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Thread: Leaking Hydroboost Brake Booster

  1. #16
    Registered User ak diesel driver's Avatar
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    please post contact info for MBM
    96 gmc k2500 4" exhaust, marine inj, #9 resistor, GL4, turbomaster, duraterms,-1.94 TDCO,FTB, remote pmd, isspro pillar gauges, lift pump relay added ,141 block, 2 1000 w block heaters, 2 150w glue on oilpan heaters, 2 150w glue on transpan heaters, 97 K47 air filter , IP replaced at 229k ,gear drive set awaiting install, Parts for intercooler waiting to be installed

    94 k1500 excab sb 6.5 plow truck. Fisher plow w/engine driven pump, F intake, h/m turbomaster, plowing chip by Buddy, remote PMD w#9 resistor, Duraterms

    96 k3500 CC 6.5 dually
    94 k2500 excab lb 6.5 parts truck
    00 burb 5.3 wifes
    70 Ford reg cab lb 428 cj richmond 5spd lockers 35s
    75 Vette built 383 needs work
    62 Tempest convertible way on the back burner project
    85 Honda VF1000R
    90 P30 Cummins BT4 work van
    90 Int SA dump w/trailer
    416c backhoe

  2. #17
    Not just a truck... a project. chefmike's Avatar
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    David Ziller is the accounts manager (david at mbmbrakeboosters.com) 800.231.4125 x107
    He said he would be more than happy to sell kits and could set up a dealer as well.

    mbm brakes

    The 501 kit on the bottom is what they recommended. It has that star washer that Is key somewhere in the process. They have a pdf of the rebuild here

    I choose not to go this route, as it looked like more than I wanted to curse at. I am not intuitive when it comes to this stuff and $200, though expensive, seems worth it. Mine is still leaking, as I have yet to tackle the job. Looks like a pain to get to the brake pedal. I guess you can drop the steering column retaining brackets to make it easier?
    1995 Suburban 2500 2wd 200k 3.73 gears Vin F, bumper FSD, Bosch (India) Injectors, bosch duratherms, 3" banks Exhaust (thanks Ferm!). guages on the pillar. vacuum boost. AC/Delco fuel pump, economy/ daily driver chip from a buddy. Fresh fan clutch and duramax fan. Various leaks. Crappy paint job.

  3. #18
    Registered User ak diesel driver's Avatar
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    thanks
    96 gmc k2500 4" exhaust, marine inj, #9 resistor, GL4, turbomaster, duraterms,-1.94 TDCO,FTB, remote pmd, isspro pillar gauges, lift pump relay added ,141 block, 2 1000 w block heaters, 2 150w glue on oilpan heaters, 2 150w glue on transpan heaters, 97 K47 air filter , IP replaced at 229k ,gear drive set awaiting install, Parts for intercooler waiting to be installed

    94 k1500 excab sb 6.5 plow truck. Fisher plow w/engine driven pump, F intake, h/m turbomaster, plowing chip by Buddy, remote PMD w#9 resistor, Duraterms

    96 k3500 CC 6.5 dually
    94 k2500 excab lb 6.5 parts truck
    00 burb 5.3 wifes
    70 Ford reg cab lb 428 cj richmond 5spd lockers 35s
    75 Vette built 383 needs work
    62 Tempest convertible way on the back burner project
    85 Honda VF1000R
    90 P30 Cummins BT4 work van
    90 Int SA dump w/trailer
    416c backhoe

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by chefmike View Post
    I choose not to go this route, as it looked like more than I wanted to curse at. I am not intuitive when it comes to this stuff and $200, though expensive, seems worth it. Mine is still leaking, as I have yet to tackle the job. Looks like a pain to get to the brake pedal. I guess you can drop the steering column retaining brackets to make it easier?
    It's not that bad as long as you can contort your body under the dash

    Like I said earlier, just get a gear wrench for the four nuts on the firewall. They are all locknuts and are very long winded. I retrospect, when re-installing mine, I should have got regular nuts and some lock washers rather than fighting the nylocks all the way down those threads, or just cut half the threads off.

