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Thread: Leaking Hydroboost Brake Booster

  1. #1
    Author of The DB2 Conversion Guide bobbiemartin's Avatar
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    Default Leaking Hydroboost Brake Booster

    The hydraulic brake booster on the Suburban is leaking, so I guess its time to replace it. I have been told to stay away from the rebuilds as they tend to leak soon after installing. Anyone have any experience with these or any tips on replacement? Thanks!
    Bobbie Martin
    1995 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 6.5 TD 2WD- DB2 mechanical fuel injection
    GEP Optimizer 6.53 Detroit Diesel Power
    6.53L, GEP Block & Heads, .020 over, ARP studs, DB2 Inj. pump, GM8 Turbo w/TurboMaster
    K47 Airbox with K&N filter, 3" mandrel bent exhaust, 2¼" Crossover
    HO Water Pump, Hayden "Truck Fan" Clutch, 21" 9 blade Duramax Fan

    No PMD, APP, optical sensor or vacuum pump!
    Author of The DB2 Conversion Guide

  2. #2
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    Where is it leaking?
    2002 crew cab
    Most of the arguments to which I am party fall somewhat short of being impressive, owing to the fact that neither I nor my opponent knows what we are talking about.
    Robert Benchley


  3. #3
    I have injecter-itis 625fireman's Avatar
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    I have had good luck with Cardone.
    Joe

    1994 K 3500 6.5 4x4 flatbed, snowplow, 2.5" crossover, 3" downpipe, 3"-4" increaser, no kitty, no muffler, homemade turbo master, 4" black stacks, pmd cooler, auto, gooseneck, hitch, TDCO-1.94 134K and countin
    1994 K 3500 6.5 4x4 frame, cab. build plans include: snowplow, stacks, paint, 250 HP 6.5, NV4500, central hyd., switchable beds. 68,000 miles
    1986 Chevy S10 2wd rust bucket fuel saver.scrapped
    1978 Chevy 1/2 ton flatbed 350 auto. Push truck for sprint cars @ Sharon speedway (Hillbilly Express)RIP
    1972 Monte Carlo project (16th birthday present has been neglected for 12 years now )
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  4. #4
    LeroyDiesel.com Burning oil's Avatar
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    I replaced mine using compression to flare fittings on the steel lines and stainless steel braid hoses. Im pretty sure I have pictures if wanted? I can also get a price if you don't want to DIY.
    Leroy.
    www.leroydiesel.com <<< CLICK
    We sell pmd extension cables and the FS PMD or the new Stanadyne PMD with available 7 year warranty.Turbo Boost Bolts and lots of 6.5 turbo diesel parts. Check out the web site.
    Be sure to update your signature with products you bought from me.
    1 ton, crew cab, 6.5 diesel w/DB2 4911 IP. srw.
    1994 2wd Suburban.
    I like it alot. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NH9t44iOiA4

  5. #5
    Brain Damaged Diesel Junkie dangerousdave's Avatar
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    I bought a seal set from MBM online. http://www.mbmbrakeboosters.com/Hydr...uild-Kits.html
    They are wholesale to shops, but you might talk your way in...):h
    Kit 50 Hydro-Boost Repair Kit (Mostly Rubber) about $40 IIRC.
    I did it myself, not much blood, only a couple of cuss words.
    Be sure to flush the entire power steering and boost system before you start, to give the new seals longer life. I found a thread or two about this stuff around here before the DTR / TTS switch.

    If you don't want to DIY, there are "lifetime guarantee" units...
    Last edited by dangerousdave; 05-22-2010 at 01:19 AM. Reason: OOps
    Not as Dangerous as I used to be Dave

    http://www.silent-warriors.com/ Veterans of America Club, member #25
    1994 Suburban 6.5TD C2500 "F", 3.73 gears, 4L80E, 265K+ miles. Heath clone bumper mount fsd, custom S&B 5x9 intake, home grown TM, Flowmaster DP and X-over, hollow soot trap, Biodiesel rated fuel lines, http://leroydiesel.com/ (Burning Oil) OPS ext. hose kit, oil cooler kit, Walbro LP. Racor pre LP filter, removed tank sock, Fuel press and boost gauges, fuel pressure gauge isolator, moved PS battery to fender, Lubrilon engine treatment, 21.2 average mpg, added air dam to improve cooling and mpg; .6mpg better now. 1 qt ND30 per 20 gallons of fuel, PS gray bottle per instructions for maintenance; keeps the injectors clean

