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Thread: Aftermarket cd/mp3 stereo for chevy silverado -94?

  1. #1
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    Default Aftermarket cd/mp3 stereo for chevy silverado -94?

    Hey guys!

    As much as I love listening to the engine sound and turbo whistle on my truck, I enjoy good music as well. And I know nothing better than relaxing in my truck on those long drives, eating up the miles at a steady pace while listening to my favorite tunes on a high quality audio setup. However, my truck is currently equipped with an original tape casette stereo/radio which doesn't do me much good. I need something slightly more modern to go with my road trips... Hence my question: Are there any aftermarket CD/mp3 players that will fit straight into my truck and can be operated from the original control panel (the one on your right from the driver's point of view, the one that controls the A/C, fan and stereo etc)? This isn't really necessary at all I admit, I could just go with any quality player and install it. I just thought it would be cool if I could operate it from the original control panel as it is quite far to reach if you want to change tune or adjust the volume etc if the stereo is to be mounted in the original slot

    So, any tips?

    Regards,
    Anton.
    My truck:
    Chevrolet 1500 Silverado 4x4 6.5TD
    230 000 kms
    stock engine, turbo, gearbox etc.
    Homemade 4" straight pipe exhaust from original turbo downpipe and back.
    Open conical airfilter mounted directly on turbo inlet.
    PMD relocated to side of engine bay.
    That's basically it... For now!

  2. #2
    Registered User Suburbank2500's Avatar
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    Hi Anton, it is possible to fix this quite easy: http://www.myinstallkit.com/GMC/1993...tion%20Kit.htm
    And a replacement for the tuner unit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-GMC-CHEVY...-/110717146292
    $(KGrHqJHJE!E88,mLmD4BP,ObmFCsQ~~60_12.jpg3154.jpg

    You may find both parts on ebay also, i did this swap, and reused the original amplifier under the drivers seat, i have the shematics for the amp if you need it.
    Dont think you will find any stereo that fits in the dash where the original was installed, get a single din with remote

    BÝrge
    1994 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 6,5 TD
    Custom intercooler
    Self buildt Fan tempcontroller
    Marine injectors
    Removed snorkle.
    3,5 inch exhaust
    Cat MIA
    Nr 9 resistor
    Opened Plenum
    3 pillar gauges.
    GMTD Scan tech
    A-Team Turbo
    Buddy 3 banger Installed
    K-47 filter box
    AFE dry media filter
    3.73:1 Rear

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suburbank2500 View Post
    Hi Anton, it is possible to fix this quite easy: http://www.myinstallkit.com/GMC/1993...tion%20Kit.htm
    And a replacement for the tuner unit: http://www.ebay.com/itm/GM-GMC-CHEVY...-/110717146292
    $(KGrHqJHJE!E88,mLmD4BP,ObmFCsQ~~60_12.jpg3154.jpg

    You may find both parts on ebay also, i did this swap, and reused the original amplifier under the drivers seat, i have the shematics for the amp if you need it.
    Dont think you will find any stereo that fits in the dash where the original was installed, get a single din with remote

    BÝrge
    Hi!

    Thanks very much for the info! So what you're sying is that I should replace both the stereo and the control panel, get a separate control unit for the new stereo and mount it where the original control panel used to sit? Doesn't that mean I lose the controls for the fan unit and all that as well? Or perhaps I'm misunderstanding something?

    I may very well go ahead end get myself a modern stereo with remote instead of caring about the control panel, just thought it would be kinda cool if I could operate the new stereo just like the old one

    Thanks mate!
    Cheers
    My truck:
    Chevrolet 1500 Silverado 4x4 6.5TD
    230 000 kms
    stock engine, turbo, gearbox etc.
    Homemade 4" straight pipe exhaust from original turbo downpipe and back.
    Open conical airfilter mounted directly on turbo inlet.
    PMD relocated to side of engine bay.
    That's basically it... For now!

