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Thread: To Flush or Not, 4L80E

  1. #1
    Registered User Big T's Avatar
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    Default To Flush or Not, 4L80E

    What's involved in flushing the transmission? Is it really all that it's cracked up to be, or is it just a way for shops to get your $$$. How much does it cost on the 4L80E? How often should it be done?
    1999 Chevy Suburban K2500 4x4 w/ 6.5TD 190K miles. 4L80E and 3.73 rear gears. HD lift pump, ATT, Heath HO injectors, 4" Diamond Eye Turbo Back exhaust, Warpspeed x-over, deleted soot trap , D-Tech pmd behind bumper, Heath programming for ATT, Pillar mounted gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp. Replaced IP at 130K. HID light conversion with All-4-On-Hi. Forged Alcoa wheels.

    My son's 1994 GMC Suburban K2500 4x4 w/ 6.5TD 243K miles. 4L80E and 4.10 rear gears. Buddy 4 position tune. Rebuilt Bosch injectors and new Duraterm glows. HO water pump with Dmax fan, HD fan clutch and new AC Delco 195 T-stats. Diamond Eye 3" Downpipe and 4" exhaust, deleted soot trap. Warp speed 2.5" mandrel bent crossover. D-Tech PMD mounted behind the bumper. Pillar mounted gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp. Rancho 9000 shocks. Rebuilt front end and steering box tightened. Forged Alcoa wheels.

  2. #2
    FRANKENBURBAN THEFERMANATOR's Avatar
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    Default

    Flushing can be a double edged sword. If you drop your pan every 30K miles and change the filter you shouldn't ever need to flush it out. On the other hand, if you don't service your fluid and filter clutch material builds up and teh flush will clean it out. The kicker is though, many times when all the clutch material comes loose it will go into the valve body and plug it up and take the trans out. It is mostly just a money making service as it really isn't that intensive to do. The only time it is really beneficial is if you are changing from say dino oil to synthetic and want to get all of the old fluid out when you do it.
    WHO SAYS YOU CAN'T HAVE IT ALL, JUST BUILD IT

    1995 GMC 2500 SUBURBAN powered by 01 DURAMAX/ALLISON, little of this, a little of that,
    DIAMONDEYE 4" exhaust, CORSA muffler, AFE stage 1 dry filter, custom tuning by me, KENNEDY single pump and pump rub kit.


  3. #3
    Registered User Big T's Avatar
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    Thanks for the clarity on this matter.
    1999 Chevy Suburban K2500 4x4 w/ 6.5TD 190K miles. 4L80E and 3.73 rear gears. HD lift pump, ATT, Heath HO injectors, 4" Diamond Eye Turbo Back exhaust, Warpspeed x-over, deleted soot trap , D-Tech pmd behind bumper, Heath programming for ATT, Pillar mounted gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp. Replaced IP at 130K. HID light conversion with All-4-On-Hi. Forged Alcoa wheels.

    My son's 1994 GMC Suburban K2500 4x4 w/ 6.5TD 243K miles. 4L80E and 4.10 rear gears. Buddy 4 position tune. Rebuilt Bosch injectors and new Duraterm glows. HO water pump with Dmax fan, HD fan clutch and new AC Delco 195 T-stats. Diamond Eye 3" Downpipe and 4" exhaust, deleted soot trap. Warp speed 2.5" mandrel bent crossover. D-Tech PMD mounted behind the bumper. Pillar mounted gauges: EGT, Boost, Tranny Temp. Rancho 9000 shocks. Rebuilt front end and steering box tightened. Forged Alcoa wheels.

  4. #4
    Stand Your Ground 3500GMC's Avatar
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    Default

    The whole 100,000 mile transmission fluid change interval thing is just asking for it.

    You won't get but half the fluid out on a pan drop filter change, but if you are regular about it, it's not a big deal.

    I've seen it a hundred times, guys will wait until the fluid is burnt (too late) and then think, "I know how to fix THAT, I'll just drain it and pour new stuff in!" Uhh, NOT..

    Trans failure right around the corner.
    '93 GMC Sierra SLE K3500 RCLB 4L80E 4.10 axles, lockers, JB8 13x3.5 brakes, 4X4 SRW 1TON, 6.5TD now a fully ported big valve '82 6.2 turbocharged, mandrel straight pipe w/ warpspeed x-over, Fluidampr, tweeked DB2-2831-4911 IP, Battery relocation, H/O W/P, CDR elim custom vent, PYO wheels w/285-75 Dick Cepek FC-II's - Quasar Blue and Argent Silver two tone.

