS Michaeljp86's Avatar
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    Auto 4x4 will keep it in 2wd unless the wheel speed sensors shows your losing traction. It keeps the front diff locked so mpg goes down a little and just engages the transfer case if you loose traction.
    1992 GMC F 6.5L TD 2wd 4L80E 253,000 miles, manual torque converter lock up switch, rear air bags, 2.5" crossover, 3" down pipe, 4" straight piped, remove key while running mod.

    1979 IH 484 diesel Rebuilt engine in 2007, repainted in 2008

    1992 GMC jimmy 4.3L V6 4x4 4L60E, about 200,000 miles AMSOIL

    1992 Chevy 2500 2wd 6.5L TD 4L80E 230,000 miles cranked up IP, home made turbomaster with 15psi boost.

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    Registered User JeffsJeep04's Avatar
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    Yup, when it's mixed snow/dry road, I sometimes just leave it in 4x4. The auto position my last truck had could be a little inconsistent. By the time it locked in, it'd generally be too late. As long as you aren't turning, the bind on the driveline is very minimal, even on dry road unless your tires aren't inflated properly. If you have dry roads more then 1/4 mile or so, then go ahead and use 2x4 or auto. I don't miss that auto position one bit though, lots of jerking and such...I know when it's going to be slick and can just pop it in 4x4 before I need it and save a lot of fooling around.
    1999 GMC Sierra RCSB 4x4 4.8/5 speed
    1989 Jeep Wrangler...14 bolt, the rest is TBD

  9. #9
    Depends on the 6.5 Matt Bachand's Avatar
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    I dont' have auto, i have the real lever on the floor, but have drievn them. They stink, you take off, rear tires spin a little, then it slams in the front. Not good.

    4x4 use it if you have it, key is, BEFORE you need it.
    1997 Chevy 3500 4x4 Dual Wheel 6.5 TD 156k (D.S. Head rebuilt at 120k) A great truck that gets BETTER with age
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    EVIL GENIUS Michaeljp86's Avatar
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    My moms 04 yukon has auto 4wd and it works nice, its a nittle slow but works great. The 98 tahoe had it to and it was like matt said, you would spin and then it would lock up. The yukon works way better, I think its made for idiots who dont know how to drive. I drive my jimmy all over and never been stuck and rarely use 4wd. If you know how to drive you dont need auto but Im sure you guys know most people dont have a clue how to drive.
    1992 GMC F 6.5L TD 2wd 4L80E 253,000 miles, manual torque converter lock up switch, rear air bags, 2.5" crossover, 3" down pipe, 4" straight piped, remove key while running mod.

    1979 IH 484 diesel Rebuilt engine in 2007, repainted in 2008

    1992 GMC jimmy 4.3L V6 4x4 4L60E, about 200,000 miles AMSOIL

    1992 Chevy 2500 2wd 6.5L TD 4L80E 230,000 miles cranked up IP, home made turbomaster with 15psi boost.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IkajP4CAvpk

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    Registered User RayMich's Avatar
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    I have driven in 4-Hi at 70-75 with no adverse effect other than worse fuel economy.

    My truck doesn't have Auto-4WD.

    I had Auto-4WD in my '02 Trailblazer and I did NOT like it at all. The truck drives in 2WD until the wheel speed sensor senses that the rear wheels have lost traction and then you can feel the 4WD kick-in. It is not very smooth at all and you still pay the fuel economy penalty because the front differential is engaged all the time.

    As far as that is concerned, nothing can beat All Wheel Drive (AWD), where you have a center differential and all 4 wheels are pulling all the same time. I had AWD and G80 rear locker in my 1977 Suburban and my 1979 K-10 Chevy truck and I loved it. It is great when you find yourself on slick ice in the middle of a turn. You can't even feel the differentials biasing the power. Some people did not like the 2 mpg fuel economy penalty from running in 4WD all the time, but to me the added safety is worth it. I wish we could get AWD in our trucks.
    - Ray -



    2006 GMC 2500HD - SLE1, EC/SB, 4x4, (LBZ)

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    Figure out how to replace that leaky transfer case of yours with an unmodded NP203.
    1998 Chevy K3500 Dually Silverado extended cab, 4x4, Tangiers Orange (soon to be another color when I can find the money) w/grey interior, 6.5 TD ("F" code engine), A-Team Turbo, vacuum pump delete, NV4500 through G80 4.10 rear, ZOOM High Performance Clutch, Rancho RS9000 shocks, SSDiesel 4" stainless steel exhaust, approx. 270,000 miles 215/85R16

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    I don't think you should ever use auto. It is hard on the encoder motor & cuts their life by big percentage points because it is constaqntly shifting in & out of 4 wheel drive
    98 GMC Suburban 2500 6.5 4x4 235,000 mi, FS2500, new timing chain, gears, Fluidamper & remote PMD, braided stainless oil cooler lines

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    91 international 4700 low pro, spicer 6 speed, DTA 360 with 18' van box 500,000 miles plus.

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    LIVE FREE or DIE HARD Harqobispal's Avatar
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    I once accidentally drove to work, on the completely snow free , freeway, in 4wd. 75-80mph. Couldnt figure out why the truck was handling so wierd. When i pulled into the work parking lot, i could smell delco tranny fluid burning. I looked down, and the lever was in 4-hi. Of course i immediately shifted it out of 4 hi. Shut the truck off, and got out, to go into work, you could hear and smell the burning. The transfer case was cooking, very hot. This was on a K2500 with manual 4x4 lever. I just remember an old guy saying "Never drive in 4x4 on dry pavement". I think this is true even on the new trucks. Am i wrong in saying that the front wheels pull harder than the back ones? SO the whole time you are driving on dry pavement you are heating everything up?
    Harqobispal's Truck
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    Registered User JeffsJeep04's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harqobispal View Post
    ...Am i wrong in saying that the front wheels pull harder than the back ones? SO the whole time you are driving on dry pavement you are heating everything up?
    Yes. When in 4x4, you are connecting the front and rear axle directly, they both receive 100% power. No bias. When you make a turn, the front travels further then the rear, that's where the strain comes from.
    1999 GMC Sierra RCSB 4x4 4.8/5 speed
    1989 Jeep Wrangler...14 bolt, the rest is TBD

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