  4. #4
    Registered User Suburbank2500's Avatar
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    Hi Anton

    1: You replace the radio unit with the Pocket from Ebay
    2: You remove the equalizer\cassette deck, and panel. And replace it with the panel i posted.
    There is also a tuner unit in the dash that can be removed.
    3: install a new radio\mount frame where the cassette player\eqalizer was..
    4: connect the new radio to the amplifier under the seat if you want to, its easier than laying new cables, the connector is in the dash at the tuner unit.
    Attached Images Attached Images
    1994 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 6,5 TD
    Custom intercooler
    Self buildt Fan tempcontroller
    Marine injectors
    Removed snorkle.
    3,5 inch exhaust
    Cat MIA
    Nr 9 resistor
    Opened Plenum
    3 pillar gauges.
    GMTD Scan tech
    A-Team Turbo
    Buddy 3 banger Installed
    K-47 filter box
    AFE dry media filter
    3.73:1 Rear

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Suburbank2500 View Post
    Hi Anton

    1: You replace the radio unit with the Pocket from Ebay
    2: You remove the equalizer\cassette deck, and panel. And replace it with the panel i posted.
    There is also a tuner unit in the dash that can be removed.
    3: install a new radio\mount frame where the cassette player\eqalizer was..
    4: connect the new radio to the amplifier under the seat if you want to, its easier than laying new cables, the connector is in the dash at the tuner unit.
    Hi!

    Aha, now I get it. Thanks very much for clarifying! So there is no way of getting the original control panel to control a modern stereo? Adjusting volume and changing track I mean.
    Do you know what kind of stats the original amp has? I probably will lay down some new cables anyhow as I'm pretty sure my six channel amp (planning on going for the full package, woofers, 6*9" etc. Not because I enjoy playing stupidly loud or bass heavy music, but because I enjoy hearing all the elements of my music in high quality) will be better, but still might be fun to know
    My truck:
    Chevrolet 1500 Silverado 4x4 6.5TD
    230 000 kms
    stock engine, turbo, gearbox etc.
    Homemade 4" straight pipe exhaust from original turbo downpipe and back.
    Open conical airfilter mounted directly on turbo inlet.
    PMD relocated to side of engine bay.
    That's basically it... For now!

  6. #6
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    http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sho...my-6-5-friends

    Ahhh darn it, I just realized yrs is a 94, sorry mine a 95

  7. #7
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    I have a 94, just like yours, and have had the dash completely apart. From your questions I'm guessing you have not had the dash apart far enough to get to the radio. Here's how to remove the radio. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures when I was taking my dash apart, although this part is easy to replicate and take pics if needed..

    You need to set in the drivers seat and look at the dash pod that juts up from the main dash unit. The steering wheel needs to be tilted all the way to the bottom position, and if your pickup has an automatic transmission the auto shift lever needs to be all the way down in the low gear position.

    Look at the dash bezel that surrounds the gauges, light switches, heater controls, and radio. There are four torx head screws, one in each corner of the bezel, that need to be removed. There are also three hidden spring tabs across the top of the bezel. These tabs are held in their sockets just with friction from the springs. Once the screws are removed the bezel can be gently pulled forward, while pulling the tabs out of their sockets. Be careful as these tabs can be easily broken, requiring replacement of the bezel.

    The light switches to the left of the gauges stay in the bezel and will need to have the wiring connectors removed to finish getting the bezel completely out of the way. The radio and heater controls stay in the frame of the dash.

    At this point the radio can be removed. If my memory is correct the heater controls need to have the mounting screws removed and the control hanging loose before the radio mounting screws can all be accessed. What you see as the radio is actually only a part of the radio. The rest is a metal box inside the dash, behind and below this location.

    Your original radio control unit that is in the dash just above the heater controls will be removed, without affecting the heater controls. This will leave an empty spot in the dash panel above the heater controls. The e-bay link provided shows a pocket that will be installed in the dash in place of the radio.

    Then, the first link shows a radio install kit that allows you to put a new stereo radio in the dash, to the right of the dash pod, in place of the cassette tape player. This portion of the dash around the cassette player just pops out.

    Open the glove box and look at the left end of the lid hinge. The dash panel to the left of the glove box lid is held in by two spring tabs on the lower edge and two plastic tabs on the top edge. There is a small opening in this panel next to the lid hinge. Carefully insert a flat blade screwdriver in the opening and gently pry out. This will pop out the first spring tab. Then get your fingers under this part of the panel and gently pull out to get the second spring tab loose. At this point lift the panel out and down to pull the upper tabs out.

    The cassette is held in with some hex head screws. At this point you will need to follow directions for your replacement stereo unit for the install.