    ...and other various GM cars and trucks


  5. #5
    9 11 Never Forget Brooklyn Tow's Avatar
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    What about if your Rad Crapped out and you have coolant in the Trans?.......Happened to me sat. afternoon, pulled the stick and it looked like a strawberry milkshake.

    So I parked the truck and waiting for a rad, then I NEED to flush......It's my only hope to save the tranny
    Louis

    96 3500HD Dynamic Wrecker....3" DP to 4" Exhaust....Severe Duty Fan Clutch....D Max 21" Fan Blade.

    Member#2 Massive Blowby Club
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  6. #6
    FRANKENBURBAN THEFERMANATOR's Avatar
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    DEFINATELY flush it if coolant got in it. Unfortunately though, anti-freeze eats the glue that bonds teh clutch pad material to the clutch plates so get it out ASAP!
    WHO SAYS YOU CAN'T HAVE IT ALL, JUST BUILD IT

    1995 GMC 2500 SUBURBAN powered by 01 DURAMAX/ALLISON, little of this, a little of that,
    DIAMONDEYE 4" exhaust, CORSA muffler, AFE stage 1 dry filter, custom tuning by me, KENNEDY single pump and pump rub kit.


  7. #7
    Well it hits on 7 of 8... WarWagon's Avatar
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    May be cheaper to just do the trans now and save the tow bill later... Some clutch linings are paper. Then the moisture coolant mix will rust and lock up bearings. The bearings then spin and damage the case adding to the repair bill. Been there done that with a pinhole leak in the trans oil inter-cooler. Plug both holes in the radiator for the trans oil intercooler and run a air to oil cooler 2x bigger than stock. I have had good luck doing this in the past. Common failure point.

    Flushing does not get the debris off the bottom of the pan or change the dirty trans filter. Drop the pan and clean it out, new filter, then flush it.

    In the case of water the torque converter is a blender and will throw the water to the outer rim. The oil enters and exits through the center. Not easy to get the coolant out.
    Not enough room in sig for all the stuff I have that LeroyDiesel.com sells.

    2003 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT QC LB HO Cummins 6 speed handshaker w/ Pacbrake. Factory 3rd pedal anti theft.

    1993 Chevy "Patch" K2500 6.5 Diesel LB project beater... Now a 6.2 re-power w/6.5 NA heads. Gapless rings. Walbro FRB-5. A-Team Turbo. ARP head studs. 6 banger Trans tune chip I think I have changed, replaced, or tightened every bolt and nut on this thing!

  8. #8
    9 11 Never Forget Brooklyn Tow's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WarWagon View Post
    May be cheaper to just do the trans now and save the tow bill later... Some clutch linings are paper. Then the moisture coolant mix will rust and lock up bearings. The bearings then spin and damage the case adding to the repair bill. Been there done that with a pinhole leak in the trans oil inter-cooler. Plug both holes in the radiator for the trans oil intercooler and run a air to oil cooler 2x bigger than stock. I have had good luck doing this in the past. Common failure point.

    Flushing does not get the debris off the bottom of the pan or change the dirty trans filter. Drop the pan and clean it out, new filter, then flush it.

    In the case of water the torque converter is a blender and will throw the water to the outer rim. The oil enters and exits through the center. Not easy to get the coolant out.
    Already have a external Trans cooler OEM (3500HD).....

    Lets be optimistic.....Change rad and flush cooling system, Flush tranny with machine, drop pan, change filter, and flush again after it drives for a week or two.....

    Need some good Karma!!
    Louis

    96 3500HD Dynamic Wrecker....3" DP to 4" Exhaust....Severe Duty Fan Clutch....D Max 21" Fan Blade.

    Member#2 Massive Blowby Club
    Member#43 DTR/TTS Dually Club
    Member#5 RC Club




  9. #9
    9 11 Never Forget Brooklyn Tow's Avatar
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    Default

    Flushed everything and swapped filter Friday, refilled......Truck seems OK....Will drop the pan again Monday and replace filter and fluid as needed.
    Louis

    96 3500HD Dynamic Wrecker....3" DP to 4" Exhaust....Severe Duty Fan Clutch....D Max 21" Fan Blade.

    Member#2 Massive Blowby Club
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