  6. #6
    Diesel fanatic!
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    Rebuilt mine with an Auto Zone or Napa kit... 5 years ago. No problems whatsoever and easy to do.
    1995 Suburban 2500, 6.5 TD, 4L80e, 4x4 w/3.73s. 350,000 miles. Mods: PMD relocated in bumper, Burning Oil's FSD harness extension, rebuilt injectors, Bosch Duraterm GPs, 97 air filter, CS-144 alternator, Heath boost controller, OPS bypass relay with on/off switch for LP, Pinnacle exhaust with 2.5" crossover, TransGO HD-2 shift kit, TCC mod, Pyro/boost/trans gauges, homemade 2-0 welders cable (batteries, alt, and starter), KOJO chip, and Feed the Beast fuel line upgrade, DMax fan, new harmonic balancer, vacuum pump delete.

  7. #7
    Well it hits on 7 of 8... WarWagon's Avatar
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    Autozone no longer sells the rebuild kits. Make sure you know what brake system option you have: the 1 ton system is more expensive.

    The star washer/retainer keeping the pushrod in on the unit is a pain. The rebuilds do not come with it. You need to move the washer up and down to get it free and out.

    The rebuild I got from autozone is doing fine so far. The don't make them new anymore.
    Not enough room in sig for all the stuff I have that LeroyDiesel.com sells.

    2003 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT QC LB HO Cummins 6 speed handshaker w/ Pacbrake. Factory 3rd pedal anti theft.

    1993 Chevy "Patch" K2500 6.5 Diesel LB project beater... Now a 6.2 re-power w/6.5 NA heads. Gapless rings. Walbro FRB-5. A-Team Turbo. ARP head studs. 6 banger Trans tune chip I think I have changed, replaced, or tightened every bolt and nut on this thing!

  8. #8
    Author of The DB2 Conversion Guide bobbiemartin's Avatar
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    I've been away at a charity event, but I found a new AC Delco unit on eBay for less than $200 shipped, so its on the way. I hope to install it next weekend.

    Thanks for the replies!

    BTW, they are still available new from the dealer, but at a pretty high cost!
    Bobbie Martin
    1995 Chevrolet Suburban 1500 6.5 TD 2WD- DB2 mechanical fuel injection
    GEP Optimizer 6.53 Detroit Diesel Power
    6.53L, GEP Block & Heads, .020 over, ARP studs, DB2 Inj. pump, GM8 Turbo w/TurboMaster
    K47 Airbox with K&N filter, 3" mandrel bent exhaust, 2¼" Crossover
    HO Water Pump, Hayden "Truck Fan" Clutch, 21" 9 blade Duramax Fan

    No PMD, APP, optical sensor or vacuum pump!
    Author of The DB2 Conversion Guide

  9. #9
    Well it hits on 7 of 8... WarWagon's Avatar
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    Must depend on the year as 1993 is no longer dealer available.
    Not enough room in sig for all the stuff I have that LeroyDiesel.com sells.

    2003 Dodge Ram 3500 SLT QC LB HO Cummins 6 speed handshaker w/ Pacbrake. Factory 3rd pedal anti theft.

    1993 Chevy "Patch" K2500 6.5 Diesel LB project beater... Now a 6.2 re-power w/6.5 NA heads. Gapless rings. Walbro FRB-5. A-Team Turbo. ARP head studs. 6 banger Trans tune chip I think I have changed, replaced, or tightened every bolt and nut on this thing!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Steve93mustanglx View Post
    Rebuilt mine with an Auto Zone or Napa kit... 5 years ago. No problems whatsoever and easy to do.
    where is the guy who said last week that you don't have to take it out of the truck to rebuild it? I took mine out but the piston stayed with the fire wall half. It's attached to the pedal still. Un-expected. The pictures all show the piston and linkage separate from the the pedal eye hole part. I've read that some are sawed off others need a special tool to detach...Help? Or will it all come through the fire wall? But then how is it separated from the seal area so you can pull it out and replace the seals there, not to mention putting the piston back into the bore/ cyl? 714-915-1364 Neal

  11. #11
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    Replaced mine with a Cardone rebuild about 4 months ago. Easy.