    Don
    1983 Chev 1/2 ton 6.2 N/A, mileage unknown but obviously high, my "training wheels" for diesel, planned use was to make a trailer and possible heart transplant for my 1971 FJ40 Landcruiser

    1994 Chev K2500 4X4 6.5TD, extra cab, long bed, Turbomaster and snorkle removal by P.O. to my P.O., PMD relocated, LP relay mod and at same time added push button for fuel filter priming, 2.5" crossover, Diamond Eye 3" downpipe and 4" exhaust, all on headlights mod, boost fooler, gauges (EGT, boost, fuel pressure, H2O temp, tranny temp), homegrown version of Feed The Beast, TCC lockup mod, 9 blade DMax fan, HO balanced flow water pump, Heath's low temp fan clutch

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    Quote Originally Posted by Crankme69 View Post
    http://www.thetruckstop.us/forum/sho...my-6-5-friends

    Ahhh darn it, I just realized yrs is a 94, sorry mine a 95
    That's cool! Very nifty, got everything withing reach so to speak... Too bad my dash looks different, but maybe I might be able to translate some of the idea to my trucks year... I'm gonna check it out, thanks for the tip!
    My truck:
    Chevrolet 1500 Silverado 4x4 6.5TD
    230 000 kms
    stock engine, turbo, gearbox etc.
    Homemade 4" straight pipe exhaust from original turbo downpipe and back.
    Open conical airfilter mounted directly on turbo inlet.
    PMD relocated to side of engine bay.
    That's basically it... For now!

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by handcannon View Post
    I have a 94, just like yours, and have had the dash completely apart. From your questions I'm guessing you have not had the dash apart far enough to get to the radio. Here's how to remove the radio. Sorry, I didn't take any pictures when I was taking my dash apart, although this part is easy to replicate and take pics if needed..

    You need to set in the drivers seat and look at the dash pod that juts up from the main dash unit. The steering wheel needs to be tilted all the way to the bottom position, and if your pickup has an automatic transmission the auto shift lever needs to be all the way down in the low gear position.

    Look at the dash bezel that surrounds the gauges, light switches, heater controls, and radio. There are four torx head screws, one in each corner of the bezel, that need to be removed. There are also three hidden spring tabs across the top of the bezel. These tabs are held in their sockets just with friction from the springs. Once the screws are removed the bezel can be gently pulled forward, while pulling the tabs out of their sockets. Be careful as these tabs can be easily broken, requiring replacement of the bezel.

    The light switches to the left of the gauges stay in the bezel and will need to have the wiring connectors removed to finish getting the bezel completely out of the way. The radio and heater controls stay in the frame of the dash.

    At this point the radio can be removed. If my memory is correct the heater controls need to have the mounting screws removed and the control hanging loose before the radio mounting screws can all be accessed. What you see as the radio is actually only a part of the radio. The rest is a metal box inside the dash, behind and below this location.

    Your original radio control unit that is in the dash just above the heater controls will be removed, without affecting the heater controls. This will leave an empty spot in the dash panel above the heater controls. The e-bay link provided shows a pocket that will be installed in the dash in place of the radio.

    Then, the first link shows a radio install kit that allows you to put a new stereo radio in the dash, to the right of the dash pod, in place of the cassette tape player. This portion of the dash around the cassette player just pops out.

    Open the glove box and look at the left end of the lid hinge. The dash panel to the left of the glove box lid is held in by two spring tabs on the lower edge and two plastic tabs on the top edge. There is a small opening in this panel next to the lid hinge. Carefully insert a flat blade screwdriver in the opening and gently pry out. This will pop out the first spring tab. Then get your fingers under this part of the panel and gently pull out to get the second spring tab loose. At this point lift the panel out and down to pull the upper tabs out.

    The cassette is held in with some hex head screws. At this point you will need to follow directions for your replacement stereo unit for the install.

    Don
    Thanks very much for the detailed descirption of the procedure! Helps to know what order to do stuff in! Thanks very much!
    My truck:
    Chevrolet 1500 Silverado 4x4 6.5TD
    230 000 kms
    stock engine, turbo, gearbox etc.
    Homemade 4" straight pipe exhaust from original turbo downpipe and back.
    Open conical airfilter mounted directly on turbo inlet.
    PMD relocated to side of engine bay.
    That's basically it... For now!

  10. #10
    Registered User someotherguy's Avatar
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    That storage pocket also makes a handy spot for a pair of gauges. Depending on the size of whatever remote your new stereo comes with, it may still fit in there along with the gauges. The one for my Pioneer head unit fits just fine in there. Be sure to get the storage pocket that has a "lip" around it (see below for part #'s), some of them are just flat at the bottom and anything you put in there will slide right out when you step on the loud pedal.

    Here's the setup in my '94 extended cab...



    Behind the scenes:





    As far as kit quality, I strongly suggest you search eBay/Amazon for AMI - American International - the dash kit is part # GMK-333, the storage pocket is GMP-333. Even the AMI dash kit takes a little bit of tweaking to make the A/C vents fit correctly, but overall, this is the best quality kit I've found. Do not under any circumstances even bother with Metra or Scosche which are the brands you'll most typically find locally.