  5. #20
    Brain Damaged Diesel Junkie dangerousdave's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dangerousdave View Post
    I bought a seal set from MBM online. http://www.mbmbrakeboosters.com/Hydr...uild-Kits.html
    They are wholesale to shops, but you might talk your way in...):h
    Kit 50 Hydro-Boost Repair Kit (Mostly Rubber) about $40 IIRC.
    I did it myself, not much blood, only a couple of cuss words.
    Be sure to flush the entire power steering and boost system before you start, to give the new seals longer life. I found a thread or two about this stuff around here before the DTR / TTS switch.

    If you don't want to DIY, there are "lifetime guarantee" units...
    It wasn't that hard, I took the hood hinge pivot bolts out to raise the hood vertical. I also only replaced the leaking seal, not the whole kit.
    Not as Dangerous as I used to be Dave

    http://www.silent-warriors.com/ Veterans of America Club, member #25
    1994 Suburban 6.5TD C2500 "F", 3.73 gears, 4L80E, 265K+ miles. Heath clone bumper mount fsd, custom S&B 5x9 intake, home grown TM, Flowmaster DP and X-over, hollow soot trap, Biodiesel rated fuel lines, http://leroydiesel.com/ (Burning Oil) OPS ext. hose kit, oil cooler kit, Walbro LP. Racor pre LP filter, removed tank sock, Fuel press and boost gauges, fuel pressure gauge isolator, moved PS battery to fender, Lubrilon engine treatment, 21.2 average mpg, added air dam to improve cooling and mpg; .6mpg better now. 1 qt ND30 per 20 gallons of fuel, PS gray bottle per instructions for maintenance; keeps the injectors clean

  6. #21
    Registered User Bigburban's Avatar
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    While we are on the subject......I have no leaks and my hydro boost is a few years old but I get a pulsing feeling in the brakes every now and then? new calipers rotors and brakes also done. Any sugestions? Or normal?
    1996 Chevy Suburban 2500 "f" code 6.5TD New Engine, turbo, Ip ect. (new everything!) High output water pump with dual thermos. 3''exhaust. New HD wheels. 4.10 gears. Air intake. Manual Waste-gate (homemade) no vacuum pump. New pmd cooler kit relocated to the interior. Turbo boost bolt and boost gauge. Duramax fan and clutch.

  7. #22
    Brain Damaged Diesel Junkie dangerousdave's Avatar
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    Purge the power steering / hydroboost system.
    I use the best power steering fluid I can afford, clear. I know i posted or read the full procedure before, but it's been a while.

    Basicaly, disconnect the return line(low pressure) that runs from the hydroboost to the P/S reservior.
    Plug the reservior return hole to prevent fluid loss.
    Connect a longer transparent hose to the return outlet at the hydroboost and run it into a bucket. Siphon, vacuum, or use a baster to remove as much old fluid from the reservior as possible, fill with new fluid.
    Start the engine.
    With an assistant at the steering wheel moving it back and forth, lock to lock, and pressing the brake pedal intermittently, keep adding new p/s fluid until the return line runs clear.
    Reconnect the return line and top off the reservior to the line.

    If the PO had done this once a year, I doubt the h/boost seal would have ever leaked.
    Last edited by dangerousdave; 08-03-2011 at 08:45 PM. Reason: forgotten detail
    Not as Dangerous as I used to be Dave

    http://www.silent-warriors.com/ Veterans of America Club, member #25
    1994 Suburban 6.5TD C2500 "F", 3.73 gears, 4L80E, 265K+ miles. Heath clone bumper mount fsd, custom S&B 5x9 intake, home grown TM, Flowmaster DP and X-over, hollow soot trap, Biodiesel rated fuel lines, http://leroydiesel.com/ (Burning Oil) OPS ext. hose kit, oil cooler kit, Walbro LP. Racor pre LP filter, removed tank sock, Fuel press and boost gauges, fuel pressure gauge isolator, moved PS battery to fender, Lubrilon engine treatment, 21.2 average mpg, added air dam to improve cooling and mpg; .6mpg better now. 1 qt ND30 per 20 gallons of fuel, PS gray bottle per instructions for maintenance; keeps the injectors clean

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by dangerousdave View Post
    Purge the power steering / hydroboost system.
    I use the best power steering fluid I can afford, clear. I know i posted or read the full procedure before, but it's been a while.