    One tip though, make sure you have a gear wrench and a deep socket for the four bolts holding it to the firewall. (15MM IIRC) I fought and fought them with a box end, and it can be done, but at about a 1/8th a turn at a time. Gear wrench is perfect though, and a deep socket for the two you can get at with it.

    If you have never removed your brake light switch before, that can be a bear sometimes too, and must be done for this procedure. I am not sure of the cutoff year, but mine was fairly easy as long as you don't lose the retainer clip. Some of the later year models came with a diffrent retainer that was mostly destroyed upon removal and should be replaced.

    As others have said, do a good flush while you have all the hoses loose, it is easy and only takes ~10 minutes to do with a helper.

  12. #12
    9 11 Never Forget Brooklyn Tow's Avatar
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    Replaced mine when I bought the truck....(Gotta be more than 5-6 years ago) with a rebulit unit, not sure of the brand, but she's still going fine...
    Louis

    96 3500HD Dynamic Wrecker....3" DP to 4" Exhaust....Severe Duty Fan Clutch....D Max 21" Fan Blade.

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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by nealpellecchia View Post
    where is the guy who said last week that you don't have to take it out of the truck to rebuild it? I took mine out but the piston stayed with the fire wall half. It's attached to the pedal still. Un-expected. The pictures all show the piston and linkage separate from the the pedal eye hole part. I've read that some are sawed off others need a special tool to detach...Help? Or will it all come through the fire wall? But then how is it separated from the seal area so you can pull it out and replace the seals there, not to mention putting the piston back into the bore/ cyl? 714-915-1364 Neal
    OK, I decide that if the spool valve is a machined fit back into the housing then a soaking wet piston can be put back into a machines bore with a new seal and no special tools. Well it wasn't as soaking wet as I would like to have made it but I didn't want to drop it like our Dr. almost dropped my son at child birth.

    I didn't have to destroy the brake lite switch! I just decided to use that as the decisive factor in getting it back in and avoided it. I hooked the spool valve to that piston connector, centered the unit with the bolt pattern, and started inserting screws to pull it where it needed to go! The fear and perfectionism of those piston surfaces had to take a back seat to common sense. Are you listening Washington DC? The key is that putting in a rebuild requires pulling the whole thing out under the dash. That seal wasn't leaking for me and most of you. you have to cut the cable once you get it out so you can pull the piston and reinsert it like a good boy with a special tool that does who knows what! Then you need a separate kit to reconnect a cable to the brake pedal. So if you got the nerve to do open heart surgery and that's what it's like, to save money spending only $25 for a kit instead of about $150 for labor and an avg. of $150 for the part: then do it. I'll talk you through it.

  14. #14
    Not just a truck... a project. chefmike's Avatar
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    I was in Asheville a few weeks ago and stopped in at MBM, the company that makes the rebuild kit. Really nice folks. They were totally happy to sell a kit over the counter, so if any of you all are looking that direction, give them a call.
    1995 Suburban 2500 2wd 200k 3.73 gears Vin F, bumper FSD, Bosch (India) Injectors, bosch duratherms, 3" banks Exhaust (thanks Ferm!). guages on the pillar. vacuum boost. AC/Delco fuel pump, economy/ daily driver chip from a buddy. Fresh fan clutch and duramax fan. Various leaks. Crappy paint job.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chefmike View Post
    I was in Asheville a few weeks ago and stopped in at MBM, the company that makes the rebuild kit. Really nice folks. They were totally happy to sell a kit over the counter, so if any of you all are looking that direction, give them a call.
    yeah and he even called me back to tell me how to make a special tool too put the final spring retainer on in the front!! couldn't have done it with out it.

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