    Don't forget to get the wiring harness adapter and antenna adapter. Sometimes you can find all 4 items sold together for one price.

    Richard
    Please be sure to check out my truck shop projects - home page is listed in my profile

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by someotherguy View Post
    That storage pocket also makes a handy spot for a pair of gauges. Depending on the size of whatever remote your new stereo comes with, it may still fit in there along with the gauges. The one for my Pioneer head unit fits just fine in there. Be sure to get the storage pocket that has a "lip" around it (see below for part #'s), some of them are just flat at the bottom and anything you put in there will slide right out when you step on the loud pedal.

    Here's the setup in my '94 extended cab...



    Behind the scenes:





    As far as kit quality, I strongly suggest you search eBay/Amazon for AMI - American International - the dash kit is part # GMK-333, the storage pocket is GMP-333. Even the AMI dash kit takes a little bit of tweaking to make the A/C vents fit correctly, but overall, this is the best quality kit I've found. Do not under any circumstances even bother with Metra or Scosche which are the brands you'll most typically find locally.

    Don't forget to get the wiring harness adapter and antenna adapter. Sometimes you can find all 4 items sold together for one price.

    Richard
    That's severely cool! I might just copy that setup, if I may Oh, by the way. If I may go slightly off topic: Where do you get one of those turbo boost gauges, and how do you fit it? Can you get one to go with the stock turbo and get a reading on how much boost you're making, or is it strictly aftermarket turbo territory? Where does it get the "signal" from the turbo so to speak?

    Thanks very much for the info! Very informative, I appreciate it! Good tip on the "lipped" storage compartment also! Would be annoying if the remote just went flying whenever you accelerate, the cab is kind of big with lots of places for a remote to hide...

    Thanks very much man!

    Cheers,
    Anton.
    My truck:
    Chevrolet 1500 Silverado 4x4 6.5TD
    230 000 kms
    stock engine, turbo, gearbox etc.
    Homemade 4" straight pipe exhaust from original turbo downpipe and back.
    Open conical airfilter mounted directly on turbo inlet.
    PMD relocated to side of engine bay.
    That's basically it... For now!

  12. #12
    Been there, broke that.
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    Watching this... as I have a '94 that needs stereo work!
    1994 K1500 3.8 - vm638. hx30/hx52 4l80e
    1992 K1500 3.9 - Fuel and air mods.

  13. #13
    Registered User NVW's Avatar
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    The easiest way to get setup for a boost gauge is to get the "Boost Bolt" from PMDCable, a site vendor. It replaces one of the intake manifold bolts. Or you can drill and tap the intake. A 1/8" plastic hose then goes to the gauge.

    Quote Originally Posted by Bushido View Post
    That's severely cool! I might just copy that setup, if I may Oh, by the way. If I may go slightly off topic: Where do you get one of those turbo boost gauges, and how do you fit it? Can you get one to go with the stock turbo and get a reading on how much boost you're making, or is it strictly aftermarket turbo territory? Where does it get the "signal" from the turbo so to speak?

    Thanks very much for the info! Very informative, I appreciate it! Good tip on the "lipped" storage compartment also! Would be annoying if the remote just went flying whenever you accelerate, the cab is kind of big with lots of places for a remote to hide...

    Thanks very much man!

    Cheers,
    Anton.
    Leo
    * 95 GMC 3500 4x4 dually, VIN "F", 4.10 gears, 4L80/E trans, 405,000km, 3" downpipe, 4" exhaust, FSD mounted on heat sink in bumper, #9 resistor, 3 pillar gauge's, High Idle kit, Bosch marine injectors, Bosch Duraterm glow plugs, Leroy's ATT chip, ATT, GP overide, K47 airbox, FTB, Racor fuel filter, fuel pressure gauge
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    Registered User someotherguy's Avatar
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    Those are AutoMeter brand gauges, "Z Series", 2-1/16" size, which I picked because they had at least some similarity in appearance to the stock dash cluster (white lettering, black face, orange needles) - especially after I swapped my cluster out with one that still had nice bright orange needles instead of faded out yellow.



    Those with a sharp eye and 88-98 model knowledge will probably notice what else is special about this particular dash cluster. And BTW, my '94 extended cab is a gasser, in case anybody was wondering about that.

    Richard
    Please be sure to check out my truck shop projects - home page is listed in my profile

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    It has a Tach.
    Louis

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