    Basicaly, disconnect the return line(low pressure) that runs from the hydroboost to the P/S reservior.
    Plug the reservior return hole to prevent fluid loss.
    Connect a longer transparent hose to the return outlet at the hydroboost and run it into a bucket. Siphon, vacuum, or use a baster to remove as much old fluid from the reservior as possible, fill with new fluid.
    Start the engine.
    With an assistant at the steering wheel moving it back and forth, lock to lock, and pressing the brake pedal intermittently, keep adding new p/s fluid until the return line runs clear.
    Reconnect the return line and top off the reservior to the line.

    If the PO had done this once a year, I doubt the h/boost seal would have ever leaked.
    aahh, the thing was leaking so much and then on hoses removal a lot syphon'd out I think. so it's been purging for months with constant adding of new stuff. I wiped out the black off the bore area where it collects the most, put new in the grove and cyl parts and then filled it with new. I don't have a floor jack so I just turned the wheel side to side...a little at first, and kept an eye on the fluid level- engine running cap off.

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by nealpellecchia View Post
    yeah and he even called me back to tell me how to make a special tool too put the final spring retainer on in the front!! couldn't have done it with out it.
    Can you show a pic of the tool or give a description of it and the steps to removing and replacing the retainer?
    Thanks

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chevy350 View Post
    Can you show a pic of the tool or give a description of it and the steps to removing and replacing the retainer?
    Thanks
    yeah, it's just a square sawed piece of plastic pipe about the right size so you can equally push the retainer in until it sits in the grove. still a bit difficult.

  11. #26
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    mine still is not leaking over 10,000 miles... now maybe you can help me people. Rebuilt starter has been a problem. I thought that I had it figured out to be only the ignition switch because I could go through the wheel well with a screwdriver and cross those terminals to make it crank. But all of a sudden I get a weak spark there and it won't crank sometimes. A friend and I got it to fail with the key held in the start position and then he rapped the starter a bit with a hammer until it cranked! So you think it's the starter motor or is it the solenoid contacts. Is the armature hitting the field and getting hung up? it always starts again after waiting sometimes a long time or maybe from moving the tilt wheel to straight from the up position. I see oil leaking around it so maybe the case is cooling and getting smaller to hit the hotter expanded armature? If so was I just lucky enough to jump the terminals like 20 times in a row in getting it to start? Do I have two problems, the switch and the starter??

    I resisted taking it back to the poor guy who did take it down once to put on a new solenoid which gave good results for about 4 months. I tried to save "his" starter but now it may be a rebuild issue after all. That first starter he gave me would run on a little after starting making that sound like it needed to be shimmed. It's a non-shimmed starter. It even got hung up one time attached to the flywheel and turning with the engine for several seconds before he put the new solenoid on. The old starter never clicked but drew a lot of current in the last several days...and maybe burnt the ignition switch terminals??? Help anyone! 6.5 1993 diesel. And ...the 3 cheap replacement heater cores have corroded in the same place by the smaller tube... last only a few months.

  12. #27
    Registered User ak diesel driver's Avatar
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    make sure you buy a good quality selenoid not the cheap $30 chinese ones. I got mine thru Romaine Electric and it cost $60 and was made in Brazil. (it's the one they recommended)
    96 gmc k2500 4" exhaust, marine inj, #9 resistor, GL4, turbomaster, duraterms,-1.94 TDCO,FTB, remote pmd, isspro pillar gauges, lift pump relay added ,141 block, 2 1000 w block heaters, 2 150w glue on oilpan heaters, 2 150w glue on transpan heaters, 97 K47 air filter , IP replaced at 229k ,gear drive set awaiting install, Parts for intercooler waiting to be installed

    94 k1500 excab sb 6.5 plow truck. Fisher plow w/engine driven pump, F intake, h/m turbomaster, plowing chip by Buddy, remote PMD w#9 resistor, Duraterms

    96 k3500 CC 6.5 dually
    94 k2500 excab lb 6.5 parts truck
    00 burb 5.3 wifes
    70 Ford reg cab lb 428 cj richmond 5spd lockers 35s
    75 Vette built 383 needs work
    62 Tempest convertible way on the back burner project
    85 Honda VF1000R
    90 P30 Cummins BT4 work van
    90 Int SA dump w/trailer
    416c backhoe

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